What did you do to your BG(part 8)

[boosted94]

Pulled the crank, all main bearings are gouged. Thrust washers are gouged. Clutch is toasted. Flywheel is cracked.

New oil pump, water pump, clutch, and flywheel are on their way.

[Kitty]

I did this to the clutch slave yesterday.


Other than reducing the life of this clutch/TOB driving it home and having to tap a sheared bolt out of the trans it's still better than what I originally thought the problem was.

[Kitty]

Threw the Motegi wheels with inspection worthy all seasons on the BG.



I didn't check the alignment before swapping them but I had about half an inch of toe out when I did my initial measurements for adjustment. Got it to ~.125 toe in three adjustments. One full rotation on each tie rod is about .326 inches of toe adjustment on my car.

[Dixie94Pro]

Today we got two packages [emoji14]



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[93BlkOnGreenPro]

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[boosted94]

Cleaned, decked, honed, new core plugs. Bores within 0.001". Assembly coming soon.

[FE3-323]

keep the bores lightly oiled!!! (if they aren't already)

[boosted94]

Yes sir!

[Kitty]

Ordered a new control arm bolt to fix an issue I created on my 1.5k mile road trip. I was hoping to get it form the local ford dealer but they apparently don't support 20 year old vehicles that aren't mustangs or panther platform.

Fixed the accessory belt squeal.

Noticed I separated the passenger rear speaker wiring when I had a bumper in the car. Waiting for fancy new soldering iron to come in.

Still running on my drilled penny fixed clutch slave. I'm quite impressed it's done 2k miles so far and the clutch pedal feels great. Finally got a useable new slave in, installing the weekend.



I also got the 240 running again after 5 years of sitting in a storage unit being abused by rats and rust.

[Kitty]

Through some bit of dumb luck and possible engineering foresight it's JUST possible to fit a smaller sized nut cracker in the control arm nut access point and lock down the nut that has broken loose from it's retention bracket.



This made separating my cross threaded control arm bolt quite easy. I replaced the damaged nut with one who's original home was a strut knuckle which had a higher profile that was much easier to get a wrench on for tightening.
I was going to tack weld the old retention bracket to the new nut but the access area is below my skill level and patience. Checking on the bolt will be added to the oil change to-do list.

[FE3-323]

a 17mm wrench should fit in the recess.

[Kitty]

A closed in wrench will fit and what I used to torque the new bolt down with. But it doesn't get good leverage on the short factory nut, especially one that's been cross threaded and slightly rounded head due to it breaking from it's bracket, unless you've got what would have to be a perfectly designed double offset 17mm.

[Kitty]

I don't think the steering wheel was on true center when I bought the car and I didn't help the situation on my multiple steering wheel removals to get the Nardi wheel perfect.
So I spent a good hour today getting the steering wheel zeroed to the rack by equaling the lock to lock point.


I started with an abysmal 1.5" to ~3" difference.

And ended with ~2.20 to ~2.30 difference.


My measurements and method were fairly crude so the slight discrepancy isn't surprising. Any notch in either direction would has a worse variance so there is no way this isn't on perfectly.
My steering wheel is an alarming 40º off center when tracking straight now. It explains why my car when aligned proper is out of factory tie rod adjustment specs.


I also cleaned up my EDM vents. The passenger side will go on soon, driver side will wait until the next time I have to pull the cluster cowl.

[me109]

Aren't you going to have to pull the cluster cowl to gain access to the passenger-side vents?

[FamiliaGT]

Went through the touchless carwash and nearly ripped my drivers side manual side view mirror off! Now it doesn't line up or adjust haha! My Passenger sides already broke, but I guess its time to throw on my JDM mirrors.