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    Installed Stainless Steel Brake Lines

    Suspension movement and steering make it necessary that a portion of the steel brake pipes, that run from the brake master cylinder located near the firewall on the driver's side to each wheel, be made flexible to avoid breakage. Over time and with continuous use, it's said that these OEM rubber lines can undergo volumetric expansion causing the lines to swell and expand leading to brake fade. The result of brake fade is a loss of efficiency since any force utilized to expand the flexible brake lines is subtracted from the force available to act on the caliper pistons, and in the case of drum brakes, wheel cylinder pistons. Additionally, over time rubber is said to deteriorate due to exposure to ozone and is subject to damage or failure from road debris.

    To forestall these possible/potential problems, stainless steel (SS) brake lines are available to replace the OEM product. These lines have an inner teflon core with an outer stainless steel braided wire covering. The construction makes them much more rigid than the rubber types and eliminates (or at least minimizes) the problem of volumetric expansion while still providing the necessary flexibility. Quite apart from the purported advantages of a more rigid line, the OEM parts in my car are now ~ 9 years old and replacing them seems to be a wise preventive measure. I selected the Techna-Fit brake lines because they have a PVC covering over the stainless steel braid thus providing extra protection from abrasion and road debris. Zinc-plated steel fittings are permanently crimped on each end. Although I ordered the clear PVC covering, other colors are available.

    Techna-fit states that all their brake lines are DOT certified which means that they meet or exceed the specifications outlined in FMVSS-106 (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards - brake lines).

    Two sets of brake lines are available for the 1999-2003 Proteges: one for models with 4-wheel disc brakes and one for models with rear drums. Since I have a DX with rear drum brakes, I ordered p/n: MA-1280. This set includes 2-banjo fitting mounting bolts and 4-sealing washers for the front brake lines. For models with 4-wheel disc brakes order set p/n: MA-1285.


    I purchased my brake lines from Horsepower Freaks, Inc. for US $95 + $10.38 S & H for a total of US $105.38. Shipping was prompt and trouble free.


    SS brake lines are also available from Goodridge (lacks the external PVC covering), and CorkSport (manufacturer unspecified).

    In the next post I'll cover the installation of the lines.

    Happy Motoring!

    Photo 1: Front (top) and rear SS brake lines also showing the package containing the banjo fitting mounting bolts and sealing washers.

    Photo 2: Close-up view of the end fittings.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by goldstar; 06-02-2011, 06:32 AM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    #2
    Installing the Lines

    Tools and Materials
    8 mm box wrench
    10 mm flare nut wrench
    10 mm 3/8" drive flare nut crowfoot wrench
    14 mm 6-pt socket
    17 mm flare nut wrench
    3/8" drive ratchet
    Torque wrench, 3/8" drive
    Bleeder hose
    Catch container, clear glass or plastic
    Brake fluid: type SAE J1703 or FMVSS 116 DOT3

    Procedure

    Initial Preparation
    Before disconnecting any brake lines, the FSM states that the fluid should be removed from the reservoir with a pump or syringe. The reservoir, also located near the firewall is common to both the brake and clutch hydraulic systems but the master cylinders are separate. Alternatively, after disconnecting a brake line, direct the stream into a catch container.

    Begin by loosening all lug nuts, and locks if you have them, jack the car, place 4 jackstands underneath, and then remove the wheels. Once the wheels are off, everything is completely visible and all work can be carried out from the side of the car - no need to go underneath.

    Installing the Front Lines
    I began with the front brakes disconnecting the OEM flexible line from the brake pipe at the upper end and the caliper at the lower end. Use a 10 mm flare nut wrench to remove the flex line from the steel brake pipe and a 14 mm socket and ratchet (or a 14 mm box wrench) to remove the banjo fitting end at the caliper. The flex line itself can be held with the 17 mm flare nut wrench. Slightly more than halfway down, the flex line is held in place by a bracket. The OEM flex line can now be removed and discarded, along with the two used sealing washers.

    Fit the new SS line into position and connect its upper end to the brake pipe. The FSM specifies the torque setting for all brake pipe nuts of 113-190 in/lbs (12.8-27.5 nm); this value converts to 9.4-15.8 ft/lbs. To accomplish this requires the use of the 10 mm crowfoot flare wrench fitted to the torque wrench. Mazda has a neat factory tool for the job listed in the FSM - a double-ended flare nut wrench with a center recess for a ratchet drive. This is one of Mazda's SSTs. The p/n is 49 0259 770B.

