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    Installed Stainless Steel Clutch Line

    Because our clutches are hydraulically actuated, it’s necessary to have a line (the FSM refers to this as the clutch pipe) connecting the clutch master cylinder, located near the firewall on the driver’s side, to the clutch release (slave) cylinder, located on the transmission housing. Because of the relative motion between engine/transmission and chassis, a section of the line must be made flexible to avoid breakage. Over time and with continuous use, it has been said that this OEM rubber line can undergo volumetric expansion causing the line to swell and expand leading to clutch pedal fade. This could result in loss of precision in regulating clutch operation with the pedal and in extreme cases, such as during rapid shifts, prevent the clutch from fully disengaging before the lever is moved. Additionally, over time rubber is said to deteriorate due to exposure to ozone and is subject to damage or failure from road debris.

    To forestall these possible/potential problems, stainless steel clutch lines are available to replace the OEM product. These lines have an inner teflon core with an outer stainless steel braided wire covering. This construction makes them much more rigid than the rubber types and eliminates (or at least minimizes) the problem of volumetric expansion while still providing the necessary flexibility. Quite apart from the purported advantages of a more rigid line, the OEM part in my car is now ~ 8 years old and replacing it seems to be a wise preventive measure. I selected the Techna-Fit line (part # MACL-013) because it has a PVC covering over the stainless steel braid thus providing extra protection from abrasion and road debris. Zinc-plated steel fittings are permanently crimped on each end. Although I ordered the clear PVC covering, other colors (black, blue, red, smoke, and green) are also available. The Goodridge stainless steel clutch line also has a good reputation but it lacks the additional PVC covering. That was the deciding factor in my choice of the Techna-Fit.
    http://techna-fit.com/clutch.html

    The Techna-Fit listing for the 2001-2002 Protégé is in error and should read 2001-2003 (part # MACL-013). The line is also available for the 1999-2000 Protégé (part # MACL-012); 1993-1997 MX-6 (part # MACL-014); and the 1988-1989 323 (part # MACL-010) as well as some other Mazda models.

    I purchased my clutch line from Horsepower Freaks, Inc. for US $25 + $9.10 S & H for a total of US $34.10. Shipping was prompt and trouble free.
    http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com

    Techna-Fit stainless steel brake lines are also available but that’s a subject for another thread.

    In the next post I’ll cover the installation of the line.

    Happy Motoring!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by goldstar; 05-30-2011, 05:23 AM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    #2
    just for reference. pretty much every mazda uses the same stainless braided clutch line. just the ones ive swapped between are BP protege, v6 protege, mx3, 1st and 2nd gen probes, my 626gt, mazda6, escort gt, and a friends mazda3. all used the same one.
    ~PaTricK~


    -Current car's-
    ~ 92 Probe GT Turbo, 90 FE3 Turbo 626GT hatch, 97 KL mtx 626, 05 Mazda6, 09 Kia Sportage V6~
    What are you driving?

    Comment


      #3
      Installing the Line

      Tools and Materials
      8 mm box wrench
      10 mm flare nut wrench
      10 mm 3/8" drive flare nut crowfoot wrench
      17 mm flare nut wrench
      Torque wrench, 3/8" drive
      Bleeder hose
      Catch container, clear glass or plastic
      Brake fluid: type SAE J1703 or FMVSS 116 DOT3

      Procedure

      Installing the Line
      Locate the OEM rubber clutch line. One end is anchored to a bracket on the transmission housing where it's connected to the rigid clutch pipe leading to the clutch release (slave) cylinder. The other end is anchored to a bracket on the chassis and connected to the rigid clutch pipe leading to the clutch master cylinder mounted near the firewall. It can easily be viewed by standing in front of the car and looking down into the engine compartment behind the air intake snorkel. I decided to remove the OEM line and replace it with the Techna-Fit by working from the top of the car and reaching down; removing the snorkel and the air box greatly improves access. Remove the clutch pipe fitting nuts with the 10 mm flare wrench. Alternatively, one could work up from underneath the car by lifting it and removing the driver's side splash shield.

