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    #31
    oh yea, my head bolts i should replace correct? they look fine but there a one time use is that right? should i replace with say apr bolts? or what should i replace it with and how much does it matter

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      #32
      I've used both bolts but I'm not making silly power. The only way to accurately determine if the bolts are re-usable is to use a stretch gauge. I know of people that have re-used the bolts and haven't had any issues. I don't like digging in to the engine, so I usually buy the bolts from MSM or ARP.

      Gaskets seem to be a matter of brand loyalty. I prefer Felpro or whatever the OEM spec is. Again, I've heard of people using the ebay gaskets w/o any issues.

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        #33
        alright, is there any way to check if they have streched with household tools?? also i decided to take apart my lifters to clean em and oil them. not all of the contacts on the lifters are at the same height if that makes sense. some have more spring travel then others. is that bad?

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          #34
          how much worse would say this one be http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-89...Q5fAccessories

          compared to a felpro set. running about 18 pounds on a vj-14 vj-9 hybrid should i be alright? and how much more could i throw at it?

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            #35
            Couldn't tell ya. Your setup is far different from mine. I'm just trying to keep mine running so I can continue autocrossing and doing the odd, midnight drive on the mountain.

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              #36
              Go to a Kia dealer and get the head bolts from the 95 Sephia with the 1.8L. The part # starts with B660-xx-xxxO IIRC. or get the ARP's...your best choices. Seeing that you have issues with a head gasket you should start with a good baseline.
              Clay

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                #37
                Originally posted by azgtx View Post
                Go to a Kia dealer and get the head bolts from the 95 Sephia with the 1.8L. The part # starts with B660-xx-xxxO IIRC. or get the ARP's...your best choices. Seeing that you have issues with a head gasket you should start with a good baseline.
                Clay
                alright, i will give kia a call. i appreciate it. as far as the gasket would the amauto ones work fine from ebay? or is it worth it to spend an extra 100 bucks and get a felpro set from a auto parts store.

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                  #38
                  just reading the manual it says check for movement in the HLA by pushing it during disassembly. right after it says if the HLA moves replace the HLA. what? shouldnt it be able to move, thats why there is a spring in there right? if it does not move there will be a gap between the cam and that would end up causing the ticking?? why does it say if it moves replace it? very confusing, as far as the head bolts i dont know if i want to spend a hundo on new ones...

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by g3mccotter View Post
                    just reading the manual it says check for movement in the HLA by pushing it during disassembly. right after it says if the HLA moves replace the HLA. what? shouldnt it be able to move, thats why there is a spring in there right? if it does not move there will be a gap between the cam and that would end up causing the ticking?? why does it say if it moves replace it? very confusing, as far as the head bolts i dont know if i want to spend a hundo on new ones...
                    Yep, that is correct. The HLAs get pumped up with oil, they fill the void at the valve and cam lobe. If you are able to compress them by hand, you can either replace them ($$$) or try your luck and clean them. The theory is that the HLAs operate like a one-way check valve, with very tight tolerances. The tolerances will / should keep the oil trapped and the hla pressurized.
                    Did you not read the links I posted?

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by BFMRGTX View Post
                      Yep, that is correct. The HLAs get pumped up with oil, they fill the void at the valve and cam lobe. If you are able to compress them by hand, you can either replace them ($$$) or try your luck and clean them. The theory is that the HLAs operate like a one-way check valve, with very tight tolerances. The tolerances will / should keep the oil trapped and the hla pressurized.
                      Did you not read the links I posted?
                      no i read the links posted. just got done cleaning em, soaking in brake clean after taken apart and oiled back up and put back together. there back together now and i can move the hla with my hand. the manual says if you can replace it?

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                        #41
                        It's been a long time since I've had to do mine (1995, If I recall), but I remember disassembling them, cleaning them in some solvent (I actually think I soaked them in an ultrasonic tank), re-assembling them, then soaking them in a coffee can full of fresh oil. I took each one, submerged in the oil, and squeezed them until they purged the air / solvent. I recall them being stiff after. I installed them immediately and they ticked for a little while, but after a few short drives to work, they quieted down.

                        Give that a shot; if they are still noisy after a while (maybe change to a different weight of oil?) then you might need to source some lifters from Kia, or try your luck at a junkyard: Miata, Capri, etc. etc. Maybe someone here on this forum has some to sell. I know that there's a few people parting out some GTXs on the yahoo forum at the moment.

                        Good Luck.
                        Last edited by BFMRGTX; 05-19-2010, 05:27 PM.

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by BFMRGTX View Post
                          It's been a long time since I've had to do mine (1995, If I recall), but I remember disassembling them, cleaning them in some solvent (I actually think I soaked them in an ultrasonic tank), re-assembling them, then soaking them in a coffee can full of fresh oil. I took each one, submerged in the oil, and squeezed them until they purged the air / solvent. I recall them being stiff after. I installed them immediately and they ticked for a little while, but after a few short drives to work, they quieted down.

                          Give that a shot; if they are still noisy after a while (maybe change to a different weight of oil?) then you might need to source some lifters from Kia, or try your luck at a junkyard: Miata, Capri, etc. etc. Maybe someone here on this forum has some to sell. I know that there's a few people parting out some GTXs on the yahoo forum at the moment.

                          Good Luck.

                          i already took them apart let them soak in brake clean and then lubed up all the interior with mobil 1. there just sitting on the table now though, have not been put back in yet. prob drop them in some oil before i re install... can i re use the two little caps that hold the valves and springs down? the things i had to take off to release the valve? not sure if im going to get a gakset set and even if i do i dont know if it comes with most of em.

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                            #43
                            what are the cars i can get a rear bench out of that will bolt up to my gtx?

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by g3mccotter View Post
                              what are the cars i can get a rear bench out of that will bolt up to my gtx?
                              BF mercury tracer

                              for the HLA's, after cleaning them they will still be squishy. once installed and run in the engine for several miniutes and a quick drive they should pressurize and quiet down.
                              "See that car, in the 80's that car was deadly." Random man to his son while passing the GTX in a parking lot

                              Originally posted by neuspeedescort
                              the proper spelling would be "Launchabilitiness" i do believe.
                              -88' Mazda 323 GTX, 1.8t, Modified Magazine May 2012
                              -88' Mazda 323 GTX, caged and ready for dirt
                              -93' Mazda Miata, half caged
                              -09' Mercedes C63 AMG
                              -87' Toyota Land Cruiser, 33's with slight lift, safari style!

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                                #45
                                For the tracer rear bench.. the colors will be off and i believe you'll have to trim the foam down a bit to get it to sit right. I'm not sure how much it would be to ship but i have a couple spares if you want one. What's wrong with yours?

                                1988 White GTX - #1 parts
                                1988 Black GTX - #2 reliably broken touge monstar (294,000 miles no rebuilds) - dead
                                1988 Blue GTX - #3 in progress (view here)
                                1988 Blue GTX - #4 BPT swapped weekend warrior.
                                1988 White GTX - #5 Rally car

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