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    300zx's ELX work log

    Well i finally decided to make a work log, and it will inevitably be fairly boring since this thing is a my DD, so dont expect too many updates.

    The history of this car:
    My parents bought this car brand new in 1995 and put about 30K on it before i got my driver license and took over the payments on it, and I have been driving it ever since. I know this car inside and out and it has always been super reliable which is why I never got rid of it, plus after it was paid off I did not want another payment. Fast forward to now and here it sits with a blown engine and 267K miles on it, not bad for the 1.9L engine huh?

    Below are a few pics of the car, some old some new






    Mods/upgrades:

    Exterior:
    • EGT side skirts, front and rear bumpers. Front bumper has molding removed and holes shaved
    • Early style taillights painted all red
    • Piercemotorsports carbon fiber hood and hatch, no spoiler.
    • Solarwing
    • Wet arm wiper conversion using GM wiper squirters since the carbon hood does not have the holes for the stock ones
    • Protege power mirrors
    • LED third brake light circuit board mounted in OE housing from a Jeep Wrangler

    Interior:
    • Complete Black MX3 lower dash, center console, double stack rear console, carpet, front leather seats, and many small misc trim items
    • Mercury Tracer dash bezel with storage pocket
    • Canadian manual seat belts
    • Real leather shift boot and different shift knob.
    • ZXTuner ZX2, 2 pillar gauge pod. this only works because i have manual belts.
    • New Ford OE leather wrap steering wheel
    • BJ protege Mazdaspeed floormats
    • Prosport oil pressure, coolant temp, vacuum, and volt gauges
    • Viper keyless entry

    Suspension/Steering/Brakes:
    • K-sport control pro coilovers with Advanced camber/castor front plates
    • Full ES poly bushing set
    • Rear ZXTuner 22mm swaybar
    • Front slotted rotors with Goodridge braided lines
    • Rear Miata sport suspension slotted rotors, M-tuned Miata sport suspension caliper brackets, braided lines
    • Depowered rack with poly rack bushings
    • 205/45-16 tires on Enkei OR-52 wheels
    • Piercemotorsports front roadrace control arms
    • Piercemotorsports rear crossmember, rear TTL's, front MX3 TTL's with custom machined ES bushings, and custom swaybar droplinks
    • Piercemotorsport front and rear strut tower bars with triangulation in the rear

    Engine/Transmission:
    • KY clutch organic/kevlar clutch
    • 626 5th gear swap
    • poly stabilizer rod bushing, and ZXTuner STS shifter
    • McMaster Carr bronze shifter bushings
    • BP engine swap, with the following mods:
    • Kia BP cut upper intake, bored throttle body, GTX injectors, SMSP header with 3" exhaust, Rebuilt head with port work and shaved .006".
    • Bored .5mm over (.020") with Miata 10:1 pistons, block decked .006", balanced rods and weight matched pistons.
    • B8 SOHC crankshaft, Fidanza Miata Flywheel, Custom intake tube with modified stock air box and modified H-box, OBX thermal intake gasket
    Last edited by KAinjection; 08-26-2013, 11:21 PM.
    92 Mazda MX3 GS> For sale, $1750 OBO
    94 Escort wagon--BP swap coming, VF10 Turbo, COP, EVO ECU, 03 ZX2 front end conversion
    "Hold yourself accountable before you are held accountable"
    EV14 330cc@3Bar injector kits available.
    EV14 GT500 injector kits available for the BP. 610cc@3Bar.
    EV14 925cc@3Bar injector kits available
    BP Forged H beam rods available now
    KL Forged H beam rods available now
    K8/KF Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
    FS Forged H beam rods
    awaiting test fit
    F2 Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
    FE3 Forged H beam rods coming soon
    Mitsubishi 3.8 MIVEC rods coming soon
    Aluminum CAS/Distributor caps
    BP oil jet eliminators
    EV14 fuel rail spacers
    More stuff coming soon.......

