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    Installed Front Brake Rotors and Pads

    I did my last brake job 30,000 miles ago. I had the OEM rotors resurfaced and used OEM pads. Now that it's time for new brakes, I decided to upgrade the system a bit - nothing drastic since my car is a daily driver but I do love driving the twisties so why not provide more of an edge just in case? I would have to replace the rotors anyway since they were already cut once. Not that I found the OEM system inadequate for my type of drivng but I do enjoy modding and as a member of this Forum I do see my car as kind of a test vehicle for others who might want to mod their vehicles in similar fashion. For anyone contemplating a similar upgrade, I strongly recommend reading "Cross Drilled, Slotted, or Stock" which can be accessed at:

    This is an excellent article containing much useful information.

    Rotors
    I decided to use slotted rotors made by the Power Slot Company. According to Power Slot, the slots machined into the rotor wipe the brake pads clean, evacuate gasses and help get rid of heat. Brake system performance is improved by wiping away the debris of used friction material that otherwise would accumulate between the rotor and the pad. This keeps fresh pad material exposed to the rotor surface and helps prevent pad glazing. The edges sweeping the pad slightly increase the effective coefficient of friction amplifying brake system response to pedal input. Slotted rotors can also improve initial brake response under wet conditions by providing an escape path for water. Additionally, excessive heat can cause resins in the brake pads to vaporize or "outgas," and the slots can help remove this boundary layer between rotor and pads which could otherwise inhibit performance. However, some maintain this last is not a problem with modern pads. The slots are tapered to enhance evacuation of heat and gases and all machining is done in house.

    Unlike drilling, slotting doesn't weaken the internal structure of the rotor. Drilling a rotor can weaken it and cause stress points that can lead to cracking and even complete failure. Also drilled rotors lose considerable surface area compared to slotted types which reduces the area available for braking.

    Power Slot rotors are finished with an electrostatically applied finish to both sides of the fully machined surfaces of the rotor hat. Finally, for an extra charge, Power Slot Rotors that have undergone cryogenic treatment are available. The company claims that the cryogenic treatment process redistributes residual stress in the rotor giving it an extra level of protection against thermal distortion and wear. Cryogenically treated rotors might be a good option for the daily driver that sees occasional track use.

    Available Rotor Types
    These 9.3" (235 mm) diameter Power Slot front rotors with 4-lug mounting holes, part # 120.45039SL & 120.45039SR (sold as pairs) are a direct replacement for the following models:
    1999-2001 1.6 L (rear drum equipped)
    It's possible to replace the 9.3" front rotors with the larger 10.2" rotors used on the 2.0 L. For details, go to: http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?9175

    These 10.2" (258 mm) diameter Power Slot front rotors with 4-lug mounting holes, part # 126.45058SL & 126.45058SR (sold as pairs) are a direct replacement for the following models:
    1999-2000 ES 1.8 L (rear drum equipped)
    2001 LX 2.0 L (rear drum equipped)
    2002-'03 DX & ES 2.0 L (rear drum equipped)

    These 10.2" (258 mm) diameter Power Slot front rotors with 5-lug mounting holes, part # 126.45048SL & 126.45048SR (sold as pairs) are a direct replacement for the following models:
    2001 MP3 & ES 2.0 L (rear disc equipped)
    2002-'03 ES 2.0 L (rear disc equipped)
    2002-'03 Protege 5 2.0 L (rear disc equipped)

    The above two 10.2" diameter types are identical except for the number of mounting holes.

    These 10.8" (274 mm) diameter Power Slot front rotors with 5-lug mounting holes, part # 120.45045SL & 120.45045SR (sold as pairs) are a direct replacement for the 2003 MSP 2.0 L (rear disc equipped).

    For available rear brake rotors, go to the Power Slot website.
    I found a great domain name for sale on Dan.com. Check it out!


    Pads
    To match the new rotors I selected Hawk HPS (High Performance Street) Brake Pads. Hawk makes a wide variety of pads but this is the one they recommend primarily for street use. According to the maker, these ferro-carbon compound pads increase stopping power 20-40% over standard pads, have high braking power hot and cold, have low dust, are practically noise free, and contain a brake compound that extends brake pad life. Included with the brake pads is a package of assembly grease.

    Hawk HPS front brake pads:
    part # HB211F.606 fits all protege models 1999-'03 except MSP.
    part # HB489F.630 fits 2003 MSP only.

