Originally posted by goldstar
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Megan Lateral Links installed
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^ Yes, thank you for the correction.
I'll go back and change it.
Happy Motoring!02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter
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goldstar, thanks very much for adding the tourqe specs.
speed, so far so good. I really like them. They handle much better than the oem's.
the only thing about these vs the aac ones is the megans dont have the adjustments to pull the wheel in. They are the same length as the stockers. They do have the add adjustability of toe which is good.
If you're looking for an upgrade in handling and not too worried about pulling in the wheels, then these will work just fine.
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Originally posted by o.g.sk8er View Postgoldstar, thanks very much for adding the tourqe specs.
I'd also like to point out that this thread is also a good tutorial for those replacing their stock rear stabilizer bar with the MSP/MP3 type. Bar replacement requires also replacing the rear subframe with a new one, included as part of the MSP rear stabilizer bar kit. This thread provides a How-To for that proceedure.
The gift that keeps on giving.
Happy Motoring!02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter
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im confused.... why would you want to pull the wheels inwards???---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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with some of the more aggressive set ups that have low offset wheels, its nessessary to pull the rear wheel inward to avoid any rubbing. the rears of the p5s are quite narrow so an adjustable lateral link kit may be needed for some.
and yes goldstar is correct. this can double for a how to for installing the rear sway as well. indeed the gift that keeps on giving.
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None of that is "proper". Changing track width isn't the way to do things.... then again super slammed isn't either lol---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---
1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi
I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it
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