What did you do to your BG(part 8)

[Mazda_Powered]

looked at mine covered in about 1/2" of pure ice

[Kitty]

I had two injectors with leaky o-rings. While replacing I ran some sea-foam through them. I would of liked to replace the filters but I hadn't planned that far ahead. I don't remember if they were off the original motor or the junkyard one. Idle has greatly improved although I have a different vac leak now. I reassembled the intake mani really badly(had too long of bolts on the underside so i had to swap them out and didn't losen all of them so I'm sure that's the cause. I'll probably get a new intake gasket before I do that as the one on there was not looking the best anyway.

Trouble shot my EDM brights. All signs point to one of the additional relays I have in the system but the relay tests perfect. It's really quite the predicament. I should really just redo the entire wiring with just one relay. But I have too many projects that take priority.

[FE3-323]

^ why did you rewire the headlight system just for EDM's?

[Kitty]

Jesse did it before I bought it.


Perhaps he was/had done HIDs at some point. I do like the fact there is 12 gauge running to the headlights direct from the battery. I thought my column switch was broken but that wasn't the case either. Lose ground somewhere I guess.

[Kitty]

Tried to replace front main today, wrong seal. Joy.

Cam seals look to be in the worse shape, replacing them presently. Debating if I want to pull the cams and clean out the HLA's.

On a tightness check on the oil pan i found one bolt by the crank pulley doesn't actually do anything meaningful. debating how i want to fix that. Either I'll throw some filler in it or run a longer bolt with epoxyed nut on the other side. I did "luck out" with the particular bolt as the repair will be rather easy.

[Kitty]

They sure aren't joking in the FSM when they say to set the Timing belt tension pulley 1/6 turn from TDC.

I was a dirtbag and just set it a TDC.



I wanted to redo that timing belt again anyway.

I'm getting really efficient at it.

[ThatGreenBG]

Indexed my spark plugs while messing around with other crap. Oddly enough, it seems to have made a difference. Maybe it's just the placebo effect, but the power delivery now feels smooth and linear, not strained and mediocre like before. It was like the engine wasn't harmonizing, but now it feels awesome and pulls (as hard as 80hp can pull) strongly to redline.

[atomicEGT]

got most of the way through replacing my heater core today. all that's left is reinstalling some of the trim panels, the seats and center console, and bleeding the coolant system.

not as hard as I was expecting, though dropping the dash on my hand when I tripped on the center tunnel pretty much sucked.

the guides on FEOA were surprisingly helpful. weird.

[atomicEGT]

aaaaaaaaaand still no heat.

amazing.

radiator gets hot, upper rad hose is hot, both heater core hoses are cold. **** everything.

[shorestiva]

Has the water pump been replaced? I had a Taurus come through the shop had no heat. Did same thing everything was hot but cold heater hoses. Ended up being the vanes on the water pump were worn off.

[atomicEGT]

replaced water pump, radiator, and t-stat a few months ago.

[atomicEGT]

copypasta from TeamZX2:

history:
-heat was a bit on the weak side when I got the car, PO told me heater core was replaced a year or so before. could watch temp gauge needle waggle back and forth with heat on while driving.

-replaced water pump and radiator due to leaks, replaced thermostat around the same time. had to use Stant as the car was apart when I realized the one the dealer gave me was wrong. heat still weak after this, but temp gauge waggle went away after properly bleeding the system.

-reading threads here, checked hoses while car was warmed up and running: upper rad hose hot, hose from t-stat housing area to DS heater core hot, hose from PS heater core to rad cold/lukewarm- seemed to be random. windows constantly fogging up. this seemed to indicated a heater core issue, so I just replaced the heater core with a new Motorcraft one.

after finishing up, I started the car to get it to warm up- seemed to take a while to get the temperature to come up (though it is 13 degrees out), and the temp gauge needle didn't start to move until I revved the car a little (weird, because the rad and upper hose were both hot by this point). DS heater core hose was just barely warm to the touch, PS was cold. no heat coming from the vents. heater control cable from the HVAC unit is hooked up and seems to work correctly.

=====

just replaced T-stat with a Motorcraft unit (bleeder hole at 12:00 position) and re-bled system. no change.

[FE3-323]

i know its a crude fix.... but have you thrown cardboard infront of the radiator?

[atomicEGT]

not sure how that is going to solve my problem.

[atomicEGT]

in the half mile it took to get from my apartment to the highway, the car was up to operating temp, so I tried the heat. works perfectly. drove it for a while, checked for leaks and other bull****, no problems.

weird.