    For Hawk HPS rear brake pads, go to the Hawk website: http://hawkbrakesdirect.com

    I ordered my rotors and pads from Racing Beat in Anaheim, CA.

    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors, Protege, (Power Slot part # 126.45058SR; 126.45058SL; RB part # 74536) US $166
    Hawk HPS Brake Pads, Front Protege 99-03, (Hawk part # HB211F.606; RB part # 74571) US $68
    Shipping US $43.43
    Total US $277.43

    According to RB, Power Slot rotors are made from high quality OEM replacement blanks and always meet or exceed all OE specifications. RB doesn't sell the cryogenically treated rotors but those seeking this type can purchase them at:
    HorsepowerFreaks Lowest Prices on Aftermarket Auto Accessories.


    Happy Motoring!

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    Last edited by goldstar; 08-24-2012, 06:51 AM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    #2
    Passenger Side OEM Front Brake 30,000 Miles after the Last Brake Job

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    Last edited by goldstar; 08-09-2012, 09:01 AM.
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #3
      Installation

      I am fortunate to have my friend who is a car tech, and has a well-equipped home garage to help me.

      Loosen the lug nuts, jack up the front end, place jackstands under the frame rails and remove the wheels. The brake lines must be disconnected from the calipers. I had replaced the OEM rubber brake lines with SS types and the thread I posted describing the process discusses removal and installation of the lines and the process used for bleeding the brakes. To avoid repetition, the information can be found at:


      Remove the calipers. Since my calipers are in good shape it was not necessary to rebuild them. To release the old brake pads remove the two bolts holding the guide pins (slider pins) in place. Clean the pins thoroughly and then grease them with the proper lubricant. Never use petroleum-based lubricants because they can't withstand the heat and can cause rubber seals to swell. Use only a silicone or synthetic-based lubricant. I prefer CRC Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease because its derived from PAO and Polyol ester base stocks and can withstand higher temperatures than even the best silicone-based lubes. To push the caliper piston inward to install the new pads, my friend used a tool similar to the Mazda SST 49 0221 600C, although a C-clamp can be used as well.

      Since the rotors were new they needed no cleaning. Power Slot states that should they ever need to be cleaned, the final stage should be soap and water. The old rotors were removed and the new ones fastened in place. The brake calipers were re-installed, the lines connected up, the brakes bled, wheels installed and the car returned to earth. Don't forget to torque the lug nuts to 66-86 ft/lbs.

      Incidently, Power Slot states that the slots in the rotor act as a wear indicator. When they disappear, the rotors must be discarded since if they're resurfaced you will no longer have slotted discs. Gollee, that makes sense.

      In terms of wear limits for the front rotors, according to the FSM the smaller 1.6 L discs should have a minimum thickness of 20 mm (.78") or 20.8 mm (.82") after machining. For the larger 2.0 L discs, the comparable figures are 22 mm (.87") minimum thickness or 22.8 mm (.90") after machining. Below these minimums, the rotors must be replaced.

      Minimum front disc pad thickness before replacement is 1.5 mm (.059") for the 1.6 L and 2.0 mm (.079") for the 2.0 L.

      Driving impressions to follow when I gain some more experience with the new setup.

      Happy Motoring!

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      Last edited by goldstar; 08-24-2012, 07:40 AM.
      02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
      MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
      MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
      Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
      MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
      Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
      Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
      Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
      Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
      Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
      Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
      Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
      Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

      Comment


        #4
        looking forward to the installation and review


        Comment


          #5
          Breaking-in the Hawk Brake Pads

          Hawk includes instructions to ready their pads for use, as follows:

          Burnishing Instructions
          1. After installing new brake pads, make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 30-35 mph applying moderate pressure.
          2. Make an additional 2 to 3 hard stops from approximately 40-45 mph.
          3. Do not drag brakes!
          4. Allow 15 minutes for brake system to cool down.
          After step 4 your new pads are ready to use.

          Give your break system a brake and follow these guidelines after pad installation. You'll be glad you did. I know I am, secure in the knowledge that my new pads will now exert maximum stopping force.