    #2
    Things to be done in the future:
    • Custom foglight grill
    • Megasquirt engine management
    • Surprise engine swap
    • Carbon fiber door panels
    • Escort Cosworth hood vents
    • Reduce weight
    • HID retrofit
    • Paint
    • 3 Piece spoiler
    Last edited by KAinjection; 08-26-2013, 11:20 PM.
    92 Mazda MX3 GS> For sale, $1750 OBO
    94 Escort wagon--BP swap coming, VF10 Turbo, COP, EVO ECU, 03 ZX2 front end conversion
    "Hold yourself accountable before you are held accountable"
    EV14 330cc@3Bar injector kits available.
    EV14 GT500 injector kits available for the BP. 610cc@3Bar.
    EV14 925cc@3Bar injector kits available
    BP Forged H beam rods available now
    KL Forged H beam rods available now
    K8/KF Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
    FS Forged H beam rods
    awaiting test fit
    F2 Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
    FE3 Forged H beam rods coming soon
    Mitsubishi 3.8 MIVEC rods coming soon
    Aluminum CAS/Distributor caps
    BP oil jet eliminators
    EV14 fuel rail spacers
    More stuff coming soon.......

    Comment


      #3
      This post is now the parts list and wiring how-to for this swap. You really need to get a GT parts car to make this easier, but you could piece it out if you really wanted to. Since I have done all the work to figure this out, This swap should be much easier for someone to do now in the future. 2 future additions to this post will be wiring the high speed cooling fan relay and A/C WOT cutout relay. The extra effort to make the high speed work on the cooling fan is not necessary, and the 1.8L MTX harness does not have this option only the ATX version did. The 1.9L MTX body harness does however contain the wiring for hi and lo speed, so I think it is extra insurance if for some reason your low speed fan decides not to work, you have a backup. You will also need a ATX radiator to make this function work since the coolant switch screws into the radiator.

      Escort LX to GT parts list:
      Engine and Transmission
      ECU with bracket
      Engine wiring harness------->>>>>>Note<<<<<< you could also get the body harness that connects under the dash to make this a 100% compatible swap or do it my way.
      Intake tubing and VAF meter-------Get the airbox unless your running an open filter element
      Exhaust manifold, down pipe
      Axles
      Shift linkage
      Front torque mount and bracket attached to the transmission
      Vacuum lines, evap, cruise control, brake booster, basically anything that looks different from the LX lines, you will have to use a combination of the 2 later to make it all work.
      Fuel line from the filter to the rail
      All engine accessories
      Power steering lines that connect to the pump
      A/C lines that connect to the compressor
      Ignition coil and fuse box bracket
      Upper and lower radiator, and heater hoses----new ones are a good idea
      Throttle cable from pedal to throttle body

      Optional Items:
      Tachometer so yours will show 7K redline instead of 6K or just swap the whole GT cluster since the circuitry inside the cluster is different for the coolant temp gauge and it will not read correctly with a combination of the BP coolant gauge temp sensor and LX cluster
      Auto trans GT coolant switch located in the radiator or you can find them in Protege and 323 models with autotrans to trigger high speed cooling fan.

      Wiring: This all came from a 1995 Service manual, so different years may have small differences in wiring colors which is why all wire functions need to be verified before plugging in the ECU. I found some of the wires to be a different color in the older harness but the location and wire number were the same, and the color was always similar, but not always exactly the same. Take note the wire colors listed below for each connector are listed in no particular order.

      PCM=ECU

      These connectors I will be listing are from the 2 connectors located under the ECU, a large black connector and a smaller white one.
      1.9L C202----Black
      BK/DG---999---ground path for, speed control amp, A/C high pressure cutoff, ECU, etc.......
      O/DB---25--- "HO2S" fuse--Hot in Run---to O2 sensor heater
      LG/BK---63---From CPPS thru 202 to ECU
      BR/Y---82--- From CPPS thru 202 to ECU
      BK/W---60---from "engine" fuse thru 202 to PCM power relay---hot at all times
      R/DG or LG/R---356---Provides a path to ground to light the upshift indicator thru PCM
      DB/R---330--- From "Room" fuse to PCM---hot at all times
      Y/W---719---From "LO" speed fan relay thru 202 to PCM---PCM provides ground to activate relay
      R/BK---866---Same as above except "HI" speed fan relay

