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    Installed Magnaflow Free-Flow Cat and More

    As noted in an earlier thread, my rear catalytic converter bit the dust so I bought a Magnaflow as replacement. I figured since I needed a new one why not get a less-restrictive type? Since I don't live in CA, I selected a 49-state version and within this group two models are offered: standard and OEM grade OBDII - both direct fit SS types. I chose OEM grade (same amount of platinum as contained within the factory fitment) to ensure that I won't have emission code problems in the future, although it is more expensive.
    MagnaFlow manufactures the best exhaust systems, mufflers, pipes and catalytic converters; now being sold directly from our website! We proudly manufacture products in the USA using premium components and the latest technology. Voted 2017 SEMA Manufacturer of the Year!


    I ordered from:

    Part #51737: Fits all '01-'03 2.0 L Proteges
    Cost: US $338.05, free shipping
    The cat, for some unaccountable reason, comes without gaskets and knowing this beforehand (I had called the seller to check), I had gone to Mazda to obtain them. So I was all set, or so I thought. The cat arrived Monday via FedEx and I installed it yesterday on my driveway with the help of a car tech friend.

    We raised the car and placed jackstands under the frame rails. I really dislike working under a car that way as I find it very uncomfortable, confining and cramped. But hey, a man's gotta do what a man's gotta do - you have to play the hand you're dealt. Once we dropped the cat, it was clear that the front pipe was in bad shape - corroded and with a bent flange. Sacre bleu, but I suppose that's to be expected on a 10 year old car based in the northeast. So off to find a new one. Which we did for US $125.66 including state theft. BTW, the gaskets in total came to about $30.

    Back to the car, removed the front pipe, and replaced it with the new one. Then we installed the cat. Everything fit perfectly so it truly was a direct fit, as stated.

    But wait, I'm not done yet. Some of you may recall goldstar's big adventure in Williamsburg, VA which I recounted on the Forum. At 350 miles from home, my shift lever detached from the change control rod leaving me shiftless and forced to make emergency repairs on the motel parking lot which I was able to do with the help of a kind, good samaritan. On arrival home, I replaced the nut and lock washer with a nylock self-locking nut. However, since I'm still haunted by that episode I do think about additional measures to take. Since the car was in the air (somewhat, so to speak), I removed the shift lever nylock nut, flat washer, and bolt, regreased the bolt, inserted it and cleaned off the threads. I then coated the threads with locktite blue, installed a new nylock and tightened the connection up to eliminate all play with no binding. I'm now confident that the nut will never loosen nor come off ever again.

    Then, we returned the car to earth and took it for a test ride.

    Driving Impressions
    Since it's sold as a free flow cat, I assumed, and was hoping, that the decreased backpressure might produce some performance gain but I wasn't sure since, unlike Racing Beat, Magnaflow provides no dyno data. But, from the moment I took off, I noticed an increase in acceleration both from a standing start and through the gears. Not overwhelming but enough to be noticeable. I'm also glad to say there was no increase in exhaust noise, something I thought might occur from a less-restrictive system, since the RB is loud enough, as is, for my taste.

    To top everything off, the shifting is even better than before with absolutely no play. Almost Formula 1-like in operation, it shifts like an eel in oil. No wonder so many people refer to my car as the penultimate driving machine.

    Final Thoughts
    I now have a low restiction SS exhaust system from the rear of the front pipe to the exhaust outlet. I'm wondering how much, if any, gain could be had from replacing the front cat with a Magnaflow type. Not that I would do it out of hand (current price for OEM grade = $375.04) but if it ever needed replacement that's the route I'd take.

    Tomorrow, I plan to take my car for state inspection. Let's hope the new cat won't let me down. I'll keep you posted.

    Happy Motoring!

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    Last edited by goldstar; 07-11-2012, 12:53 PM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    #2
    Great write up, as usual.

    I see a few rust spots going on there. It figures I guess given your location in our lower 48. It might be a good idea to check all the usual spots to see if you need to do some touch up. Drip rails, drain holes, bottom of trunk, front and rear window seats, to name a few. Just a thought.
    Last edited by 1st Gen; 07-11-2012, 12:52 PM.
    1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
    1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
    2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
    1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

    Comment


      #3
      Thanks for the kind words, Jon. That's a good idea to check the rust spots for possible remediation. I'll certainly take your advice.

      Happy Motoring!
      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

      Comment


        #4
        Great write up Mike, I am glad you found a solution that worked out so well.

        Rust whats that? Here in Texas we only see snow maybe twice a year
        The T3 BP MX-3 conversion has begun, and is taking forever & will kill me.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by D323 View Post
          Great write up Mike, I am glad you found a solution that worked out so well.

          Rust whats that? Here in Texas we only see snow maybe twice a year
          Thank you, Donnie, and thanks for pointing me in the direction of Magnaflow products since the cat worked out so well.

          Rust-wise, Texas certainly has its advantages and there are other advantages as well compared with NJ.

          Happy Motoring!
          02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
          MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
          MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
          Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
          MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
          Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
          Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
          Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
          Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
          Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
          Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
          Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
          Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

          Comment


            #6
            I took my car to my local NJ State Inspection Center and it passed the emissions test with ease. NJ vehicle inspections are biennial so the next inspection date for my car is July 2014. Since the facility is more than a wee distance from my home, I had a chance to further evaluate the performance with the new cat in various driving modes. No question that the car is noticeably peppier now. I would also expect a slight but noticeable improvement in fuel mileage at cruise. Which leads to the consideration that replacing the front cat with a high flow type would also be beneficial. Much as I'd like to experiment, the cost of a replacement cat for one that's still good is a bit too rich for my blood considering that I need to replace my front brakes very soon and then perhaps my timing belt in the not-too-distant future.

