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    Installing tach in 2000 Protege- complete instrument cluster

    Hello,
    My 2000 Protege DX has a build date 8-2000. About 2 years ago I purchased an LX cluster - with a tach. Before I installed the LX cluster, I tried to swap out the speedometer to retain my original mileage and damaged it (don't pull the needles!!!). I then purchased another LX cluster with a tach.

    While everything plugged in properly, I had two issues (with both clusters):

    1. The tach NEVER worked.

    2. The ECM immediately brought up a PO-118 code that relates to the coolant temperature reading high. Additionally the engine ran at a low idle regardless of a cold start, on a 50 degree day. Reinstalling the original cluster brought the idle back to the faster speed typical on a cold start. The code however did not go away until I used a scan tool to clear it.

    My original DX cluster has the following codes: BJOH C, OHO1

    The two LX clusters have the following codes: BJOJ B, 80916 - and - BJOK B 81019 I did not take notice of the year when I got these clusters, but I think they might have been 1999 Protege LX's.

    I have searched the internet and this Forum extensively. On the '99-'03 Protege's some seem to get plug & play. Others (like me) NOT.

    So, my questions are:

    A. Is there a specific (tach) cluster that will work with my 8-2000 build date DX?

    B. Will the appropriate cluster work without additional wiring (like from the diagnostic port to the cluster - purple/white wire).

    C. Has anyone else experienced the PO118 code with a cluster swap?

    Lastly if anyone has interest in the LX (tach) clusters I have, (the BJOJ B is the good one) I'll let it go very reasonable and throw in the broken one too.

    Thank you, Tom
    Last edited by wittsend; 02-19-2013, 04:51 PM.

    #2
    Did you resolve this issue? I'm currently encountering a similar issue.
    Last edited by mazkam; 01-12-2015, 07:53 AM.

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      #3
      I did resolve the issue - sort of. I bought a stand alone mini tach and mounted it to the instrument bezel. I positioned it between the speedometer and the temp gauge. If you go this route the white/purple wire does work as the tach signal.

      I never found a way to get the tach functional with a 1999 cluster in my 2000 Protege. I am curious, did you also get the check engine light with a 118 code when you put the 1999 in a 2000 car?

      Comment


        #4
        Disclaimer, "Do at your own risk." This was connecting Protege a 2003 Mazdaspeed Speedo/Cluster to a 2000 DX.
        Even though I bought up to this question a number of years back, I have finally found an almost complete answer to the dilemma. First, there must be some kind of issue with using a 1999 cluster in a 2000 car. Both '99 clusters I mentioned in my first post (post #1) brought up a check engine light immediately (and no tach function) relating to a temperature sensor. So, recommendation #1, don't use a '99 cluster.

        Recently I acquired a third cluster, only this time it was 2003 Mazdaspeed cluster. Upon installation I still had no tach, but everything functioned except the high beam indicator. I did some searching around and found this site http://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/M...g%20Manual.pdf that had a schematic for a 2002 Protege. Comparing the connector on the 2000 Protege DX it was obvious there was no wiring for the tach signal. If you dig through the schematic (or it is commonly mentioned on the internet) the Diagnostic port in the engine compartment has the tach signal. So, getting the tach functional is simply a matter of connecting the two points. I should also mention that people often refer to a "Purple / White" wire. In the manual it is referred to as a Violet / White wire.

        In the schematic listed above there are three pages I found very helpful. They are: PDF page 24 (actual manual page number on manual is 20), PDF page 32 (actual page number on the manual is 28) and PDF page 64 (actual page number in the manual is 60).

        On the upper right side of PDF page 24 you will see the circled number 21 and a wire labeled V/W (Violet / White) going to pin number 48 on the PCM. This is the origin of the tach signal.

        Now go to PDF page 32. You will see the circled number 21 going to the Speedo/Cluster AND... it is also linked to the "Data Link Connector" - which is actual called the "Diagnostic" port under the hood. You will also see that the color of the wire remains Violet / White. So, what one needs to understand is that the Violet / White wire in the DX only runs to the Diagnostic port (circled number 22) and not the Speedo/Cluster (circled number 21). However, simply running a wire from the Diagnostic port to the Speedo/Cluster solves the problem.

        While you are on PDF page 32 look in the lower left hand of the page. The connectors at the Speedo/Cluster are listed there. They are all three listed as C-01 but the connector of interest is the bottom one with 10 connection points. On the lower right side of the connector you will see the V/M (Violet / White) wire connection point. That is where you want to add a wire (and metal clip - more on this later). Note the orientation of the connector hold down clip to ensure the wire is placed correctly. Also note that on the Speedo/Cluster itself, this particular connector is the second one counting from the left.

        Now, go to PDF page 64. You will see the Diagnostic port. Find the circled number 22 (V/M (Violet / White) and note the location. This is where you will connect the other end of the wire. This will now connect the Diagnostic port tach signal to the tach input of the Speedo/Cluster. You should now have a functional tach in a DX car.