    As the FSM notes, using the crowfoot wrench or the SST increases the effective length of the torque wrench requiring the use of a torque adjustment formula to obtain the correct setting. This formula can be found in the General Information section of the FSM and I'll repeat it here for those who don't have access to that reference:
    Adjusted Torque Setting = ft/lbs x [L/L+A]

    where,
    L = length of torque wrench
    A = length of crowfoot wrench or SST, center-to-center

    However, in this case the additional C-to-C length of the 10 mm crowfoot is so minor compared with the torque wrench length (roughly .5" to 15" using my setup), that no adjustment is really necessary.

    I have no doubt that an experienced wrencher using an appropriate degree of judgement could snug up the line satisfactorily without using a torque wrench.

    Next, connect the lower, banjo-fitting end of the SS line to the caliper using one of the provided fixing bolts and two of the sealing washers. Tighten this using the 14 mm socket and the torque wrench. Here, it's important to use a torque wrench so that the proper degree of crush is applied to the sealing washers. The FSM specifies a torque setting of 16-21 ft/lbs (22-29 Nm). As always, I split the difference at 18.5 ft/lbs.

    Clip the SS line into its holding bracket and the new SS line is now fully in place. Repeat these same steps on the other front brake. See photos below.

    Installing the Rear Lines (Drum Brakes Only)
    Unlike the front flex lines whose lower ends connect directly to the caliper, the rear flex lines instead of connecting to the wheel cylinder through the backing plate, are placed between two lengths of brake pipe. Locate the OEM flex line and remove it using the 10 mm flare nut wrench. Install the SS replacement following the same method as already described for the upper part of the front brake line. The same comments made in reference to that installation apply here. Repeat this process for the other rear brake and the installation part of the job is complete.

    Fluid Replacement and Bleeding
    The FSM states:
    Do not mix different brands of fluid.
    Do not use drained brake fluid.

    All 4 slave cylinders must be bled starting at the point farthest from the master cylinder - the right rear. Each bleeder valve communicates with its respective slave cylinder in either the caliper or the on the backing plate. Locate the bleeder valve on the backing plate and remove the rubber dust cover which allows access to it using the 8 mm box wrench. Following the FSM instructions, I attached a hose to the bleeder valve and placed the other end of the hose in a clear glass jar. My friend helped me - he sat in the car and operated the brake pedal while I operated the bleeder valve and maintained the fluid level in the reservoir. The brake pedal has to be depressed several times and then while holding it in the depressed postion, the bleeder has to be opened to let the fluid escape. Then, the bleeder is closed and the process repeated until only clear, bubble-free fluid can be seen.

    In order, repeat the same process for the left rear, the right front, and the left front brakes. The bleeder valves for the front brakes are located on the calipers. Use caution in tightening the bleeder as the torque setting is only 53-78 in/lbs (5.9-8.8 Nm); this value translates to 4.4-6.5 ft/lbs. Remember to replace the rubber dust covers. Complete the job by topping up the fluid level in the reservoir to the MAX line.

    Install the wheels, bring the car back to earth, tighten the lug nuts to the factory recommended setting of 66-86 ft/lbs (89-117 Nm), and congratulate yourself on a job well done.

    Happy Motoring!

    Driving impressions to follow.

    Photo 1: OEM front brake line.

    Photo 2: Lower end of OEM front brake line showing connection to caliper and bleeder valve with dust cover in place.

    Photo 3: SS front brake line

    Photo 4: Lower end of SS front brake line showing attachment to caliper and bleeder valve with dust cover.

    Photo 5: Close-up of above.

    Photo 6: OEM rear brake line

    Photo 7: OEM rear brake line, another view.

    Photo 8: SS rear brake line

    Photo 9: Brake pipe connection to backing plate showing bleeder valve.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by goldstar; 06-23-2011, 06:59 AM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #3
      w00t! thanks for the write up! ive got a set of ss lines sitting in my closet for years. trying to sell it so i can get the pvc coated kind.