      1.9L C241----White (C201)
      Y/DB---73---From ICM thru 241 to tachometer
      BK/O---163--- From gauge temp sensor thru 241 to coolant gauge
      BK/PK---102---From fuel pump relay thru 241 to fuel pump module---hot in start or run
      BK/PK---102--- Same as above
      Y/BK---129--- From "MIL" thru 241 to PCM---PCM provide ground for light
      DB/BK---702---From "WOT" relay to PCM---PCM provides ground to activate relay
      DG/R---704---From A/C low pressure cutoff thru 241 to heater control
      DG/BK---707---From A/C relay to PCM---hot at all times
      DG/DB---716---From A/C low pressure cutoff thru 241 to A/C high pressure switch
      BR---867---From A/C high pressure cutoff thru 241 to PCM

      1.8L C202---Black
      BK---59---provides alternate path to ground for HO2S, Neutral switch, PCM power relay, etc...
      BR/W---285---From PCM thru 202 to DRL module
      DG---351---From BOO switch thru 202 to PCM---PCM sees 12V with brake pedal down
      BR/Y---82---From CPPS thru 202 to PCM---PCM sees continuity to ground
      DB/Y---113--- From power steering pressure switch thru 202 to PCM---PCM sees continuity to ground
      O/DB---726---From PCM thru 202 to Warning chime module
      BK/Y---160---From "meter" fuse thru 202 to PCM---Hot in run or start
      DB/R---330--- From "Room" fuse thru 202 to PCM---Hot in run or start
      R/BK---301---From PCM thru 202 to park lamp relay---hot at all times
      BK/DB---661---From interior fuse panel thru 202 to PCM

      1.8L C201---White (C241)
      BK/O---163---from gauge temp sensor thru 201 to to coolant gauge
      DG/BK---707---from A/C high pressure cutoff thru 201 to PCM
      DG/DB or BK/DB---706---from A/C LO pressure thru 201 to A/C hi pressure cutoff
      BK/PK---102---From the fuel pump relay thru 201 thru S228 to fuel pump module
      Y/BK---129---From "MIL"thru 201 to ECU
      DB/BK---702--- From A/C relay thru 201 to PCM---PCM provides ground to activate relay
      BK/DG---713---From PCM thru S201 thru C201 thru S216 to A/C relay---From S216 to cooling fan relay---Fan coolant temp switch provides ground path to activate fan relay and PCM wire is a signal wire
      DG/R or BK/R---704--- From heater control thru 201 to A/C low pressure cutoff
      Y/DB---73---From DI module thru S119 thru 201 to tachometer

      Repinning/Matching the wires up: Now its time to list what wires get matched up, and which wires I did not use. Please note that you are not moving any wires on the 1.9L body harness connectors, only moving wires on the 1.8L engine harness connectors. The connector list goes like this: 1.8L wire color---wire number---1.9L wire color---wire number

      1.8L C202---Black---1.9L C202
      BK---59---999---BK/DG
      BR/W---285---Not used*****DRL module, only useful for people in Canada
      DG---351---Splice wire from DG wire on BOO switch connector to wire 351
      BR/Y---82---82---BR/Y---Splice wire from LG/BK wire on CPPS connector to ground
      DB/Y---113---Not Used*****I am not running power steering, but you may choose to splice a wire from the pump to this wire if your running P/S---signal wire
      O/DB---726---Not Used*****I did not run it since i did not fully understand its function
      BK/Y---160---Splice wire from BK/Y wire under fuse box, behind the kick panel to wire 160
      DB/R---330---330---DB/R
      R/BK---301---Not Used***** I did not feel this was necessary, but you can run a wire from the park lamp relay if you want---signal wire
      BK/DB---661---Not Used***** Another wire that I did not understand its function

      1.8L C201---White---1.9L C241
      BK/O---163---163---BK/O---Coolant temp gauge will read higher then normal due to differences between sensors/gauge clusters, but it will work if you have no other option. I recommend an aftermarket coolant temp gauge for better accuracy.
      DG/BK---707---867---BR
      DG/DB or BK/DB---706---716---DG/DB
      BK/PK---102---102---BK/PK---Splice this wire or use old wire from 1.9L harness to connect to the second 102 BK/PK wire
      Y/BK---129---129---Y/BK
      DB/BK---702---702---DB/BK
      BK/DG---713---*****Special instructions----See below for explanation
      DG/R or BK/R---704---704---DG/R
      Y/DB---73---73---Y/DB