          Happy Motoring!
          02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
          MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
          MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
          Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
          MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
          Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
          Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
          Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
          Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
          Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
          Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
          Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
          Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

          Comment


            #6
            curious as to why you "HAD" to disconnect the calipers? excellent Write up though


            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by MazdaNoob View Post
              curious as to why you "HAD" to disconnect the calipers? excellent Write up though
              Thank you for your kind words. Technically, I didn't have to disconnect the calipers but I thought they would be easier to work on if I did, and I wanted to make sure the lines were clear so I didn't inadvertantly damage them since they are SS.


              Happy Motoring!
              02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
              MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
              MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
              Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
              MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
              Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
              Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
              Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
              Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
              Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
              Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
              Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
              Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

              Comment


                #8
                Road Test

                Immediately noticeable was how smooth the brake pedal felt regardless of how heavy or light the brake application. What I mean is that there was a definite improvement in brake modulation such that there seemed to be a more linear connection between pedal movement and amount of braking force applied. Somewhat similar to what I found when I replaced my OEM rubber brake lines with SS types. Also, there was absolutely no noise under braking - total silence prevailed throughout the system. The brakes felt more powerful and seemed to exert more stopping force than was possible with the OEM system. Of course, keep in mind I'm comparing a rebuilt system to one that had already experienced some degree of wear. The overall increase in performance was noticeable during both intown and highway driving. Stopping was straight and true with absolutely no pulling to one side or the other regardless of the severity of the brake application.

                To test braking performance over-the-road under very demanding conditions, I selected one of my favorite venues for testing handling and braking. Route 17A between Route 17 near Southfields, NY to a point just outside Warwick, NY (a distance of 12 miles) located in Orange County, NY state. Although some distance from my home, it's an enjoyable trip and an excellent location for testing. It's a 2-lane country highway that winds through a heavily wooded area rural area with only a couple of small villages enroute. Because of the relatively short straights and numerous severe curves it's ideal for brake testing. By pushing the car faster than one normally would on the straights, you're compelled to make maximum use of the brakes on the twisties unless one wants to go off into the woods. Those who read my SS brake line installation article will recognize it as the same place I used for testing those items. Brake performance was excellent here, powerful, silent, and predictable.

                After living with these brakes for awhile, I'm convinced that they'll be all I'll ever need in the way of upgrades for the kind of driving that I do. I'd venture to say that they may even be suitable for occasional autoX or track days, although here the cryogenically-treated rotors might be a better choice.

                Definitely an addition worthy of, and now more than ever, the penultimate driving machine.

                Happy Motoring
                02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                Comment


                  #9
                  What About the Rear Brakes?

                  Although I didn't mention it in my write-up then, when I installed the SS brake lines I inspected the rear brakes and determined that the linings, drums and wheel cylinders seemed to be in good shape. I blew out the dust, lubricated the pivot points and put everything back together. At this point, since the rear brakes still seemed to be fine, I only replaced the fronts which were showing signs of wear.

                  According to the FSM, the minimum thickness of the brake shoe lining should be 1.0 mm (.039"). If either is at or less than the minimum thickness, replace both left and right brake shoes. Measure the inner diameter of the drum with an inside caliper. The maximum diameter should be no more than 201.5 mm (7.933"). Inspect for scratches and uneven or abnormal wear inside the drum and repair or replace if necessary.

                  Just for the sake of completeness, rear drums are also available from Power Slot although I don't know if they have any advantage over OEM. Fitting all 3rd Gen models equipped with rear drums (1999-2003), with an outer diameter of 9.5" (241 mm), the part # is 122.45018.

                  I kind of like the idea of having drum brakes in the rear. Now that virtually every car has rear discs (not the Mazda2, I know), drum brakes are becoming more rare and exotic as time goes on. Consequently, rather than replacing them with discs which I feel would not improve my car's braking performance at all, I'd rather modify the drum brakes to make them even more exotic. If I had the money (which I don't) I would have someone design an ultimate rear drum brake system for my car. I'd start off with having finned aluminum brake drums cast and fitted with cast iron liners. Then, I'd convert to a twin-leading shoe system, which requires two wheel cylinders per backing plate, to increase the braking force through servo action while maintaining the same dimensions. This was the typical setup for front brakes for competition use before the advent of discs. Now that would be a truly exotic system and one definitely worthy of the Penultimate Driving Machine.

                  One can only dream.

                  Happy Motoring!
                  Last edited by goldstar; 08-24-2012, 07:06 AM.
                  02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
                  MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
                  MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
                  Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
                  MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
                  Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
                  Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
                  Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
                  Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
                  Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
                  Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
                  Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
                  Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

                  Comment

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