      Comment


        #4
        I just got back from Auto Zone ready to do the braided clutch and brake lines while I wait for the Walbro to arrive.

        Its perfect timing to see this thread, should be a sticky, IMO.

        Thank you for the step by step DIY.

        Comment


          #5
          Awesome write up as always! Did you have any issues with the line spinning at the banjo bolt, since it doesn't retain the support arm that holds it into the caliper backing?
          -Jack

          ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

          91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
          http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

          01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

          91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
          http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks for the good words, guys. I'm glad you found the writeup useful.

            Originally posted by Mazda_Powered View Post
            Awesome write up as always! Did you have any issues with the line spinning at the banjo bolt, since it doesn't retain the support arm that holds it into the caliper backing?
            Jack, I didn't seem to have a problem despite the lack of the support arm. When I first noticed its absence I thought it might be a problem. However, I just held the line in position while I snugged it up with the ratchet. Then, I put the torque wrench on to bring it up to spec during which time the fitting rotated ever so slighty but not enough to matter.

            Happy Motoring!
            02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
            MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
            MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
            Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
            MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
            Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
            Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
            Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
            Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
            Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
            Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
            Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
            Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

            Comment


              #7
              Road Test

              Immediately upon driving the car after the SS line installation, it was obvious that the brakes felt more powerful. That is, they seemed to exert more stopping force under hard braking than was previously the case. What also became apparent was that brake modulation was improved. What I mean is that there seemed to be a more direct communication between pedal movement and amount of braking force applied. Now, both these outcomes would be expected if indeed volumetric expansion of the OEM brake lines was taking place since now all of the hydraulic force is being applied to the slave cylinder pistons rather than some being diverted to expand the lines. The difference was quite noticeable. In effect, a fairly significant brake upgrade without changing rotors or pads.

              Testing was carried out on the road but under extremely demanding conditions. Two excellent venues for this kind of work are Skyline Drive in NJ, not too far from my home, and farther away in Orange county in NY state, Route 17A between Route 17 near Southfields to a point just outside Warwick, NY. This latter road (a 2-lane country highway) is particularly ideal for brake testing because of the relatively short straights and numerous severe curves. By pushing the car faster than one normally would on the straights, you're forced to make maximum use of the brakes on the twisties, unless one wants to go off into the woods.

              Some cautions are in order, however. While it's true no change was made to the brake components themselves, only the lines (and new brake fluid, of course), any improvement has to be viewed from the standpoint that here we're comparing new SS lines with 9-year old OEM lines. Proponents of SS lines always cite deterioration of rubber lines over time as one reason for the change. It's been suggested that as rubber lines age, their tendency to undergo volumetric expansion increases. Those who maintain SS lines are unnecessary, at least in daily drivers, suggest that if OEM lines are replaced every 4-years or so SS lines would show little, or lessened, advantage. This remains an empirical question. Competition, naturally, is another matter since maximum, long-duration braking performance, and resistance to abrasion and damage from track debris become paramount factors.

              In this connection, wheresthericego (Nate) had mentioned in a thread discussing SS clutch lines that hydraulic lines have an estimated life expectancy in the industrial world and therefore routine replacement of our automotive lines is something we should also consider. Then again, if one is planning routine replacement, why not just fit the SS lines once and for all and be done with it?

              Just something to think about.

              I like the improved braking response and shorter stopping distances. It makes driving the twisties even more fun and provides an additional safety factor in everyday, daily driving. I think it's a cost-effective mod considering the price you'd pay for OEM replacements. Certainly, those planning to upgrade their rotors and pads might want to consider the SS lines as part of the total package.

              Happy Motoring!
              Last edited by goldstar; 06-02-2011, 06:24 AM.
              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

              Comment


                #8
                do you remember how long this job took you? trying to gauge if i have time this weekend or need to make a commitment some other weekend. thanks.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Sorry, it's been a long time and I really don't remember how long the job took. I want to say about 3 hours but I had a friend help me bleed the brakes and we were socializing while I was working. Not being a professional tech I tend to take longer to do a job so I'm probably on the slow side. Good luck with your installation. I'm sure you'll like the results.

                  Happy Motoring!
                  02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                  MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                  MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                  Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                  MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                  Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                  Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                  Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                  Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                  Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                  Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                  Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                  Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                  Comment

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