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    How To: Forge a 2.0L FS

    This is not complete, I will Update with Pictures and Notes as the Engine is being rebuilt.

    As some may know, and/or not care...

    I am in the process of building several spare motors for MP5T.

    I wanted to post up all the information so you could save much time.

    Contact me directly at brianmp5t@gmail.com if you have a very specific question.


    Parts You Will Need, With Price.


    Used Engine - Oil Pan to Valve Cover. $900.00
    Forged Pistons 9:1 or 8.5:1 - CP or ARIAS. $500.00 (BORE 3.288" C.H. 1.177")
    Piston Rings - with Pistons
    Wrist Pin - with Pistons
    Forged Rods - Olliver or Pauter MAZ-190-510-1350F $500.00
    Main Bearings - OEM Mazda or Clevite MS-2057 $100.00
    Rod Bearings - OEM Mazda or Clevite CB-1652P $100.00
    Bearing Shims - Clevite TW-596S $30.00
    Head Bolts - OEM or ARP Kit $100.00
    Head Gasket - OEM or COMETIC C5844-030 $100.00
    Main Bolts - OEM $100.00
    Oil Sprayer - OEM (Oil Jet Under Piston ) $100.00 (This is standard/stock part on the FS Engine)
    Water Pump - OEM Rebuild $100.00
    Timing Belt - OEM $100.00
    Valve Seals - OEM $50.00
    Valve Springs - OEM $50.00
    Cam Output Seals - OEM $40.00
    Crank Output Seals - OEM $40.00
    Oil Pump - OEM (May Not Be Required Unless High Miles)
    Spark Plugs
    Assembly Lube
    Black Sealant
    Grey Sealant


    Tools Required.
    (Socket, Wrenches, Hammers, Piston Ring Tool, BASIC TOOLS) Plus These Specifically.

    10mm 12 Point Socket (Rod Bolts)
    12mm 12 Point Socket (Main Bolts)
    10mm Allen 1/2 Drive (OEM Head Bolts)
    Precise Torque Wrench (Head Bolts in/Lbs)
    Paint Marker Like This ... http://www.nissenmarkers.com/include...&extension=JPG







    -Engine Work

    CLEAN (TANK)

    Self Explanatory. A Bath of Nasty Chemicals which remove years of Crud and grease from the engine. A bath that prepares the engine to be machined. A Good way to start any project.

    BORE

    The standard bore is the width (Diameter) of the cylinder. With normal use, the cylinder will not wear very much, however, if you miss oil changes, or AUTO-X the car, you might have scoring on the cylinder walls. It is possible to Re-Bore the cylinder. Sometimes if it is required to take a bit too much metal off to get that nice round shape, an Overbore piston can be ordered, They are normally in the order of 10 or 20 THOU over. (Ten Thousand of an inch).

    This is very important. If you over the cylinder and not the piston, then that 10 THOU ends up exploding on the rings that are not designed to hold pressure in that way. They eventually fail. The piston should be as tight as possible, the rings when compressed in the cylinder will almost be fully closed and make a full seal.

    CRANK BALANCE

    Changing the pistons and Rods, will upset the balance of the crank. It will need to be re-balanced to the new weight.

    ALIGNHONE

    Not always required.

    The process of align honing resets the geometry of the Mains to the cylinder so that all the force is perfectly centered on the crank. This prevents crank walk and can actually increase the longevity of the motor.

    The process can also be applied to the Cams.

    DECK SURFACE

    Fairly Obvious and easy to overlook.

    Two Parts: Surface and Straightness

    Surface: The Surface should be as free of damage as possible. A Fresh machined surface is the best way to set yourself for success.

    Straightness: A bent block will NEVER SEAL. If it is warped, this must be done to the block to return it to a flat surface.

    It is very important that this new surface is totally coverd with oil, protected by cardboard and wood for transportation.

    It is equally important that the surface is totally bare just before the head gasket goes on. Brake Cleaner and a heat gun (Can cause Flame).