      Wire splicing/making the cooling fan and A/C work correctly: If you are not running A/C just ignore the wires having to do with it and just deal with the cooling fan stuff.
      BK/DG---713: This wire is in the 1.8L engine harness and already spliced to the PCM, but does not exist in the 1.9L body harness.
      The 1.8L fuse box contains the cooling fan relay and all wires exist except the ground trigger wire for it to operate. You will need to run a new wire into the large white connector at the right of the fuse box when you are facing it. There is a open spot in this connector to add another wire directly behind the large LG/BK wire. Simply use a female blade connector that is the same size as the others, bend the little tab down that sticks up in the middle of it and insert it into the slot until you hear it "click" and give it a little tug to make sure its secure. Now run this wire along your engine harness until you reach the wire coming from the coolant fan temp switch (BK/DG) and splice it in. To test your connection simply turn the key to RUN and ground the wire you ran from the relay, and the low speed cooling fan should engage.
      <<<<<<<SEE PICTURE BELOW>>>>>>>>


      The A/C High pressure Cutout switch: This is located behind the left (driver headlight) on the A/C line. It is a round 4 wire connector and you need to switch 2 wires inside the connector. To do this simply unplug it, remove the red colored insert in the middle and release the 2 wires that need moved to switch them<<<<<<<SEE DIAGRAM BELOW>>>>>>>>


      Now after you have moved the 2 wires in the pressure switch, follow the white wire down to a junction in the fender near the airbox, also going from this junction you will also notice there is a black box with wires going to it bolted in this area. remove the bolt to make it easier to work with the wires. This box is actually your High and Low speed cooling fan relays that your 1.9L harness used. The white wire you traced down to the junction needs to be cut in half. The side going to the hi pressure cutout switch need to be spliced to the R/BK wire going to the Hi speed cooling fan relay so it can activate it when needed. The other end of the white wire needs to be spliced into the wire you ran earlier into your fuse box to ground your cooling fan relay. This turns on your cooling fan when the A/C relay is engaged, but YOU MUST USE A DIODE IN LINE from the white wire to the wire for your cooling fan relay. This allows your A/C to turn on and activate your cooling fan but prevents the coolant fan temp switch from activating your A/C relay. I simply used a LED to accomplish this task since it was all I had, and since its only a ground wire, there is no need to wire in a resistor for the LED, plus the side benefit is if the system is working correctly and current is flowing in the right direction, the LED will light up letting you know its working.<<<<<<<<SEE TWO PICTURES BELOW>>>>>>>>>



      The next part that need to be wire up is the A/C relay. On the far right (passenger) side of the car located on the firewall you will see 2 relays next to each other. When you facing them, the one on the right is the WOT cutout relay, and the other is the A/C relay. Remove both of them and find the white wire going to the A/C relay, then find the DB/BK wire going to the WOT relay. Cut the DB/BK wire in half and make sure you leave enough length coming out of the relay in case you want to use this later. The other end of the DB/BK wire needs to spliced into the white wire. After you have done that bolt the 2 relays back on the firewall and your done. *********Because the 1.9L utilized a WOT cutout relay for the A/C, it would be a simple matter to attach a WOT ground trigger to the length of wire (DB/BK) you left coming out of the WOT relay to make it work for the 1.8L. I will write this up later after I figure out a good way to activate it.<<<<<<<<<SEE PIC BELOW>>>>>>>>>


      The rest of the pictures below are just showing the different splices I had mentioned earlier

      This picture is showing the splice to the BOO switch under the dash:


      This next picture is showing the splice made to the CPPS switch under the dash:


      This picture is showing the splice under the fuse box for the "Meter" fuse to the PCM:




      Last edited by KAinjection; 09-29-2011, 08:00 PM.
      92 Mazda MX3 GS> For sale, $1750 OBO
      94 Escort wagon--BP swap coming, VF10 Turbo, COP, EVO ECU, 03 ZX2 front end conversion
      "Hold yourself accountable before you are held accountable"
      EV14 330cc@3Bar injector kits available.
      EV14 GT500 injector kits available for the BP. 610cc@3Bar.
      EV14 925cc@3Bar injector kits available
      BP Forged H beam rods available now
      KL Forged H beam rods available now
      K8/KF Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
      FS Forged H beam rods
      awaiting test fit
      F2 Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
      FE3 Forged H beam rods coming soon
      Mitsubishi 3.8 MIVEC rods coming soon
      Aluminum CAS/Distributor caps
      BP oil jet eliminators
      EV14 fuel rail spacers
      More stuff coming soon.......

