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    Battery relocation and wiring

    I don't need a how-to for relocating the battery. This is just a question of an alternate wiring scenario.

    Since I'll have the engine out of the car for a while, I was playing with the idea of relocating the battery to the trunk. I see everybody using distribution blocks to run a wire from the positive battery terminal to the alternator, starter and fuse box.

    What I was thinking was running a ground from the engine to chassis and from the battery to the chassis. Then (since the positive cable has to be run through the car to the engine bay anyway and the wiring is already there) just connect the positive wire to the the end of the harness already in the engine bay. No distribution block and no rewiring needed.

    Or is there too much of a safety concern or something that I'm too naive to understand?

    P.S. I hate wiring, which is why this solution came to mind.

    #2
    I relocated my battery without using a distribution block. I just wired it in like stock.

    Battery to fuse box, grounded battery in trunk. Splice off the battery wire with the same gauge wire, and run it to the starter. That's it. lol

    Normall Mazda runs the battery + to the starter and splices it there, then goes to the fuse box.
    -Jack

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      #3
      So no matter what I'll have to cut and plice wires for the starter and fuse box even though the factory hrness already has those wires? Basically what I'd be doing is stretching the positive cable from the engine bay to the trunk, if you can imagine it that way. I can sketch out a quick diagram if that would help explain what I'd be doing.

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        #4
        there are 2 cables coming out of the positive terminal on my battery. one goes to the starter and the other goes to the main relay in the fuse box and then gets sent to the alternator from there.

        so if you dont want to splice anything. run the main cable to the positive cables. then just attach them together
        1994 Escort LX Wagon
        2013 Hyundai Veloster Turbo
        91 Infiniti M30 Convertible - Traded in for Veloster
        91 EGT - Junked May 2012

        "Going to church doesn't make you a Christian like standing in a garage doesn't make you a car."

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          #5
          Originally posted by MATT91GT View Post
          so if you dont want to splice anything. run the main cable to the positive cables. then just attach them together
          That's what I was trying to get at. It just seems like more of a hassle to cut and splice wires when it's not needed.

          Thanks guys, I think I may just go through with this plan now that someone shares my idea

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            #6
            Take pics if possible, let us know how it went.

            FYI:

            Just in case you got a capacitor, take out the fuse for the cap. I once forgot and the spark freak me out, luckily I was not dealing with fuel. Had to work on something on the engine bay, disconnected the battery and totally forgot about the capacitor still supplying voltage.

            And if you experience low dim lights after battery relocation the cap will have a ton to keep the juice up for bright lights.

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              #7
              I scared myself too one day. Disconnected the negative battery terminal and was undoing the positive side when the wrench touched the strutbar. Zap! Apparently the negative lead fell back and touched the battery again, haha. Live and learn I suppose.

              As for the capacitor comment. I don't have one. My amp is only running my interior speakers. If I had a sub then I'd wire up a capacitor for it.

              Sent from my HTC Incredible using Tapatalk.

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