    Apply the brake cleaner and do not use your fingers as they have oil. Let it dry or force it dry with a heat gun and very quickly place the head gasket.

    HEAD SURFACE



    More important than the Deck.

    NOTE: The head has three wear marks, They work like a wear mark on a tire.

    If the machining that must be done, goes down to that point, then the head is GARBAGE. The piston could hit the top of the head and totally damage the entire motor. Get a new head and rebuild it.

    Same as before, a big blast of brake cleaner, and a heat gun, just before being placed over the head gasket.

    - Engine Assembly

    Do This Well, and Life Will not take a giant **** on your day.

    Installing Oil Pump, Crank and Output Seals


    Output seals are easy, you will figure it out.

    Crank: Invert the engine and blast the mains with WD-40, Place half the bearings in their correct location (x5) place assembly lube and then place the crank in place.

    Put the other bearings in the main caps and lube them.

    Place them over the crank, but do not force them down. Install the mains bolts (I had ARP Studs for this and they torque in three stages, 40, 50, then 60 in a star pattern.

    Oil pump should be primed with motor oil, pour oil in and rotate the gears. Make sure that the O-Ring is installed and seal it to the block with Grey Silicone.


    Installing Pistons and Rods





    The pistons and Rings should be assembled by a person who has done it before.

    The pistons should be installed in pairs only, The two outside at once or the two inside at once.

    Blast the machined surface of the crank, cylinder, Pistons, Rods with some sort of oil like WD-40. This is done only to get the dirt and **** off of the parts. Apply assembly lube to the surface of the piston rings and compress the piston rings in a compressor. It works well if a second set of hands hold the compressor when you tap the piston in place. If you have FIREBALL COATING, you must take special car to not mar the surface. There is a special tool to install them which is totally not required, You can normally use a fist or place a piece of Poly-U on the piston and tap it in with wood like normal.

    Make sure that the piston is able to easily slide in with several small taps, rather than one big one.

    Before the rod makes contact with the crank, install the rod bearings. Clean them with WD-40, then put assembly lube on the crank. Push the piston in by hand until it seats on the crank. Put the second part of the bearing in the rod cap and lightly screw in the bolts on the cap, just to hold stuff in place. Repeat this for the second piston.

    If it is an APR bolt, there is Torque Grease that must be applied to the bolt to give consistent results.

    My Pauter Rods came with a 50 Ft Lb torque requirement and a 12 Point bolt head.

    I suggest first torquing to 40 then to 50.

    Once the two are torqued, you can spin the crank to make sure there is no binding. It is normal for this to feel seized. Even with the lube on the cylinder walls, you are literally polishing the rough surface of the cylinder, and all the bearings by hand.

    Installing Windage Plate and Oil Pan
    More To Follow

    Installing Water Pump
    More To Follow

    Installing Head Gasket and Head Bolts

    DO NOT REUSE THE OEM BOLTS.
    MAKE SURE THE BLOCK AND HEAD ARE MACHINED TRUE AND FREE OF OIL/CRAP
    MAKE SURE THE HEAD GASKET IS FACING THE CORRECT WAY
    DO NOT DROP THE HEAD SHARPLY ON THE GASKET, IT WILL CRUSH THE GASKET







    Cylinder Head Installation Note
    1. BUY NEW BOLTS FROM DEALER YOU CHEAP BASTARD (I don't give a **** what others tell you to do, they are Torque Yield Bolts, meaning they behave like a spring.
    Standard length
    104.2—104.8 mm {4.103—4.125 in}
    Maximum length
    105.5 mm {4.153 in}

    2. Tighten the cylinder head bolts from center out in a star pattern. This is so that the gasket is able to lie completely flat and not bunch up during the install..



    Tightening torque, NOTE THAT THIS IS A VERY TINY NUMBER, use a 10mm Allen Socket and as short of an extension as possible. The extension will make the torque wrench read LOWER than actual, use the higher 16.5 Foot pounds value. I had to convert it to Inch Ounces as that is what my small torque wrench is scaled in.