      Comment


        #4
        reving like crazy could be a vac leak, throttle cable tension, or possibly bad IAC valve...don't really seeing it being the IAC if it's at 3 k tho lol...

        car looks nice btw, I've always liked that lighter color green
        -Jack

        ONTARIO MAZDA CLUB! Join! https://www.facebook.com/groups/500055016671733/

        91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
        http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...my-GD-626-LX-)

        01 E53 3.0i - FOR SALE! pm if interested

        91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
        http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46606

        Comment


          #5
          Interior How-to and pics

          First up are the canadian seat belts:















          I dont feel much of a how-to is needed for these, but pictures and my description should be able to get you thru this as its very easy to do.
          First thing to do is remove all traces of your annoying motorized belts. You need the canadian headliner to make it look 100% correct, but unless you live close to canada its not really an option, but fortunately there is an alternative: I used the plastic from above the door and trimmed it till it just fit under the canadian A and B pillar trim pieces. All the holes to mount these are already on the car. You do need to tap 1 hole where the seat belt bolts to the b-pillar, because ford decided to put the hole there but not tap it. You also need to make a discrete hole in the carpet for the bar that attaches to the floor, but don't worry, the hole in the body is already there just remove the plug. The plastic trim where the lap belt came out of the floor will no longer work and need to be modified to fit.

          Next item is my MX3 interior swap details and how I made the MX3/Pro climate controls work in an escort. These pics are old, as in back in 07. My cars interior is a little different now.

          Here is a parts list for everything I have:

          Trim panel under steering column, and power mirror delete panel otherwise there will be a big hole.
          Center stack with trim piece that covers climate control and radio. The stack requires some trimming in the back to fit
          Front section of center console
          Rear section of center console
          Shifter trim and shift boot
          Glove box
          Blower motor cover and support bar
          Trim panels that go behind stack and cover wiring, ECU etc...
          Both kick panels, but they require some trimming. I just matched them up to the escort ones and started cutting
          Black rubber trim around door
          MX3 seats, rails, and rear trim covers that go on rails














          Couple of things to note on installing the plastics:
          Center stack requires trimming in the back, and kick panels require trimming. In both cases just use the escort pieces as templates for what needs to be cut.
          To install the plastic that goes under the column requires bending some of the metal dash frame with some pliers.




          The wiring for installing a MX3/Pro panel and MX3/Pro A/C switch in a 95 LX. ****YOU ESCORT WIRING MAY VARY DEPENDING ON THE YEAR****
          MX3 wiring schematic.



          You will have to move the pins around in you ford harness so the end result is this from left to right and top to bottom> *the L for color on the schematic is represented as B on my description*


          R/B---R---?-------B/Y---B
          BLK-------B/R-------B/W


          R/B and R-----illumination
          ?----I didn't use it
          B/Y----fan 1
          B----fan 2
          BLK----Ground
          B/R----fan 3
          B/W----fan 4


          MX3/Pro A/C switch to Ford wiring> (A/C to Escort)


          -B/Y to B/Y fan 1 on ford harness
          -G/R to G/R for A/C on (A/C cycle switch)
          -GY to DB/DG for A/C indicator
          * do not worry about the illum wires on the Pro switch because it does not light up.

          Video for escort with Vacuum controlled recirc:



          Bend the metal piece up so that it looks like a ramp to activate the vacuum switch just like the escort panel does.
          Last edited by KAinjection; 03-02-2012, 11:09 PM.
          92 Mazda MX3 GS> For sale, $1750 OBO
          94 Escort wagon--BP swap coming, VF10 Turbo, COP, EVO ECU, 03 ZX2 front end conversion
          "Hold yourself accountable before you are held accountable"
          EV14 330cc@3Bar injector kits available.
          EV14 GT500 injector kits available for the BP. 610cc@3Bar.
          EV14 925cc@3Bar injector kits available
          BP Forged H beam rods available now
          KL Forged H beam rods available now
          K8/KF Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
          FS Forged H beam rods
          awaiting test fit
          F2 Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
          FE3 Forged H beam rods coming soon
          Mitsubishi 3.8 MIVEC rods coming soon
          Aluminum CAS/Distributor caps
          BP oil jet eliminators
          EV14 fuel rail spacers
          More stuff coming soon.......

