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    Mazda Engine Coolants

    I recently drained, flushed and replaced the engine coolant. In my car, according to the FSM, coolant replacement is called for after the first 45,000 miles (72,000 km) or 36 months; then every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 24 months. As there are many different types of coolant, before replacement I researched the type of coolant recommended for use in Mazda engines. I found some useful information on two forum discussions: one on bobistheoilguy's website (apparently, bobisthecoolantguy also) that can be accessed at:


    The other on miata.net at:


    The following material is excerpted from those discussions and represents the statements made by the threads' posters.

    Prior to the 2005 model year, Mazdas were equipped with a first generation P-OAT (Phosphated Organic Acid Technology) coolant develped and manufactured by CCI, the leading Japanese coolant company. P-OAT coolants rely on a combination of phosphates and organic acids to prevent corrosion; they contain no silicates or borates. Japanese engine manufacturers believe silicates and borates are undesirable because of their abrasiveness (they can attack water pump seals, for example) and they are less effective in fighting corrosion than phosphates. The other major Japanese automakers, Honda, Nissan and Toyota all use essentially the same coolant technology.

    Mazda sells this coolant as: Genuine Mazda Long Life Coolant. According to the labels on the container, its ingredients are Ethylene Glycol, Diethylene Glycol, Water, Sodium Benzoate and Potassium Hydroxide. It meets ASTM spec D-3306. It is a concentrate and Mazda recommends a 50/50 mixture of Mazda Long Life Coolant and demineralized water for year round protection. The part number is 0000-77-501E-02.

    The current cost of one gallon at my dealer is US $21.58 + $1.52 state theft for a total of US $23.10.

    Because there are several different types of coolant, specific product information is not always easy to come by (some ingredients can be legally hidden as proprietary information), and the wrong choice of coolant can actually harm the engine or render the factory fill less effective, I decided to go with the genuine Mazda stuff since it's made specifically for our engines. I'll also use it for future top-ups as necessary to maintain the purity of the fluid.

    In the 2005 model year, Mazda started using a second generation coolant which has a lower concentration of phosphates and an improved organic acid additive package. This in fact may be a P-HOAT formulation in which the H signifies hybrid - that is, both organic and inorganic acids are used as additives to improve corrosion resistance and further extend the life of the coolant. This is an ethylene glycol based, premixed (I believe 55/45), longer-life coolant labeled "FL22." I believe it has the same ingredient makeup as the older Mazda fluid but not having a container in front of me I can't be sure. The part number is 0000-77-508E-20. To learn more about this product including a list of Mazdas that use FL22 as a factory fill, go to Technical Service Bulletin 01-033/07 available at:


    As can be seen in the TSB, Mazda3 and Mazdaspeed3 vehicles began using FL22 sometime during the 2008 model year and can be identified by the FL22 marking on the cooling system filler cap. The Mazda6 has used FL22 since 2006 and the Mazdaspeed6 since sometime during the 2007 model year. It's also clearly stated that older Mazdas not originally filled with FL22 can use FL22 as a replacement. If done, an FL22 sticker must be placed on the coolant tank signifying the change has been made (the dealer is mandated to do this). A thorough flush of the older coolant must be carried out and the two must never be mixed as even a small remainder will eliminate the FL22's extreme longevity properties.

    In the Mazda3 using FL22, according to the FSM, the interval before the first replacement is 10 years/120,000 miles (192,000 km) for an OEM factory fill in a new engine, and 5 years/60,000 miles (96,000 km) for subsequent replacement fills. In my wife's '06 3 that does not use FL22, coolant replacement is recommended after the first 60,000 miles (96,000 km) or 4 years; then every 2 years. In terms of replacing our present coolant with FL22, what I'm not sure of is whether "older Mazdas" means those dating from 2004 or if it also includes Proteges back to the 1st Gen? As before, FL22 is very similar to extended life coolants used in other Japanese vehicles.

    According to the forum discussions, until recently the only source of P-OAT (or P-HOAT) replacement coolant for Japanese cars was the dealer. However, CCI, the Japanese company that originally developed the P-OAT chemistry, also has a large presence in the US where it is a leading contract coolant manufacturer. In addition to making the Japanese OEM coolants, they also manufacture Peak, Zerex, Motorcraft and most private label coolants including conventional green North American coolant. For an overview of CCI, go to:


    Again, referring to the bob forum, the claim is made that Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant is identical to FL22. I can't, and don't wish to, verify this so if you're interested in using it as an alternative to OEM, check it out for yourself.