      Before beginning disassembly, the FSM states the fluid should be removed from the reservoir with a pump or syringe. The reservoir, also located near the firewall, is common to both the brake and clutch hydraulic systems but the master cylinders are separate. Alternatively, after disconnecting the OEM line at the transmission end (which is lower), direct the stream into a catch container, although some will spill on the transmission housing. After evacuation of the fluid, disconnect the chassis end of the OEM line and remove it. I followed the latter method.

      Fit the new stainless steel line end fittings into the brackets and connect the clutch pipes at each end. The FSM calls for a torque setting for all the clutch pipe nuts of 113-190 in/lbs (12.8-27.5 Nm); this value converts to 9.4-15.8 ft/lbs. To accomplish this requires use of the 10 mm crowfoot flare wrench fitted to the torque wrench. Mazda has a neat factory tool for this job listed in the FSM - a double-ended flare nut wrench with a center recess for a ratchet drive. This is one of Mazda's SSTs. The part # is 49 0259 770B. As usual, I used a torque setting ~ midway in the range, 13 ft/lbs.

      AS the FSM notes, using the crowfoot wrench or the SST increases the actual length of the torque wrench requiring the use of a torque adjustment formula to obtain the correct setting. Such a formula can be found in the General Information section of the FSM and I'll repeat it here for those who don't have access to that reference:
      Adjusted Torque Setting = ft/lbs x [L/L+A]

      where,
      L = length of torque wrench
      A = length of crowfoot wrench or SST, center-to-center

      However, in this case the additional C-to-C length of the 10 mm crowfoot is so minor compared with the torque wrench length (roughly .5" to 15" using my setup), that no adjustment is really necessary.

      Most probably, an experienced wrencher using an appropriate degree of judgement could snug up the line satifactorily without using a torque wrench.

      Fluid Replacement and Bleeding
      The FSM states:
      Do not mix different brands of fluid.
      Do not reuse drained clutch fluid

      After the stainless steel line is in place, follow the clutch pipe along the transmission until it terminates in a banjo fitting. This is where it connects to the clutch slave cylinder. Note the rubber cap covered fitting on the slave cylinder - this is the bleeder valve. Removing the cap allows access to it using the 8 mm box wrench. Following the FSM instructions, I attached a hose to the bleeder valve and placed the other end of the hose in a clear glass jar. I had a friend help me - he sat in the car and operated the clutch pedal while I maintained the fluid level in the reservoir and operated the bleeder valve. The clutch pedal has to be slowly pumped several times and then while holding it depressed, the bleeder has to be opened to let the fluid escape. Then, the bleeder is closed and the process repeated until only clear, bubble-free fluid can be seen. In between, the fluid level in the reservoir has to be maintained. Use caution in tightening the bleeder as the torque setting is only 53-78 in/lbs (5.9-8.8 Nm); this value converts to 4.4-6.5 ft/lbs. Remember to replace the rubber cap. Complete the job by topping up the fluid level in the reservoir to the MAX line.

      Replace the air box and snorkel and congratulate yourself on a job well done.

      Driving impressions will follow.

      Happy Motoring!

      Photo 1: The OEM rubber clutch line after removal.

      Photo 2 and 3: Two views of the OEM clutch line on the car.

      Photo 4: The installed Techna-Fit clutch line.

      Photo 5: Clutch pipe banjo connection to slave cylinder, and bleeder valve with rubber cap in place
      Attached Files
      Last edited by goldstar; 05-25-2011, 09:57 PM.
      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

      Comment


        #4
        Nice pictures and write up as always Mike.
        The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

        Comment


          #5
          Very nice. I'm sure this will come in useful to someone. I wish I had a clutch in my car if you know what I'm saying. lol
          -Steve

          94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
          VF10 powered!
          262 Whp & 257 Wtq
          13.1@107

          '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for your kind words.

            Happy Motoring!
            02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
            MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
            MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
            Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
            MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
            Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
            Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
            Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
            Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
            Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
            Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
            Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
            Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

            Comment


              #7
              Road Test

              This is one mod in which at least one positive benefit was immediately apparent and easily identifiable. Driving the car for the first time after the line change, the clutch pedal required noticeably more force to depress - the effect was quite pronounced - not at all subtle. This suggests that indeed the OEM line was undergoing volumetric expansion in which some of the hydraulic pressure was being wasted in expanding the line instead of its full force being directed to clutch disengagement. Whether the OEM line was always like this due to its rubber construction, or developed this tendency over time, I really can't say as naturally it's impossible for me to recall clutch pedal feel eight years ago when the car was new.