          Comment


            #6
            K-sport coilovers and RX7 ball joint discovery

            I just got these today (10/3/08) and had to try and take pictures in the dark...
            These are K-sport coilovers, made for a Mazda 323 BG. K-sport personally set-up and installed them for me to test fit them for a production Escort coilover. The front had to have spacers for the spindle mount because they ordered 323 GTR coilovers, but the rear is a 100% bolt-in affair. They took measurements of the front spindle and stock strut so they could make a Escort specific coilover soon. They will be giving me the updated parts once they get them done. They will be adding them to their application catalog. They will be willing to do a group buy as well, or you all can just order them individually when they are available, but if you can't wait for them, just buy the 323 BG coilovers.

            <<As of 2012, I have put 35K plus miles on these and they are still holding up fine, no leaks and no issues>>








            RX-7 Ball Joint discovery (3/9/08)
            I discovered something while researching for another project at the junkyard today. A 2nd Gen RX7 lower ball joint will bolt up to a BG lower control arm. The ball joint only fits the 3rd gen escort spindle unfortunatly, sorry 2nd gens. The ball joint end is 17.9mm for a 2nd gen RX7, 2nd gen Probe/MX6, and a 3rd gen escort. The 2nd gen escort is 15.9mm. The advantage to all this is the RX7 ball joint is longer by a 1/2" or 12.7mm (approx) there by increasing front track and negative camber, slightly lighter weight (depending where you get them) and the stud is longer moving the joint lower thereby improving your roll center slightly on a lowered car. The second gen guys could just swap for 3rd gen knuckles





            Last edited by KAinjection; 03-07-2012, 11:56 PM.
            92 Mazda MX3 GS> For sale, $1750 OBO
            94 Escort wagon--BP swap coming, VF10 Turbo, COP, EVO ECU, 03 ZX2 front end conversion
            "Hold yourself accountable before you are held accountable"
            EV14 330cc@3Bar injector kits available.
            EV14 GT500 injector kits available for the BP. 610cc@3Bar.
            EV14 925cc@3Bar injector kits available
            BP Forged H beam rods available now
            KL Forged H beam rods available now
            K8/KF Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
            FS Forged H beam rods
            awaiting test fit
            F2 Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
            FE3 Forged H beam rods coming soon
            Mitsubishi 3.8 MIVEC rods coming soon
            Aluminum CAS/Distributor caps
            BP oil jet eliminators
            EV14 fuel rail spacers
            More stuff coming soon.......

            Comment


              #7
              make sure the air meter is tuned properly.
              sigpic

              03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
              92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

              Comment


                #8
                Car is Running!

                Progress!!

                It appears that I have multiple problems. First problem was the dim always lit check engine light, and after tracing every wire to make sure I didnt put anything in the wrong place, checked all my grounds to the ECU, and double checked that the MIL is wired exactly the same between the LX and GT, I came to the conclusion that the ECU is toast. I went to 4 junkyards and finally found a BP10 from a protege, brought it home, plugged it in and MIL is nice and bright and the engine runs way smoother.

                Second problem with the Idle shooting up now to 4K RPM within seconds of starting it. I removed the throttle cable/ and readjusted it looser to make sure, and still the same, unplugged the IAC, still the same, Pinched off the air line going to the IAC, no change, checked all vacuum lines for leaks, and nothing. Something is telling me when i removed the intake and opened it to cut it, I may have got a gasket messed up or something pinched between when i reassembled it, or the injector o-rings are not sealing, but I think the intake is messed up somewhere.

                More Progress and a Solution!

                Turns out after taking the intake manifold off and resealing it with new gaskets, that was not the problem. Still doing it. I finally found the problem though and it was so simple.

                The vacuum check valve for the cruise control was backwards, activating the cruise control after I started it and causing it to rev up, but I never did see this until i looked at the foot pedal today and saw it moving back after I shut the car off.


