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    Power Steering Fluid Change, BJ

    There is no service interval listed for changing the power steering (PS) fluid in the FSM. Apparently Mazda feels that the factory fill, with perhaps occasional top-ups, is good for the life of the car. That's unconscionable, IMO. Although operating conditions in an A/T are much more severe than those in a PS system, even in the latter the ATF fluid will turn black and degrade over time. Furthermore, there's no easy way to drain the fluid (no drain plug, for example) other than perhaps going under the vehicle and disconnecting a line. Additionally, if enough fluid is drained from the sysytem it will become air bound and must be bled. Not that air bleeding is difficult to accomplish, simply that it's another step that would have to be carried out.

    I therefore tried to developed an alternate way to change the PS fluid that allowed me to remain up top, stay clean, and avoid the necessity to bleed the system.

    The FSM specifies ATF M-III or equivalent (e.g. Dexron III) as the correct replacement fluid. Do not use power steering fluid in the Mazda PS system as it may cause damage. The capacity is 1.1 US quarts (1.0 Liter).

    I chose Red Line D4 ATF as the correct 100% synthetic replacement fluid. Like all Red Line products it is ester based. Printed on the label is the following statement, "Red Line D4 ATF can be used in power steering units which require Dexron III, Dexron II or Mercon fluids ...".

    Materials
    Measuring Cup: mine is a Pyrex with a capacity of 16 oz (500 ml) with graduations in both ounces and milliliters.

    Syringe: the type used to add distilled water to a battery (US $7 at Strauss Auto).

    Red Line D4 ATF: 2 quarts (2 x .946 liters) @ US $9.95 + .70 state theft/quart for a total of US $21.30 at my local speed shop.

    Proceedure
    After a run with the PS fluid well-circulated, shut off the engine, remove the PS reservoir cap and then remove the strainer/filter by inserting a finger into it and gently pulling upward. Putting it aside in a safe, secure place, locate the Pyrex measuring cup against the shock tower so it's conveniently close to the reservoir.

    Squeeze the bulb of the syringe and insert its tube into the reservoir, withdraw some fluid and empty it into the Pyrex cup. Repeat until 8 oz (250 ml) has been collected. This constitutes about 1/4 of the total fluid in the system yet still leaves enough in place so that air cannot enter. I couldn't judge the condition of the the fluid looking into the reservoir but the removed fluid in the Pyrex was completely black.

    Insert a funnel into the reservoir and add new ATF until it reaches the max line on the reservoir. Then, remove the funnel, replace the strainer and reservoir cap, remove the Pyrex from the engine compartment, and close the hood. The system now contains ~ 25% new fluid.

    The next step is to drive the car a sufficient distance that the new and old PS fluid will completely mix together and disperse throughout the system (I drove about 10 miles which I'm sure was more than enough). The synthetic fluid is completely compatible with the petroleum based one and they will readily intermix.

    Now, carry out the above proceedure three more times.

    At the second fluid removal from the 25% new/75% old mixture, the collected liquid in the Pyrex was less dark and actually had some hints of pink shot throughout. At the third fluid removal from the 50% new/50% old mixture, the collected liquid in the Pyrex definitely appeared toward the pink side and looked fairly clean. At the fourth fluid removal from the 75% new/25% old mixture, the collected liquid was quite pink and looked clean, almost as if it were new.

    After the fourth and final fluid removal, replenish it with new ATF up to the max line. The PS system should now consist mainly of 100% new synthetic fluid so I assume this process essentially accomplished my goal of complete fluid replacement. This completes the job.

    On the third refill, the D4 ATF container started to feel quite light, and considering that the total system capacity is a little more than one quart, I thought I might not have enough fluid to complete the fourth and final refill. Consequently, I drove out to the speed shop again and bought another quart. It was fortunate that I bought the second quart as I would have been slightly under max on the final refill without it. However, that leaves me with a lot of extra fluid so I may just drive around for about a week and then carry out another two removal/refills just to use up most of the remainder, as well as providing some additional system flushing.

