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Thread: How to remove stuck CV shaft.

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    How to remove stuck CV shaft.

    Okay, I am still searching this out a bit more on the web but here is the problem, when doing my engine swap could not get my drivers side cv out of the tranny, so before I would get a chance to step back and asses, my friend took the pry bar and tried to nudge it out but in the process ruined the transmission seal, so when we finialy did it the right way and seperated the shaft and left the end on the tranny upon re assembly fluid started leaking out. So now we have to choice but to remove it, so I need to see whats the best, easiest and wont cause any damage.
    Thanks

    P,S the swapped engine runs amazing. She is ready to go again

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    Registered User nerd racing's Avatar
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    I think the best way is to get a large cold chizel and wedge it between the case and the axle end, then hit it up like a wedge until it pops out. be careful not to crack the case.
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    Registered User progt91's Avatar
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    a large prybar and some elbow grease should do the trick. wedging the cold chisel will probably damage the case.
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    It helps if you can get a prybar on top and bottom of the stub axle. I've had the best luck with 2 people doing it. One from underneath and the other from the top. It also seems to come out better if both people do a coordinated push at the same time. It responds better to sudden force as opposed to prolonged steady prying.

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    Registered User BFMRGTX's Avatar
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    Don't forget new axle seals, which are cheap and should be readily available.

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    Registered User nickz's Avatar
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    I've had good results with a sliding weight panel puller thingie.Definately impact the pull on it,to pop it out.I do happen to have a good tranny to go with that good ex-motor of mine..Would suck to have to pull'er again though huh?Ah well the s@#t we go through for these S%$t boxes is unreal.Welcome to our world &Good luck man.

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    The mazda is dead :( pirite's Avatar
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    sounds real stupid.... but works like a charm.
    tie a rope around it at the end and have a buddy pull straight out on it as you hit t with a hammer. had a driveshaft that wouldnt come out, wasted a good 45 min on. tried the rope and it came out in literally 3 min.

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    Thanks guys, keep em coming I will try all of them tonight, and for the rope thing you , mean hit the axel back in while pulling it with the rope, also some people said you can take a punch from the other side and hammer it out, but I am afraid of the metal shavings.

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    The mazda is dead :( pirite's Avatar
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    i mean hitting it on the side as someone is pulling. and when i say pulling, i mean full body weight. the hammer just helps loosen it enough so the force pulling outwards can do its job.

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    Mazda Whore Ace's Avatar
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    I've also run into the same issue quite a few times. Usually on F series trannys. I usually use a chisel or a pickle fork and wedge it, if it doesn't pop out then I turn it a little bit, keep trying after a little turn until it comes. It's a matter of getting the clip that's on the axle inside the trans.
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    What size pickel fork? like the ball joint tierod kind?

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    Well guys, fought with it for a few hours, no avail, even blew through the stub slapped the biggest slide hammer on and would no budge, so I he manned it and changed the tranny 4 hours. 2 issues, it was working okay for a bit but now the clutch pedal went down and clicked and hit the floor, and now will just fall to the floor and has no feeling car will not go into gear but can go in when its stopped? I am guessing needs adjustment, also when I test drove it clutch slipped just a bit so I am assuming that, and my center diff lock button flashes and does not engage, the vacum line is on and so is the all the connects?

    Any ideas? didnt get a chance yesterday to see if it was moving or not. Will confirm tomorrow.

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    Registered User BFMRGTX's Avatar
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    Diff Lock: Re-check your electrical connections. Ensure the locking shaft is turned correctly, and the teeth are engaging the gears. The 8mm or 10mm locking pin on top is installed correctly. The line is vent, not vacuum. When in doubt, whip the FSM out.

    Clutch: Too many variables.
    The clutch master / slave should be fine if you didn't mess with it (you should only need to unbolt the slave from the tranny and remove the line retaining clip, then stow it out of the way). If you ended up letting the fluid out from the system, then that is most likely the issue. This is assuming that the T.O. bearing / release fork assy. wasn't messed with and that you failed to mention that if you did.

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    16 is legal enough wheresthericego's Avatar
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    Sounds like you need to bleed the clutch line for one. Don't know about the flashing light.
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    The slave cylinder exploded, I coudlnt see it in the dark, got another slave cylinder.

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