                Finally able to drive it! Thanks for the suggestions guys.
                Last edited by KAinjection; 03-02-2012, 10:26 PM.
                92 Mazda MX3 GS> For sale, $1750 OBO
                94 Escort wagon--BP swap coming, VF10 Turbo, COP, EVO ECU, 03 ZX2 front end conversion
                "Hold yourself accountable before you are held accountable"
                EV14 330cc@3Bar injector kits available.
                EV14 GT500 injector kits available for the BP. 610cc@3Bar.
                EV14 925cc@3Bar injector kits available
                BP Forged H beam rods available now
                KL Forged H beam rods available now
                K8/KF Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
                FS Forged H beam rods
                awaiting test fit
                F2 Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
                FE3 Forged H beam rods coming soon
                Mitsubishi 3.8 MIVEC rods coming soon
                Aluminum CAS/Distributor caps
                BP oil jet eliminators
                EV14 fuel rail spacers
                More stuff coming soon.......

                Comment


                  #9
                  dunno, just reminded me of how one of my old GTs ran with an untuned B-code. I don't know about the regular exhintake swap, but when I put in my exhintake regrinds the car had a fairly decent lope to it...
                  sigpic

                  03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
                  92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

                  Comment


                    #10
                    no need to tune. My 323 has both those mods and a header and I have an untuned u code vaf. No problems at all with my setup.
                    My family has lots of bg's!
                    2003 Ford Escort ZX2: Project car/future daily driver. Built Ford Tough (With Mazda Stuff)
                    1999 Escort ZX2: Daily driver/beater. Going to be replaced by the '03 next summer.
                    2000 Escort ZX2 S/R: bought wrecked, going to use as parts car
                    1992 Protege LX: My old race car. Just a wrecked shell right now. Waiting for scrap to go up so that I can get rid of it.
                    1992 Mazda 323: Race car
                    1992 Escort Gt: My grandpa's old race car
                    1994 Escort GT: My grandpa's new race car.
                    Parts cars; 1993 Escort Gt, 1995 Escort lx

                    Comment


                      #11
                      For Future Reference

                      Also, since I am was trying to think of a way to run RX7 balljoints with Jims control arms, I was trying to find a tie rod end from another car that would be longer and thread onto the escort inners to allow them to be adjusted enough to account for the extra length of the balljoint on the longer arm and found this handy guide for Moog tie rod ends:

                      http://www.moog-suspension-parts.com...e_Rod_Ends.asp

                      I found the Escort tie rod dimensions.

                      Moog ES3048RL

                      Length Dimension A: 3.120"
                      Rod Threads Dimension B: M12-1.25R
                      Configuration: Bent
                      Rod Type: Female
                      Stud Diameter Dimension C: .517"
                      Stud Diameter Dimension D: .591"
                      Stud Thread Dimension F: M12-1.25


                      For the protege/323/mx3 people your tie rod end is shorter then the escort, and all other dimensions are equal.

                      ES2820 FC RX-7
                      Length Rod Thread Dimensions Configuration Rod End Type Stud Small Taper Stud Large Taper Stud Thread Dimensions
                      3.66 M12-1.2RI Straight Female .500 .551 M12-1.25
                      ES3403 BG Kia Sephia
                      Part Dimensions
                      Length Rod Thread Dimensions Configuration Rod End Type Stud Small Taper Stud Large Taper Stud Thread Dimensions
                      4.25 M14-1.5 Straight Female .506 .590 M12-1.25

                      MX3 Endlink length (Approx)

                      Rears: 3-3/16"

                      MX6 links about 5/16" longer and confirmed to work.
                      Last edited by KAinjection; 03-01-2013, 04:37 PM.
                      92 Mazda MX3 GS> For sale, $1750 OBO
                      94 Escort wagon--BP swap coming, VF10 Turbo, COP, EVO ECU, 03 ZX2 front end conversion
                      "Hold yourself accountable before you are held accountable"
                      EV14 330cc@3Bar injector kits available.
                      EV14 GT500 injector kits available for the BP. 610cc@3Bar.
                      EV14 925cc@3Bar injector kits available
                      BP Forged H beam rods available now
                      KL Forged H beam rods available now
                      K8/KF Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
                      FS Forged H beam rods
                      awaiting test fit
                      F2 Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
                      FE3 Forged H beam rods coming soon
                      Mitsubishi 3.8 MIVEC rods coming soon
                      Aluminum CAS/Distributor caps
                      BP oil jet eliminators
                      EV14 fuel rail spacers
                      More stuff coming soon.......