    Driving Impressions
    Not too many at this point. Before I replaced the fluid, my PS system was in good shape and didn't seem to have any problems of which I was aware. The steering wheel does seem to turn more smoothly now and perhaps with somewhat less resistance than before. The smooth response also indicates that the method of fluid replacement I used did not allow air to enter the system. With the synthetic fluid I would also expect that temperature extremes will have less of a negative impact on steering response. We shall see.

    Happy Motoring!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by goldstar; 06-22-2011, 03:07 PM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    #2
    Finishing Touches

    Having almost one quart of the second container of the Red Line ATF D4 remaining, I decided to make use of it instead of letting it go to waste. Consequently, I did the 8 oz drain and refill two more times (this would be numbers 5 and 6). After the 4th refill, presumably the PS system contained all new fluid and I was curious to see what a sample drawn from it would look like - something I could ascertain the 5th time around. I'm happy to report that both the 5th and 6th samples looked identical - indistinguishable from new fluid fresh from the D4 container.

    I think I can say, without steering anyone wrong, that apparently the method I used was successful in bringing about a complete fluid exchange in the system.

    The remainder of the D4 I can use for top-ups should they ever be required, although I've never yet had to add PS fluid since I bought the car.

    Happy Motoring!
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #3
      Excellent writeup as usual, goldstar. I think you just gave me a weekend project once I get a non-rainy weekend. One question, though: after you did the remove/replace step, why did you drive the car? Shouldn't it be enough to just turn the wheel lock to lock for a couple of minutes? Or are you just one of those really thorough types?
      1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

      Next up: Speed6 or RX-8

      Comment


        #4
        Thank you for your kind words. You pose a good question. It's quite possible that just turning the wheel lock-to-lock several times (with the engine running) would have dispersed and mixed the new fluid throughout the system without having to actually drive the car. However, after drawing the first 8 ozs from the system and noting how black and dirty the fluid appeared, I thought it would be a good idea to try to flush the system after each new refill. Consequently, by driving the car for awhile I assumed that the new, synthetic fluid would have more time to recirculate throughout the system and perhaps do a more thorough cleaning job before the next drain and refill. I could be wrong but I figured it wouldn't hurt to give it a try.

        And yes, I guess I am one of those really thorough types although some have cruelly and hurtfully applied to me a somewhat harsher descriptive label.

        BTW, if you do use the steering wheel turning method after starting the engine and letting it idle, keep in mind the following caution specified in the FSM:
        If the steering wheel is kept in the fully turned position for more than 5 seconds, the fluid temperature will rise excessively and adversely affect the oil pump.

        Good luck with your project and let us know how it turns out.

        Happy Motoring!
        Last edited by goldstar; 05-14-2010, 08:57 AM.
        02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
        MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
        MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
        Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
        MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
        Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
        Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
        Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
        Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
        Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
        Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
        Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
        Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

        Comment


          #5
          Glad I found your post before I added power steering fluid I just bought to top off my reservoir.

          Comment


            #6
            Welcome to CP, peachgirl.

            I'm glad you found the write-up before adding the wrong fluid.

            Happy Motoring!
            02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
            MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
            MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
            Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
            MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
            Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
            Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
            Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
            Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
            Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
            Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
            Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
            Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for info. After you change 1/4 of fluid 4 times, you actually have around 30% old fluid remaining, and 70% new.

              Comment


                #8
                There is actually a better way to do this... It does take 2 people though...

                You suck out as much fluid as you can from the reservoir.... Disconnect the return line going to the reservoir and plug the reservoir... From there you attach a line to the return line and run it into a bucket... Fill up the reservoir and have a friend start the car... While its running have them move the steering wheel from lock to lock.. as its running it will pump the fluid out into the bucket.. you need to be ready with clean fluid and fill the reservoir as the old fluid is pumped out... This happens very quickly... Once you have run enough fluid threw have your friend shut the car off.. hook everything back up and top off the level...

                By doing it this way you have little to no dilution of new fluid and old fluid...

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by crazycanadian View Post
                  There is actually a better way to do this... It does take 2 people though...
                  No, your way is not a better way, just a different way. As I clearly stated in my OP, I did not want to disconnect any lines and I certainly did not want to use a helper. Doing it my way ensured that no air would enter the system requiring bleeding, and resulted in virtualy no contamination of the new fluid which looked clear and clean after I finished the process.