    Finally, mention is made of Zerex Asian Vehicle Antifreeze/Coolant as a viable aftermarket alternative that meets the long-life coolant specifications of Asian vehicles. Manufactured by CCI, this premixed with demineralized water coolant has a 5 year/150,000 mile guarantee, is recommended for all Asian vehicles, is compatible with Asian coolants and cooling systems, and is silicate-free. It's said to have a P-HOAT formulation. More information available at:
    Zerex G05 from Valvoline is the #1 selling OEM-approved coolant brand. Zerex G05 Antifreeze/Coolant is proven to maximize engine life in newer Ford, Chrysler and Mercedes-Benz cars, light trucks and heavy-duty vehicles. Suitable for both gasoline and diesel engines, its original long-life chemistry is specially formulated with the highest quality virgin ethylene glycol and Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). Zerex is made for your car and protects better than industry standards against corrosion, leaking, deposits as well as freezing and boiling – the four main causes of cooling system failure, which is the leading cause of engine breakdown. So whether you’re topping off your radiator or doing a complete system flush, trust Zerex to help your engine keep its cool.



    This might be a product worth looking into as an alternative to OEM.

    For myself, I think I'll stick with OEM; it's so much simpler.

    Happy Motoring!
    Last edited by goldstar; 12-15-2012, 05:20 PM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
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    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
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    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
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    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
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    #2
    First off, another excellent write up goldstar. Thank you for stressing the importance of regular cooling system maintenance. It seems to be one of the more neglected parts of regular automotive maintenance; until it goes catastrophically wrong, that is. Then people pay attention to it. I should know; my ex let her coolant go for about 8 years without having it changed, and it then began to dissolve her radiator. Which I then got to replace, because I'm the mechanic.

    I can also report that Peak Extended Life can be used as a viable alternative to Mazda factory coolant with no untoward side effects. It has almost, if not exactly, the same formulation as Mazda's coolant, near as I can tell. I've had it in my car for about two years now, and it's performing nicely. No leaks to report, temp stays normal, and the coolant still looks clean. Despite it's claims of 5 years/150k miles, however, I think it will get changed out this fall, just to be on the safe side. I get wary when any manufacturer starts throwing around numbers like that. Probably just me being paranoid, but a premature coolant flush is a lot less costly than a new radiator or water pump. Or head gaskets, or head, or....
    1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

    Next up: Speed6 or RX-8

    Comment


      #3
      Your welcome.

      Originally posted by 1Mazda323Fan View Post
      I can also report that Peak Extended Life can be used as a viable alternative to Mazda factory coolant with no untoward side effects. It has almost, if not exactly, the same formulation as Mazda's coolant, near as I can tell. I've had it in my car for about two years now, and it's performing nicely. No leaks to report, temp stays normal, and the coolant still looks clean.
      It's good to know that you found another suitable replacement for the OEM coolant. The more choices we have, the better. Thank you for posting.

      Happy Motoring!
      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

      Comment


        #4
        I've found the red Toyota facory coolant to be all that and then some. No sign of corrosion and almost as good as straight water for cooling. My mechanic guru uses it in all his rigs. Very similar, no doubt, to the above mentioned mazda longlife stuff.
        '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
        '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
        http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
        http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jay View Post
          almost as good as straight water for cooling
          wat? 100% water works better than 50%water 50% ethylene glycol?
          sigpic

          Comment


            #6
            Nothing works better'n 100% water for carrying away heat.
            It does have its drawbacks though, thus the need for coolant that doesn't boil or freeze.
            '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
            '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
            http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
            http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

            Comment


              #7
              goldstar: You're welcome as well. Peak also has the added benefit of costing $10-$12 a gallon, at least from what I've seen in parts stores in my area. I'm sure this will vary according to location. And you can still buy it undiluted, shockingly enough.

              me19875: jay's right. Back in the earliest days of motoring, straight water was used as the cooling medium. That's why we call it a 'water pump', after all. All of the other stuff in modern coolant helps to raise the boiling point (this is also why the system's under pressure) and lower the freezing point, and also to act as a lubricant and rust inhibitor.
              1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

              Next up: Speed6 or RX-8

              Comment


                #8
                I'll be sure to refer back to this thread for when it is time to replace my coolant. I typically grab the prestone 50/50 premixed stuff from my local parts store. That is what I have always used and it seems to work well. The only reason I have not made any switch is so that I am not mixing coolant types.
                I live my life a quarter pounder at a time. And for those 500 calories or more, I'm free. I need FRIES! Two of them. The big ones. Oh, and I need them tonight. You're lucky the double shot of BBQ sauce didn't blow the seam on your nugget box. There she is, 2 pounds of pure beef. My dad ate it in 9.0 seconds flat. Check it out, it's like this. If I lose, winner takes my happy meal. But if I win, I take the burger and the toy. To some people, that's more important.

                ._________________________
                |.....Overnight....................| ||
                |.....Japan Parts.................| |'|";,___.
                |_..._...____________======||_|_|...,]
                "(@)'(@)""'''''''''''''"'''"**|(@)(@)*****"(@)
                Oh and by the way that shot in your banner with Vin Diesel's car getting shot, thats a civic not an altezza.

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