        A few notes on the actual connection itself. Unless you cut wires and took the whole connector when you got the Speedo/Cluster you will be without the small metal clip needed to effectively connect the wire. The larger plastic connector does not contain "spare" metal clips. What I found to work sufficiently was to carefully remove a metal clip from a common computer "audio card to motherboard" cable. If you don't have one, they can be bought cheaply. Solder the wire to the clip and carefully feed it into the appropriate spot on the plastic connector. Note the orientation in regards to the wider (barely noticeable) side of the metal clip and the left/right orientation needed in the plastic connector. Also, looking through the front there is a plastic "tang" inside the connector. Make sure that the metal clip will "catch" the tang. It is possible to put the metal clip in 180 degrees out. This will result in the metal clip probably sliding out of the connector upon installation and being mis-aligned to slid over the pin on the Speedo/Cluster. It just takes some time and commonsense to get it right. I found a stiff pin and visual magnification helped get the metal clip installed properly.
        I found it easier to do the Speedo/Cluster side first, then run the wire through a rubber connector in the firewall. I'll leave it to yourself to best accomplish this. At the Diagnostic port the connection is female. So, just a thin blade of metal is all that is needed. I'm guessing some will just shove the wire in. It is your choice. Hammering a short piece of a paper clip (to flatten it) and soldering the wire to it would do. Insert the wire into the Diagnostic port as illustrated on PDF page 64. Also note I used a blue wire of about 18 gauge. I could not find a Violet / White wire in my parts bin. But, anyway, the color is not important. On the outer end (street side) of the Diagnostic port cover there is a notch that allows the wire to run out without pinching when the cover closes.


        I'm not sure why I can't get the high beam indicator to light. The bulb is good. if I can't find a wire movement that corrects this, I'll just run a wire from the high beam line to a small light I'll affixed to the black bezel and call it done. Besides, I rarely use high beams and can probably tell when they are on simply by how the road lights.

        Pictures (not sure why they posted so large??? Please scroll left/right): #1 It is the second connector from the left and I have added the blue wire. #2 The Diagnostic port, I marked the correct connection point with a "T", note the side the wire is run out of. #3 The audio cable I got the needed metal clip from, the clip is rather fragile, but if you have the cable you get 6 tries. #4 The final results.
        Attached Files
        Last edited by wittsend; 11-28-2014, 06:06 PM.

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          #5
          Thanks for sharing.

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            #6
            Good, informative write-up. I, too, used the violet/white wire to the diagnostic port as the pickup point for the digital tach installation in my DX. We'll make this a sticky.


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              #7
              Hey wittsend, did you have any issue with your temperature not functioning properly after you did the cluster swap? Mine stays in the 1/4 position from the H all the time.

              Comment


                #8
                As best I can tell there seems to be a difference between the 1999 cluster and the2000-2003 clusters. My car is a DX, 8-2000 build and I tried two different clusters from 1999 cars. Both clusters immediately brought up a Check Engine Light and the code regarded a temperature issue, though I don't recall the specific number. I do not recall if the temperature gauge operated properly. With the immediate disappointment of the CEL and no Tach function I just shut the engine off and put the original cluster back in.

                Even with the 2003 Madzaspeed cluster and jumping the diagnostic port violet/white wire for the Tach, I have no high beam indicator (though everything else seems to function). My remedy with this is to break the circuit board contact tabs off the bulb socket, drill holes and solder wires. Then wire the high beam socket straight to the high beam light. This way the socket for the light operates independently of the cluster wiring.

                You did not state the year of your Protege, or the package level (DX, LX, ES). From my experience the 1999 clusters seem very difficult to work properly with 2000-2003 cars. And, I assume visa/versa. Without the factory manual for both the existing car AND the donor cluster you are kind of lost. ANY car that came without a Tach (DX) seems to require a wire to make it functional.
                Last edited by wittsend; 01-29-2015, 12:26 AM.

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                  #9
                  interesting read!
                  ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                  1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                  I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                  he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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                    #10
                    UPDATE: One other thing to add. I'm not sure if it is just the Mazdaspeed cluster or any LX/ES cluster as well, but my Mazdaspeed cluster added the time delayed dimming interior light feature! Takes a while for a DX owner to get use to. Upon exiting the car I keep looking back to make sure it goes out. LOL

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                      #11
                      I have a 1999 Protege DX and it does not have a tach, I would really love having a tach seeing that my car is manual transmission and I feel that the tach provides important information about the car.

                      After reading your (lovely) posts, I am still unsure if I should try and install a tach. The question I have is: Should I try installing a Mazdaspeed cluster that seemed to work for your 2000? Or should I just install an aftermarket tach?

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                        #12
                        Prior to making my third attempt to install a Protege cluster with a Tach, I used a generic Sun, stand alone, mini Tach. I mounted it in front of the temp gauge/speedometer 80+ range. I knew it was a temp gauge so seeing the whole thing wasn't critical and 80 MPH in these cars might not even happen. This still requires the Violet/White wire from the diagnostic port. It also requires a ground wire, power wire and an additional wire for night time illumination. These you have to tap in under the dash.

                        BTW, the DX speedometer dose NOT transfer over to the tach style cluster. There a subtle differences. And the removal of the needles will only result in broken parts. So, if you purchase another cluster you will have to "live" with the existing mileage. And, lawfully disclose such if ever sold.

                        Would any 1999 Protege cluster work in your car, I can't say. It would be a gamble, but likely a better bet than a 2000-2003 cluster given the Temperature CEL code I got using a 1999 cluster in a 2000 car. Sad to say I got rid of the two 1999 LX clusters I had. They had been sitting unused for 3 years. Had I still had them I'd have given you one for the cost of shipping. That said, they are pretty cheap on Ebay. If you have self serve yards where you live you can probably find them pretty cheap there too. I paid $17 and change for my Mazdaspeed cluster at a self serve. And, I wasn't even looking for a "speed" cluster, just one that was 2000 and up. Frankly I don't like the white background and the orange/red color when illuminated. I've got 57 year old eyes that prefer the white numbers on a black background like the DX cluster.
                        Attached Files
                        Last edited by wittsend; 01-29-2015, 11:02 AM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks for the reply.

                          I may just go with the custom tach. I think I'm fine with it sitting on the left or right side of the dash. Its all too early to really make decisions but if a stand alone tach simplifies installation then I'll go with that.

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