              As someone who has only owned M/T cars throughout my lifetime (so far), I'm pretty good at clutching, double clutching, shifting and coordinating the movements needed to produce smooth take offs and shifts whether starting on an upgrade, a downgrade, or moving out fast or slow either on wet or dry surfaces, as you might expect from long experience alone. In connection with this, a second advantage I found with the new line is that there now seems to be a more direct connection between pedal movement and clutch operation leading to an ability to regulate the clutch more precisely over varying driving requirements.

              There have been times when engaging in fast shifting, and I would slam the clutch pedal down and move the stick rapidly into the next gear, that I'd get resistance (along with an audible clunk) from the synchros. I usually attributed this to my failure to fully disengage the clutch before calling on the synchros to act. I'm now considering the idea that although I depressed the clutch pedal to its limit of travel, the tendency for the fluid to expand the line may have lengthened the amount of time required for the full hydraulic force to be applied to the clutch release lever, thus preventing the clutch from being fully released before the stick was moved. If this analysis is correct, the new stainless steel line should provide an additional benefit in enabling faster, smoother shifts without stressing the synchros.

              To put this idea to the test, I deliberately carried out some fast shifting to try to provoke the synchros. Although the shifting went smoothly, the tests were hardly conclusive in that even when the OEM rubber line was in place fast shifting didn't always cause problems. Obviously, more testing will be required on my part, beyond the limited time I had available for this first road test, before I can come to any conclusion. I'll certainly keep you posted as I acquire more experience in this area.

              One additional area I'd like to investigate is whether clutch operation will be improved in stop and start and slow speed driving. I would anticipate that with the ability to regulate clutch action more precisely, this kind of driving may prove to be less of a chore. When I have the misfortune to be caught in the next traffic jam, you can be sure I'll report back to you.

              Conclusion
              So far I like the improved feel of the clutch and consider this mod very worthwhile. I expect my overall satisfaction will increase over time as I come to experience the full range of benefits from the change. Also to be considered is the disaster prevention value in replacing an 8-year old hydraulic line. The price certainly seems right considering the relatively moderate cost of the line and some brake fluid.

              Happy Motoring!
              Last edited by goldstar; 07-30-2010, 06:55 AM.
              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

              Comment


                #8
                Very thorough Mike and I look forward to your further updates.
                The preventative care exercised could have saved you a lot more than the cost of some brake fluid and a hydraulic line. Did you also consider the possibility of needing towing service in the unfortunate event of hydraulic line failure? It leads me to wonder what the actual life expectancy of the OEM hydraulic lines. Typically industrial equipment and machinery have (from my experience) an estimated life expectancy for certain wear items such as valves, belts and hoses. I don't see a automobile as being much different than a machine with smooth edges.
                I live my life a quarter pounder at a time. And for those 500 calories or more, I'm free. I need FRIES! Two of them. The big ones. Oh, and I need them tonight. You're lucky the double shot of BBQ sauce didn't blow the seam on your nugget box. There she is, 2 pounds of pure beef. My dad ate it in 9.0 seconds flat. Check it out, it's like this. If I lose, winner takes my happy meal. But if I win, I take the burger and the toy. To some people, that's more important.

                ._________________________
                |.....Overnight....................| ||
                |.....Japan Parts.................| |'|";,___.
                |_..._...____________======||_|_|...,]
                "(@)'(@)""'''''''''''''"'''"**|(@)(@)*****"(@)
                Oh and by the way that shot in your banner with Vin Diesel's car getting shot, thats a civic not an altezza.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks Nate.

                  You're right, of course, and you make some important points. Hydraulic line failure on the road could be a major problem considering that towing would most likely be involved. I'd hate to have it happen when my family and I are hundreds of miles from home on one of our summer vacations.

