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Turning 626 GT into an AWD

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    #31
    That sucks, man...
    '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
    '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
    http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

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      #32
      Okay, almost exactly one year after last post, some progress! It's been tough times with unemployment and all, and the sheer size of the mazda renovation is sumply disheartening. The regulation exempt application hasn't filed in yet either, BUT! I have a cunning plan. I'm going to restore much of the car before applying, using it as one of the reasons to do the swap; the original AWD will be in much worse shape.

      What I've achieved in a few days are baby steps, but very important baby steps, it's the first time I'm doing complex compound shapes in repair patches. Here's a couple of shots of the progress.


      This is the new flange for the front rail end and bumper mount box. The L-shape was achieved with a brake, the S-curve was done with a variety of hammers and dollies (including a half rotten bit of 2x4 timber).


      The replacement panel for the frame rail was similarily beaten from flat stock. The time to beat this panel was few hours. After welding on it bulged out a little, but nothing too much.


      Finally, the new panels for bumper mount box were beaten and welded on. The panel had to be made in two parts, as the original metal had rotten away and I had no pattern to work from, and the shape got a bit too complex. There are some horrible welds, it was a windy day (I'm doing this in a tarp tent) so all the bad welds need to be ground out and fixed. Again, used tools were three different hammers, two different dollies and a stump of wood.

      Not much to look at, but as a learning experience on how to beat panels it has been absolutely invaluable. I'm hoping the enthusiasm will carry through the summer, If all goes well I'm certain to have at least a rolling chassis by fall.
      Last edited by STW; 05-04-2012, 05:35 PM. Reason: link fix'd

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        #33
        I had the subframe sandblasted, what a sorry piece of mangled steel it is... It's almost as if it's designed to rust away.


        Here's a few detail shots of the car cancer. Doesn't look good.


        To create a proper edge on which to weld I cleaned up the ragged holes.


        I found some softer sheet that is easier to form into the complex shapes. The last one was a bit too difficult to hammer into final shape so the shape was finalized in situ


        Perhaps not the prettiest metal work but I'm sure it's up to the job. I'm going to weld the outer edhes of the patch and the inner edges of the hole for strength. I't not the prettiest job but up to the task, I believe...

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          #34
          Might you be better off making a custom tubular subframe, fabricated from scratch?
          1991 Capri XR2 "GTXR2" BPT AWD Bastardization/conversion
          1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo AWD

          Creator of the B6T Rocketchip
          www.werbatfik.com

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            #35
            I have thought about a tubular subframe, and have one planned out too. However, the legal process for FWD -> AWD conversion is precarious at best, so it might not be a good idea to make too fancy changes at first. Perhaps later, after a few years. The repaired subframe is on borrowed time anyway, there are rust pockets that are impossible to get to unless by cutting the entire subframe to pieces.

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              #36
              And some more metalsmithing.


              It actually took quite a while to bang this piece into shape...


              Of course, some dressing was needed while welding the piece on. How much of the original steel will be left after I'm done with the subframe, I wonder...

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                #37
                my god that subframe is a rotbox. im sorry to see that.
                ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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                  #38
                  Yeah, it's a miserable sight. It's getting better though, I'm quite hopeful it'll be in quite good condition when I'm done with it, at least in the best I can do.

                  The internal shell is made from 2mm sheet and what I have is 1 and 1.25mm, so I went shopping for 2mm... what a disappointment, the steel yard did not have shears to cut it with, so I need to borrow a trailer the fetch the sheet.

                  However, I got another tool earlier this week...



                  A 24" roller/shear/brake combination :D Unfortunately only up to 1mm thickness for full width parts, but it'll be great aid when doing bodywork for the car. As for the 2mm sheet, I guess my only option is to blacksmith it.

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                    #39
                    so far im impressed with your blacksmithing work. i know i couldn't do that
                    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by FE3-323 View Post
                      so far im impressed with your blacksmithing work. i know i couldn't do that
                      I wasn't too sure if I could do it myself, but some youtube browsing helped build confidence and willingness to try:

                      http://www.metalshapingzone.com Form any part by hand- no machines are needed- shrink and stretch- make compound curved parts-metal finish- lead load- all by...




                      Even though it's basically an abridged ad for the actual tutorial video, the epiphany was like being hit by a ton of bricks from the orbit. The latter video filled in much of the gaps freom the first. The another thing to understanding was that even though the piece will look as if you've destroyed it, it's just a part of the process. The patch in the earlier post looked like ready for scrap metal bin until close to the end.
                      Last edited by STW; 05-14-2012, 10:05 AM. Reason: Trying to sound less like bad e-mail spam

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                        #41


                        Here's the work done in monday. The left mount is getting ready, the next step will be the 2mm inner panel, which won't be as intricately shaped, but much tougher to shape. I'm quite happy how the replacement panels turned out, especially as there's not much original steel left there. I think the most difficult phase with the rear subframe is pretty much done now. At least I hope so...

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                          #42
                          Okay, these...


                          ...are the first rails of this structure:


                          Frame is moving along nicely too! The inspection officers don't like these, but they actually aren't against the roadworthiness code. They just need to be very, very well made so they can't be rejected on some minor issue.

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                            #43
                            why does the frame structure overlay like that in the middle?
                            ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                            1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                            I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                            he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                            Comment


                              #44
                              The stiffening elements of the floor (frame rails, rocker panel boxes, central tunnel) terminate or blend in at the rear couch pedestal; that's why it's making such a drastic change in structural thickness. Same thing at the front, too; at the firewall the same box rails start growing in height to nearly 120mm at the front strut towers.

                              The overlapping pieces are needed to recreate the required structural height; the ends of the lower tubing beneath the taller pieces are also trailing arm mount points.

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                                #45
                                hrmm! thanks for explaining that to me.
                                ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                                1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                                I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                                he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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