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'96 Protege 1.5L Z5 Auto - Floaty idle, occasionally leads to stalling.

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    #31
    Yes, but I was a year old so I don't remember such an event. Sounds really cool though.

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      #32
      And school was closed for a week, hahaha

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        #33
        test drove the car for a good 20 minutes before work, ran fine.
        The moment I arrive to work it stalls out...

        Guess I will be replacing the sensor after all and I am really hoping that the sensor is bad

        Ugh

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          #34
          Originally posted by smokstac
          Do you have access to a vacuum gauge?
          No, but I could get one. I'm going to harbor frieght tomorrow to pick up some things anyway. What did you have in mind? Testing the fuel pressure?

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            #35
            So I'm impatiently waiting for my new crank sensor to arrive and I figure "I should check my fuses, just in case" and I discovered two things that may be of interest:

            1) I'm missing two fuses, one for ABS and one for "St. Sign"
            The ABS one, holy ****. That seems like a major safety concern, something I think the car should warn the user about through a check engine light. The "St. Sign" one has something to do with the starter system. I can't find much on it, but I have run fine without it all this time and so have some other owners of Proteges and Miatas. I'm going to get replacements for both before I take it on the road again, mostly for safety because the ABS fuse.

            Pic of fuse box and missing fuses: http://i.imgur.com/3K3mX.jpg

            2) The ignition fuse looks kind of blue/worn. Think it could be part of my stalling issue if it's failing? But fuses don't gradually fail to my knowledge.

            Pic of ignition fuse: http://i.imgur.com/VPqcN.jpg

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              #36
              Does your car have ABS?

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                #37
                Originally posted by irishkev90 View Post
                Does your car have ABS?
                Yep, just double checked to make sure I didn't look like an idiot

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                  #38
                  Haha, just making sure. Does your ABS light come on when the key is in the ON position before starting the engine?

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                    #39
                    It does not.
                    Also, upon further inspection, there is no electrode for the St. Sign fuse to slot into. It must be listed on the diagram for no reason. There is just plastic there.

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                      #40
                      the abs system has it's own diagnostics and check light ( hence not tied to the check engine ) i am willing to bet that you will have an always-on abs warning light the moment you replace the fuse that the previous owner took out. BTW non- functioning abs in an abs equipped car IS NOT a safety issue . the brakes will operate normally the same as any non-abs car.


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                        #41
                        Originally posted by MazdaNoob View Post
                        the abs system has it's own diagnostics and check light ( hence not tied to the check engine ) i am willing to bet that you will have an always-on abs warning light the moment you replace the fuse that the previous owner took out. BTW non- functioning abs in an abs equipped car IS NOT a safety issue . the brakes will operate normally the same as any non-abs car.
                        I know the brakes would work fine, but I was just thinking if I ever needed ABS. I'll be pretty pissed if it was removed to hide a problem with it.

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                          #42
                          Finally got my new crank sensor and put it in. A few test drives (relatively rough test drives) with breaks in between, car is running well. Time will tell, but I am very hopeful.

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                            #43
                            Well so far the new sensor seems to be working great but this morning I had a check engine light. Got it read at Advance and it's the same crank sensor code, P0335. The first time I had the code a few months ago, it was followed by stuttering acceleration. I didn't have any of that this time. Had Advance clear the code but once I started the car again to leave, it came back a few seconds after starting the car. No symptoms what so ever.

                            I'm starting to think there might be a short some place or something electrical between the sensor and computer? What is the strangest to me is that the old sensor never threw codes after the very first time. The car is running just fine.

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                              #44
                              Talked to one of my mechanics, he thinks the computer might have to relearn the variances in the new sensor. I'm looking for how that is started or if I just have a drive it and it will learn over time.

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by agentdax5 View Post
                                Well so far the new sensor seems to be working great but this morning I had a check engine light. Got it read at Advance and it's the same crank sensor code, P0335. The first time I had the code a few months ago, it was followed by stuttering acceleration. I didn't have any of that this time. Had Advance clear the code but once I started the car again to leave, it came back a few seconds after starting the car. No symptoms what so ever.

                                I'm starting to think there might be a short some place or something electrical between the sensor and computer? What is the strangest to me is that the old sensor never threw codes after the very first time. The car is running just fine.
                                I am particularly interested in this state of your post lol. Considering I posted a thread about this issue and my CEL is STILL on....replaced the sensor....had mechanics check the wiring...still CEL is on....they seem to think i need to replace my computer but I doubt it since i replaced something that took one code off a few weeks before i replaced this sensor. Keep us posed on this situation.

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