            Rant: NJ State Vehicle Inspections
            When my car was last inspected in 2010, the proceedure involved both a safety and emissions check. Lights, horn, tire condition, brakes and front end alignment were all inspected to ensure the vehicle was safe as well as non-polluting. Since then, the safety inspection has been completely eliminated allowing a much shorter inspection time and eliminating many of the testing personnel. Obviously a move on the part of the state to save money and understandable from that standpoint. However, IMO the wrong subset of tests was eliminated. Since some people don't give a fiddler's **** about the safety of their cars, or are not technically oriented enough to understand what's involved in maintaining a safe vehicle, the safety inspection served to compel individuals to remedy their vehicle's safety defects in order to keep their cars on the road. Elimination of safety inspections will surely result in more driving injuries and deaths statewide.

            Again, IMO, allowing emission testing to continue at the expense of safety is probably the result of making the politically correct, expedient choice that will have the unintended consequence of expanding the carnage, dismemberment, death and destruction occurring on our highways. Oh, the humanity. Better to eliminate emissions testing and keep the safety inspections in place. That would also allow us to screw around with our engines more.

            I mean some states don't even test for emissions.

            Happy Motoring!
            Last edited by goldstar; 07-12-2012, 05:37 PM.
            02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
            MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
            MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
            Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
            MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
            Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
            Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
            Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
            Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
            Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
            Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
            Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
            Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

            Comment


              #7
              Since it's going to be two years till the next inspection, you could do an interim trial of a front cat delete. I think this would be a very close simulation of what a hi-flow cat could offer.
              That way you could get a true estimation of the millage gained as well as performance studies in a number of weather and driving conditions. When the time comes you may decide that it doesn't hold the promise you once thought. Or---who knows?
              1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
              1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
              2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
              1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

              Comment


                #8
                ^
                Well, that's a thought, and it would yield some interesting data but I wouldn't deliberately disable a major emission control system on a daily driver. I had in mind something more like experimenting with different cams as those with longer duration and greater overlap would very likely affect emission figures negatively. Cams with greater overlap tend to reduce low-speed torque while increasing top end power but at least I'd have two years to compare the differences and enjoy the potential benefits (or decide if they were benefits) before I had to switch back to stock for testing purposes.

                Ideally, when making a cam change for increased top end performance, fitting HC pistons is a good idea (ala ZM-DE) to restore some of the low end power lost, but then we're talking major engine rebuild which I'm not prepared to do with my excellent, great running, reliable power plant. It's not coming apart unless it breaks.

                I've also toyed with the idea of using an external controller to lean out the A/F ratio at WOT in open loop from the pre-programmed super rich (for protective purposes) to the max power point which I'm sure would also have a negative effect on tested emission values. Such a move would be highly beneficial for my high speed passes on 2-lane country highways.

                Happy Motoring!
                02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                Comment


                  #9
                  thats a nice piece for an aftermarket replacement unit! glad to hear its as effective as it is pretty
                  ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                  1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                  I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                  he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Great write-up! I have nothing to do with a BJ chassis or powerplant, but I really enjoyed the review.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thank you, I'm glad it held your interest.

                      Happy Motoring!
                      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                      Comment


                        #12
                        cool update. just a random question; doesn't "penultimate" mean next to last? unless you intented a different meaning, it hardly sounds like a compliment for people to refer to something you've worked hard on for years and years.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by meGrimlock View Post
                          cool update. just a random question; doesn't "penultimate" mean next to last? unless you intented a different meaning, it hardly sounds like a compliment for people to refer to something you've worked hard on for years and years.
                          Thank you! Yes, penultimate means "next to last," or all but ultimate. Recognizing that BMW is the "ultimate driving machine," my characteristic natural modesty coupled with recognition of my own limitations, dictate that I view my automotive modification program as achieving a level of excellence just one step down from the acknowledged leader in the field. Thus, in all humility, and in the absence of all false pride I view my Protege as the penultimate driving machine.

                          "A man's got to know his limitations." --- Harry Callahan

                          Happy Motoring!
                          02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                          MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                          MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                          Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                          MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                          Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                          Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                          Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                          Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                          Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                          Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                          Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                          Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks for all these info.
                            Seems buying a good but affordable Cat is really tricky. Honestly I cannot afford 300 something just for one cat but I would appreciate if you help me to know where (store or site) I can find both pre-cat and rear cat for 1999 Mazda Protege LX 1.6L engine for reasonable price?
                            I am not racer and I am not looking for auto geeky stuff! I just want to prevent car break down because it looses power (specially the moment it begins to move until it gets into speed). After that or while being stopped engine is working very smoothly then I cannot believe its engine has another problem causing cat error code or loss of power.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              You're welcome.

                              I'm really not an expert on what brands are considered to be good quality cats. Aside from the factory cats, I was aware that Magnaflow also makes high quality cats that can be depended on to do the job and last a long time. Other than those two choices, I wouldn't know another brand to choose, although I'm sure other worthy choices exist. I do know that high quality cats are inherently expensive so it seems to me that you will have to spend some money even if performance is not your primary objective. Perhaps one or more of our other members with more experience in this area can suggest a good alternative.


                              Happy Motoring!
                              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                              Comment

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