                  Happy Motoring!
                  02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                  MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                  MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                  Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                  MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                  Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                  Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                  Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                  Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                  Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                  Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                  Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                  Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have done power steering fluid changes both ways. The way crazycanadian describes is the best way to remove almost all of the old fluid, sort of like an unpowered flush. But it does take two people and there is the risk, if not done correctly.

                    Changing out the fluid 8 ounces at a time, for 4 times, is much easier and fairly effective. However, it only changes out about 68% of the fluid. Only the first 8 ounce change includes all old fluid. Each additional change also removes some of the new fluid, since the new has blended with the old. You would have to do this 8 times to have 90% of the fluid changed. The law of diminishing returns really sets in after 4 changes. But again, it is easy and these four changes are adding back not only clean fluid but any conditioners, etc. that may be depleted in the old fluid.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Well, I actually did the 8 oz drain and refill a total of 6-times. At the end, the system fluid looked identical to that of the remaining new fluid in the D4 container so I figured I'd gone far enough even if, in fact, total removal of the old fluid hadn't occured.

                      Happy Motoring!
                      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Excellent. 6 times gets you 82% replaced, which is very, very good. On my Honda's, I can siphon out about 16 of the 32 ounces in the system. After 50K miles on the Pilot, I did the flush method, which worked well, but I was very nervous doing this, especially with my wife as the helper (a little communication disconnect / different understanding of what "STOP" means). After this experience, on my Accord I did 2 changes, replacing about 70% - 75% of the old. I decided to do a single change every 24K miles on each vehicle - one bottle each. Simple, effective and easy on me and my family.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Sounds like a good method you developed. Thanks for the fluid exchange data. It's good to know how much of my PS fluid actually got replaced utilizing my method.

                          And welcome to the forum, BTW.

                          Happy Motoring!
                          02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                          MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                          MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                          Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                          MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                          Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                          Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                          Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                          Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                          Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                          Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                          Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                          Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by crazycanadian View Post
                            There is actually a better way to do this... It does take 2 people though...

                            You suck out as much fluid as you can from the reservoir.... Disconnect the return line going to the reservoir and plug the reservoir... From there you attach a line to the return line and run it into a bucket... Fill up the reservoir and have a friend start the car... While its running have them move the steering wheel from lock to lock.. as its running it will pump the fluid out into the bucket.. you need to be ready with clean fluid and fill the reservoir as the old fluid is pumped out... This happens very quickly... Once you have run enough fluid threw have your friend shut the car off.. hook everything back up and top off the level...

                            By doing it this way you have little to no dilution of new fluid and old fluid...
                            This is the way I have always done it as well. There is a risk of burning up the p/s pump, but you just have to be extremely quick! Before the helper starts the car, I'd be pouring in p/s fluid just to keep it full. I saw another way similiar to this method, but with a lot less risk. I believe it was on the tv show "two mens garage", but I am not quite sure. I never turned the steering wheel as the fluid was being flushed though.

                            As for bleeding the p/s system, its very easy... Raise the front wheels off the ground, and turn the wheel back and forth, but make sure its not lock to lock!!! Once all the bubbles dissipate then you are good to go! Driver it around the block and re-check the fluid. Air in the p/s system is not much different then air in the coolant sytem or brake system.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Since the issue has been raised, here is the correct way to air bleed the
                              Power Steering System, from the FSM:
                              1. Inspect the fluid level.
                              2. Jack up the front of the vehicle and place on jack stands.
                              3.Turn the steering wheel fully to the left and right several times with the engine not running.
                              4. Reinspect the fluid level; add fluid if necessary.
                              5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 until the fluid level stabilizes.
                              6. Return the vehicle to ground, start the engine, and let it idle.
                              7. Turn the steering wheel fully to the left and right several times.
                              8. Verify that the fluid is not foamy and that the fluid level has not dropped; add fluid as necessary and repeat steps 7 and 8.

                              Happy Motoring!
                              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                              Comment

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