    17.5—22.5 N·m 1.79—2.29 kgf·m,
    From 13.0 Foot Pound To 16.5 Foot Pound

    After you have torqued all 10 bolts in the proper sequence, you should verify the torque making sure not to over torque.



    Get a Paint marker and precisely mark the 12 O'Clock position on all 10 bolts and let it dry for 10 min.

    You should have a second person help steady the engine for the next part as it requires a fair bit of force.

    With the Paint mark as a reference, Starting From 1 to 10 like before apply 90 Degrees to each bolt.
    Once you have done all 10, then
    Apply a second 90 Degrees to each bolt. (You Will Feel As If You Will Break The Bolt, You must apply the full 90 Degrees.)

    Once done, all marks will be 180 Degrees from where they were painted, or 6 O'Clock.

    Installing Cams








    Installing Cam Gears
    More To Follow

    Timing The Engine
    More To Follow

    #2
    Very nice. I just rebuilt a motor at school as well. All of this is very familiar. :p
    Might want to mention about the notches on the bearings. Both notches go on the same side and you don't want to use assembly lube on the bottom sides (sides where theres nothing spinning) of the bearing or else you can spin one.
    -Steve

    94' Protege < Worklog<SOLD!
    VF10 powered!
    262 Whp & 257 Wtq
    13.1@107

    '02 Suzuki Bandit 600s

    Comment


      #3
      man you either rob banks or have a bitching financial advisor

      nice write up, can be applied to pretty much any motor
      Originally posted by 90prtege
      have you heard a yaris drive by you??? it says immmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmgayyyyyyyyy!!!!
      Originally posted by Turpro
      Fk the family. Drugs and hookers take priority first

      bpt323: broom break
      CRZbrussian: that sux
      CRZbrussian: get swifer wet
      CRZbrussian: ****s aluminum

      Comment


        #4
        Very informative and detailed write-up. Good job. I thought I'd add some dimensional data to guide the rebuilder in the measuring and machining process and to help decide whether a component has to be replaced. The data is taken from Engine Workshop Manual FS and included here in the same section headings used by the OP for maximum clarity.

        DECK SURFACE

        See photo 1. Measure the distortion of the cylinder block top surface in the six directions as shown. Repair by grinding or replace as necessary.

        BORE

        If the cylinder bore exceeds the wear limit, replace the cylinder block or rebore the cylinder and install oversize pistons so that the specified piston-to-cylinder clearance is maintained.

        Size _________________________ Diameter
        Standard _______________ 83.000-83.019 mm (3.2678-3.2684")

        .25 mm (.01") oversize ___ 83.250-83.269 mm (3.2776-3.2783")

        .50 mm (.02") oversize ___ 83.500-83.519 mm (3.2874-3.2881")

        Wear Limit
        .15 mm (.006")

        HEAD SURFACE
        Photos 2 and 3. Measure the distortion of the mounting surfaces of the cylinder head in the six directions as shown.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by goldstar; 05-02-2011, 07:15 AM.
        02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
        MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
        MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
        Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
        MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
        Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
        Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
        Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
        Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
        Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
        Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
        Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
        Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

        Comment


          #5
          im impressed with how organized & precise this assembly was
          ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

          1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




          I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
          he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

          Comment


            #6
            and this is what a built forged FS looks like when it blows up. lol.



            block has a 12in x 8in hole. i plan on making a nice coffee table for my garage out of it.
            ~PaTricK~


            -Current car's-
            ~ 92 Probe GT Turbo, 90 FE3 Turbo 626GT hatch, 97 KL mtx 626, 05 Mazda6, 09 Kia Sportage V6~
            What are you driving?

            Comment


              #7
              Your the man! MP5T is legendary. lol

              Comment


                #8
                I wanted to Edit and Add..

                Do not put assembly lube on the Piston Rings.. Those get Motor Oil.
                If you are unsure, you should verify the clearance of the bearings with a plasti-gauge.

                Comment


                  #9

                  Comment

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