                  The fact that, as you point out, items such as hydraulic hoses have an estimated life expectancy in the industrial world suggests that perhaps we ought to consider routine replacement of our lines just as in the case of recommended timing belt replacement intervals.

                  This makes me think that I also ought to replace my brake lines with stainless steel versions as a preventive measure. This would also have the serendipitous effect of providing a minor brake upgrade without actually changing discs or pads.

                  Happy Motoring!
                  02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                  MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                  MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                  Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                  MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                  Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                  Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                  Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                  Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                  Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                  Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                  Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                  Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yeah, the rubber on the flexible brake lines tends to get in pretty bad shape after a while. I plan on replacing mine in the near future.
                    -Steve

                    94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
                    VF10 powered!
                    262 Whp & 257 Wtq
                    13.1@107

                    '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

                    Comment


                      #11
                      mike baxter (MBX motorsports) sells the coated clutch lines for $25 shipped last i knew also. thats who i have bought all mine from.
                      ~PaTricK~


                      -Current car's-
                      ~ 92 Probe GT Turbo, 90 FE3 Turbo 626GT hatch, 97 KL mtx 626, 05 Mazda6, 09 Kia Sportage V6~
                      What are you driving?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Mike, when I replaced my brake lines with stainless braided, I was able to feel a more direct connection to the car through my foot. One thing I recommend from my experience is that to make sure you use all new crush washers on both sides of the banjo bolts. They will provide the adequate seal to keep fluid from leaking out over time. Crush washers are a replace item every time they're taken apart.
                        I live my life a quarter pounder at a time. And for those 500 calories or more, I'm free. I need FRIES! Two of them. The big ones. Oh, and I need them tonight. You're lucky the double shot of BBQ sauce didn't blow the seam on your nugget box. There she is, 2 pounds of pure beef. My dad ate it in 9.0 seconds flat. Check it out, it's like this. If I lose, winner takes my happy meal. But if I win, I take the burger and the toy. To some people, that's more important.

                        ._________________________
                        |.....Overnight....................| ||
                        |.....Japan Parts.................| |'|";,___.
                        |_..._...____________======||_|_|...,]
                        "(@)'(@)""'''''''''''''"'''"**|(@)(@)*****"(@)
                        Oh and by the way that shot in your banner with Vin Diesel's car getting shot, thats a civic not an altezza.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          i know the ones MBX sells include brand new copper washers.
                          ~PaTricK~


                          -Current car's-
                          ~ 92 Probe GT Turbo, 90 FE3 Turbo 626GT hatch, 97 KL mtx 626, 05 Mazda6, 09 Kia Sportage V6~
                          What are you driving?

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by wheresthericego View Post
                            Mike, when I replaced my brake lines with stainless braided, I was able to feel a more direct connection to the car through my foot. One thing I recommend from my experience is that to make sure you use all new crush washers on both sides of the banjo bolts. They will provide the adequate seal to keep fluid from leaking out over time. Crush washers are a replace item every time they're taken apart.
                            Nate, it's good to know that replacing the brake lines with the braided stainless has the same positive effect as that noticed from the clutch line replacement. Now more than ever I'd like to replace my own lines. Also, good information about replacing the banjo bolt fitting crush washers.

                            Originally posted by monoxidechild View Post
                            mike baxter (MBX motorsports) sells the coated clutch lines for $25 shipped last i knew also. thats who i have bought all mine from.
                            Originally posted by monoxidechild View Post
                            i know the ones MBX sells include brand new copper washers.
                            monoxidechild, thanks for providing us with an alternate vendor. It's good to have several sources available. However, I couldn't find a website for MBX Motorsports. Perhaps you could provide a link for those who might want to avail themselves of that choice?

                            Happy Motoring!
                            02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                            MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                            MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                            Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                            MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                            Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                            Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                            Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                            Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                            Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                            Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                            Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                            Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                            Comment


                              #15
                              i have also experienced greatly improved clutch and brake feel when swapping to stainless braided lines. in my case i owned two escorts at the time - one completely stock, one with the upgraded lines (my turbo escort). both had good pads/rotors/fluid/etc, but the difference driving them back to back was like night and day.
                              Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
                              ... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
                              Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts

                              Comment

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