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Thread: AC compressor problems

  1. #1
    Registered User deveous9's Avatar
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    Angry AC compressor problems

    So the summer is here and it looks like the ac compressor on my 91 lx is not helping out much with my cooling needs! I am new to this forum and after much researching around I have decided to post up my issue on here. My compressor clutch will not activate when I press the ac button and turn the knob all the way to cold. I thought that maybe the compressor will not work if the ac system didn't have any freon installed so I went ahead and installed the 134 plugs on my r12 inlets and filled my ac system. I have to point out that the only way I can get my ac clutch to activate is by wiring a cable to the battery straight to the compressor cable. I have tried replacing the the ac relays and nothing! So to sum things up, I can not activate my ac compressor clutch without wiring it straight to the battery. The ac compressor clutch will not cycle, it will just keep spinning and to top things of there is a loud scratching noise coming from the compressor when I activate the ac clutch.

    somebody please help????

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    When you hit the AC switch does the Rad/AC fan turn on?
    Sounds like the issue isn't the compressor since you can manually turn it on

    Make sure the wires at all the plugs aren't corroded I had the same issue and had to manually bypass one of the wires at the plugs

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    Registered User deveous9's Avatar
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    Ok i will check the button connections but in answer to your question, yes the light on the ac switch does turn on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by deveous9 View Post
    Ok i will check the button connections but in answer to your question, yes the light on the ac switch does turn on.
    my question was do he Rad and AC fan turn on?

  5. #5
    Registered User deveous9's Avatar
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    yes the radiator and ac fan both activate.

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    If you manually tripe the compressor do you get cold air or is it still warm?

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    Registered User deveous9's Avatar
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    Ok so yesterday I was in vegas for edc and it was 107 degrees! I turned on the ac and I was amazed when I heard the ac compressor clutch kick in! No wiring or special splicing needed. The problem kinda fixed itself but I suspect that the power cable to the compressor was corroded. Thank you all who helped me with my problem. But now I did notice that my engine was struggling to make it up the highway and the temperature gauge did get a little hotter than normal. I suspect the radiator may be very inefficient in my cooling the engine under heavy loads.

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    1st gen = best gen Cool_Steve's Avatar
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    Thought I'd ask my questions in this recent A/C thread. The A/C in my Protege hasn't worked its best since summer 2008. In 2009 I could tell it wasn't blowing as cold and it was 'room temperature' air by 2010. As far as I know the compressor works. Go figure the air in my 21 year old 929 still works decently enough on warm days.

    When I detailed my engine bay last year I caught site of a rusty piece of line, and followed it to discover it is hooked to the A/C system. It's in a pain in the ass place to even photograph. Is this what slowly killed my A/C, all my gas leaked out?







    I have these little R134 tags wrapped around some lines of the system. Does this mean at some point this system was converted to carry R134 gas? First generations got R12 and didn't get R134 until the second generation.

    ~ Stephen ~
    -1993 Ford Taurus LX (R.I.P.)
    -1994 Mazda Protegé SE (Canadian market trim pkg)
    -1990 Mazda 929 S
    -1991 Mazda 323 LX (Sold)
    -1992 Toyota Corolla LE (Davesfarm) <R.I.P. Sept. 2009>
    -1990 Toyota Corolla SE (Davesfarm) (still alive in 2013!)
    -1994 Buick Regal Custom (Davesfarm) <R.I.P. Sept. 2009>
    -1983 Pontiac Parisienne (Sold)

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    It's possible that that is the cause of your lack of A/C. What I'd do is take it to a shop and have them recharge the system and make sure they put dye in it so you can find the leak. Or, you can find the same thing in auto parts stores now. Run the system for a while, then pull out some yellow glasses and look for a stain. Leak found. Replace thing that's broken. And yes, the R134 tags *should* mean you have 134 in the system instead of R12. Easy way to check: at a shop, if they try to hook up 134 connectors and the don't fit, it's R12. If they do, it's R134.
    1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

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    I can tell by how large that fitting is, that it is indeed 134a. R-12 fittings are only about 1/2 the size. Like 1mazda said, have a shop re-charge it and put some dye in it. That leak could actually be the dye if any was put in before you had the car. I never suggest anyone to do it themselves because to be honest, they do not know what they are doing. If I am not mistaken, the cans you can buy at lets say Autozone only have a hook-up to the low pressure side. A qualified tech can tell by looking at the pressures compared to the ambient temperature if there is a clog in the system or just needs to be re-charged.

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    Registered User ivan15's Avatar
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    Get your self a set of manifold gauges and use the temperature pressure chart to see if it so properly filled. If they don't allow you to purchase 134a in canada you can always have it shipped from the usa

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    Registered User ivan15's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raider9864 View Post
    I can tell by how large that fitting is, that it is indeed 134a. R-12 fittings are only about 1/2 the size. Like 1mazda said, have a shop re-charge it and put some dye in it. That leak could actually be the dye if any was put in before you had the car. I never suggest anyone to do it themselves because to be honest, they do not know what they are doing. If I am not mistaken, the cans you can buy at lets say Autozone only have a hook-up to the low pressure side. A qualified tech can tell by looking at the pressures compared to the ambient temperature if there is a clog in the system or just needs to be re-charged.
    He doesn't need a tech. He can figure it out him self and save possibly a thousand dollars.

    http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34850

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    woww that great haha

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    You are right, he could find the problem himself, I was just trying to help. Being able to diagnois an a/c problem is a little harder then just saying outside temp is 85 degrees..low pressure side is 25 psi off of idle and high side is 150 psi off of idle. Like I stated I never tell anyone they should do it themselves if they are unfamiliar because of the effects due to over-filling the system or lack of oil in the system.

  15. #15
    1st gen = best gen Cool_Steve's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the replies thus far. I recently turned on my A/C for the first time in maybe a year. It was hot and humid out, around 35C with the humidity in the shade. The compressor still turns on and off as it should. And when driving, you can feel the engine bog of the system running and the difference when it is shut off.

    When I turn on the A/C in Mom's Protege, it blows the exact same hot/humid air inside. When I turned on mine...it sounds like it wants to work. It didn't blow cold air on that hot day, but room temperature humid free air. I see bubbles and stuff in that little peephole window the system has by the air box. Does that show I have gas still in the system? When both A/C units in our cars started to slowly go, each developed a type of hissing/gurgling noise you hear almost all the time when it is running. That's the best way I can describe the noise, like perhaps something is leaking.

    I think in this case, road salt and rust I'm sure caused something to break open. My '90 929 still has working air and has not seen a winter since 2006.
    ~ Stephen ~
    -1993 Ford Taurus LX (R.I.P.)
    -1994 Mazda Protegé SE (Canadian market trim pkg)
    -1990 Mazda 929 S
    -1991 Mazda 323 LX (Sold)
    -1992 Toyota Corolla LE (Davesfarm) <R.I.P. Sept. 2009>
    -1990 Toyota Corolla SE (Davesfarm) (still alive in 2013!)
    -1994 Buick Regal Custom (Davesfarm) <R.I.P. Sept. 2009>
    -1983 Pontiac Parisienne (Sold)

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