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    Don't forget about the tps wiring difference for the gtx ecu. Won't cause a no start but improves throttle response


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      Yeah I have the 4 wire all wired up.

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        So it turned out to be the timing marks the whole time. She's running on all 4 now it seems. It sounds a lot better and less like a tractor even though it's got an open downpipe lol put the GTX injectors back in and the BP26 ecu, built up some fuel pressure and she started. Would a rebuilt engine idle a little higher than usual? When she starts up its up to like 1500 then settles down to like 1200 or so. So I'm getting spark to all 4, checked the injectors with a screwdriver and heard a 'ticking' on all 4, and did an old Nascar trick and put a crayon on each port of the exhaust mani and watch how fast it melts to tell ya if the cylinder is firing. Now just to put an exhaust on her and plug in the wideband and check my afr's. Thanks for all the help guys! Videos next time I can lol

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          Got pics of my new bov and flange welded on there. I think it turned out pretty sweet and will def seal better than a rubber o-ring and 3 set screws....so stupid...this bov came with 3 adapters so I can run a bov or re-route it back into the intake. Which I'll probably do. We'll see lol

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            looking good man!! I hope you don't have any issues with that knock off BOV though, I know I sure did lol.

            If you're finding the idle too high, just slap the car in diagnostics mode and turn the idle down via set screw on the throttle body.
            -Jack

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            91 626 LX - basically stock and pretty slow still
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            91 USDM Protege LX - SOLD! turbo/manifold up for sale!
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              What does that little allen head set screw do on the oil pump?
              Last edited by Redscortgt93; 10-26-2013, 11:34 AM.

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                Okay here's a video of her running. This is full operating temps and open downpipe. My idle is still high and my set screw on the throttle body is closed all the way. Timing is at 14*btdc on premium gas. Spark plugs are NGK BKR7E gapped at 30 thousandths out of the box...main bearings were all plastigauged at 20 thousandths which isn't within "spec" of 11 to 17 thousandths but it's not over the max of 40 thousandths. My rod bearings were all at 15 thousandths. So lemme know what ya guys think...
                View My Video

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                  Well, if I were you i'd go ahead and break in the engine and make sure not to idle it too long. Also you may want to wait till you start driving it around before adjusting the idle. It my still need to get into the heater core and you could still possibly have an air pocket in the system. Also, with the engine started, go to your blow off valve and hold it shut all the way and see what happens to your idle.
                  Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
                  "Who Dey"

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                    So I took the brass "T" off and just plugged the gauge straight into the block and I changed my oil filter to a Pureolator classic and my oil pressure rised by 20 psi on cold start and never went below 20psi when it was hot! That's great news, but now I'm missing out when I try and give it gas. I think it's a fuel issue. I need that little solenoid that goes from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold if anyone has one or can snag one from a junkyard right quick. I think it might be affecting my fuel because I am running lean. I don't know though. I'll change my fuel filter too.
                    Last edited by Redscortgt93; 12-18-2013, 05:51 PM.

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                      So I haven't been on here in awhile. I've gotten an exhaust put on. Wideband is put in. 2.5" piping with a flow master hushpower resonator and flow master 60 series delta flow muffler. I'll post a video of the exhaust note later. Im running really rich under throttle so that's probably why I'm jerking under hard throttle. Would that make it flood the spark? It is idling at around 14.6-14.9 so that's good.

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                        So I posted a wtb for a gtx fuel pressure regulator if anyone has one they would sell me. I will post a video later of what its doing but I'm idling perfect at the 14.7afr range and runs great in vacuum but when I go into boost it pegs at 10afr and pretty much stays there. I gotta check for boost leaks and replace the fpr. I have gtx injectors, vj20 with bp26 ecu and gtx turbo cams. Everything else is stock BP.

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                          Can you try to turn up your timing also do you have a knock sensor? IF you dont have a knock sensor put you timing at like 14 and see how the car does.
                          Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
                          "Who Dey"

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                            Yeah I've been talking to Jack via email and I set my timing to 14* but it was still running rich directly into boost...I am tearing into my 4 wire tps in the harness to solder it on instead of using cheap crimps. While I was taking off all the old black tape I noticed the 4th wire to the tps came out of the crimp....may be my problem there lol no signal from the air flow meter would make the ecu run in open loop wouldn't it? That'd explain rich conditions right? either way it can't be a good thing lol I'm gonna solder that with heat shrink and see if that fixes my issues. Wish me luck.

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                              I'm sure the tps is the problem.
                              Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
                              "Who Dey"

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                                So I soldered the pigtail on and it didn't fix my issue. I'm thinking the TPS itself is bad. The throttle itself cuts out more while driving. Not even under boost just like coasting in a parking lot it'll cut out and the car dies sometimes. I have a spare TPS I'll put on and adjust and see if that helps. So what pins to I touch to test a voltage sweep? I keep hearing 0 volts closed and 5 volts open. The manual says the E and Vt pins and 1000 ohms closed and 5000 ohms open and it should rise gradually across the board.

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