                      Comment


                        #12
                        you can always check the plugs. That will tell you a little.
                        My family has lots of bg's!
                        2003 Ford Escort ZX2: Project car/future daily driver. Built Ford Tough (With Mazda Stuff)
                        1999 Escort ZX2: Daily driver/beater. Going to be replaced by the '03 next summer.
                        2000 Escort ZX2 S/R: bought wrecked, going to use as parts car
                        1992 Protege LX: My old race car. Just a wrecked shell right now. Waiting for scrap to go up so that I can get rid of it.
                        1992 Mazda 323: Race car
                        1992 Escort Gt: My grandpa's old race car
                        1994 Escort GT: My grandpa's new race car.
                        Parts cars; 1993 Escort Gt, 1995 Escort lx

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Check the air meter wiring, we had an issue with that- are you using a 4-wire TPS?

                          Depending on how you have the fan wired, you should be able to test it by unplugging the connector and grounding it out- that's actually how mine is right now... I've been too lazy to put in the new sensor so it's grounded to the battery and runs whenever the key is turned to on.

                          The GT and LX temp gauges are actually the same (assuming the LX had a sport cluster with the tach), it's actually the cluster itself that's different. Honestly, though, I'd recommend getting a real temp gauge and using that instead since the stock gauge is a glorified idiot light that tells you when you overheated your car...
                          sigpic

                          03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
                          92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

                          Comment


                            #14
                            convert the stock guage into a linear guage. Don't waste money on an aftermarket guage.
                            My family has lots of bg's!
                            2003 Ford Escort ZX2: Project car/future daily driver. Built Ford Tough (With Mazda Stuff)
                            1999 Escort ZX2: Daily driver/beater. Going to be replaced by the '03 next summer.
                            2000 Escort ZX2 S/R: bought wrecked, going to use as parts car
                            1992 Protege LX: My old race car. Just a wrecked shell right now. Waiting for scrap to go up so that I can get rid of it.
                            1992 Mazda 323: Race car
                            1992 Escort Gt: My grandpa's old race car
                            1994 Escort GT: My grandpa's new race car.
                            Parts cars; 1993 Escort Gt, 1995 Escort lx

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Racerboy View Post
                              you can always check the plugs. That will tell you a little.
                              I was actually already planning on this, the first one is black as coal, so its rich....

                              Originally posted by atomicEGT View Post
                              Check the air meter wiring, we had an issue with that- are you using a 4-wire TPS?

                              Depending on how you have the fan wired, you should be able to test it by unplugging the connector and grounding it out- that's actually how mine is right now... I've been too lazy to put in the new sensor so it's grounded to the battery and runs whenever the key is turned to on.

                              The GT and LX temp gauges are actually the same (assuming the LX had a sport cluster with the tach), it's actually the cluster itself that's different. Honestly, though, I'd recommend getting a real temp gauge and using that instead since the stock gauge is a glorified idiot light that tells you when you overheated your car...
                              No, I have a 3 wire TPS.

                              I was going to check this also actually, since the 1.9L ECU provides the ground to activate the cooling fan thru C202(Black) for both hi and low speed, and the 1.8L uses the coolant switch to activate the fan thru C201(White) for only one speed, I will connect the wire from the coolant temp switch in C201 to C202 for the hi speed wire and I am hoping it should work.

                              Yeah mine has the sport cluster, and while I was looking in the schematic the 2 diodes and 1 resister that have arrows pointing to them saying "1.9L ONLY" I was assuming that it was part of the gauge. I was planning on getting the Prosport green coolant temp gauge anyway, and I dont like the idea of driving with no indication of the temp, so I guess that settles that.
                              92 Mazda MX3 GS> For sale, $1750 OBO
                              94 Escort wagon--BP swap coming, VF10 Turbo, COP, EVO ECU, 03 ZX2 front end conversion
                              "Hold yourself accountable before you are held accountable"
                              EV14 330cc@3Bar injector kits available.
                              EV14 GT500 injector kits available for the BP. 610cc@3Bar.
                              EV14 925cc@3Bar injector kits available
                              BP Forged H beam rods available now
                              KL Forged H beam rods available now
                              K8/KF Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
                              FS Forged H beam rods
                              awaiting test fit
                              F2 Forged H beam rods awaiting test fit
                              FE3 Forged H beam rods coming soon
                              Mitsubishi 3.8 MIVEC rods coming soon
                              Aluminum CAS/Distributor caps
                              BP oil jet eliminators
                              EV14 fuel rail spacers
                              More stuff coming soon.......

                              Comment

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