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Thread: Kev's JDM 1997 Protege

  1. #451
    Registered User farcryNZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by irishkev90 View Post
    Got her running again. The way they wired in the alarm system was causing problems with wiring up the start safety switch the factory way, so I had to tap into the harness. Not ideal, but it works. And the clutch switch and neutral switch are both wired up to the ECU correctly. Idled fine, a little high, but no bouncing like before and the check engine light didn't come back on (used to come on instantly when the engine started). Only problem now is the a/c doesn't seem to be working. Which is weird because I didn't touch any of the a/c wiring. I'll take another look tomorrow to make sure I didn't leave a connector unplugged or something.


    No to just solve that popping sound in the front suspension...
    Are you for real with this switch bizz?
    If you had a clutch switch, what's the neutral switch? Or are we only talking automatic?




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  2. #452
    zoom zoom irishkev90's Avatar
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    Manual transmission. This was after the swap. There's two different switches. One (clutch safety switch) is on the clutch pedal to let the ECU know when the pedal is depressed so the engine can start safely. The other (neutral switch) is in the transmission and lets the ECU know when the transmission is in neutral so it will idle properly.

  3. #453
    Registered User farcryNZ's Avatar
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    So how will it idle if you depress the clutch, but keep it in gear?
    (I'm scrounging for any scrap of info to help me with my own issue)



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  4. #454
    zoom zoom irishkev90's Avatar
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    Yes, it will idle in gear with the clutch depressed. Though I don't like to that much for fear of putting unnecessary wear on the bearing.

    What issue are you having?

  5. #455
    zoom zoom irishkev90's Avatar
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    Got new wheel bearings for the front. Hopefully I can get a little bit of prep done for the ES brake swap. Still need to deal with those bolts in the rear spindles. Slow and steady, right?

  6. #456
    suspension mods intheworks FE3-323's Avatar
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    is it just ES rear brakes? are the fronts different? i can't recall
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it


  7. #457
    zoom zoom irishkev90's Avatar
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    The ES had rear disc brakes and also had larger front rotors than the DX and LX models. And I'm doing the full brake swap, front and rear. Still need to deal with those rear spindle bolts, but I've got all the old bearings out. I had to use a lot of heat so I'm waiting for the fronts cool down and then I'll clean them up, give them some paint, then reassemble everything. I need to grab some new hubs, seals, lock rings, and ball joints from work this week. Might grab some new outer tie rod ends, too. I replaced them and the ball joints when I got the car (rubber boots were all torn), but I like the idea of everything being new and installed together. Overkill? Probably. Peace of mind? Definitely.

    I think I'm just going to cave and bring the rears to a machine shop to remove the bolt and then I'll clean, paint, and assemble those as well. I still need to do all the calipers, too.

    Also thinking about getting new rear sway bar bushings and figure out some sort of spacer setup. The bar is meant for a BJ protege (from AWR, 21.5mm) and it looks like the mounting points on the BJ are closer together than on a BH. Because of this, the stops (or whatever) are a few inches away from the bushings and the bar slid slightly to one side. Not sure how much of an effect it has on handling, it feels fine on twisty roads, but I'd like it to be centered as much as possible.

  8. #458
    suspension mods intheworks FE3-323's Avatar
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    i think your being smart bringing it to a shop to get those bolts out. they are a real SOB. & without heavy duty tool access most people are SOL.
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it


  9. #459
    zoom zoom irishkev90's Avatar
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    We have a 20 ton press in the garage, but that Bolt didn't budge one bit. Heat, PB Blaster, hammer... Nothing.

  10. #460
    zoom zoom irishkev90's Avatar
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    Haven't made any real progress on the car. I did try and sort out the suspension bounce on the highway, though. It's not completely gone, but it's getting better. I lowered the front down about .75" and redid the spring preload. The spring is just snug enough so it doesn't move when the suspension is at full droop. Same preload setting in the rear. I set the valving right in the middle, 18 clicks.

    Also found out last night that the car can beautifully oversteer on a wet mountain road. I didn't do anything to cause it. I was doing about 25-30mph uphill in (I think) second gear. The road was wet, just rained earlier in the day, and the turn was tight but smooth. Didn't hit the brakes or let off the gas or flick it, the rear end just gradually slid out sideways and basically ended up drifting the turn. As soon as the road straightened out, the rear end got back behind me with no fuss and I was on my way.

    I do need to loosen the rear sway bar a bit. On big bumps the end links hit the rear lateral links. Just barely. Probably move them 1/16 of an inch and it'll be good.

  11. #461
    zoom zoom irishkev90's Avatar
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    Small update. Still trying to get rid of the highway bounce. I had a clunk in the front left wheel area. Turns out the end link to control arm bolt was moving around inside the mounting tab. Couldn't find a way to make the hole smaller, but tightening the hell out of the nut/bolt is working just fine. Also decided to tighten the end links (adjustable Miata links) a bit. I don't remember how much (maybe .25"?), but I shortened them slightly. I haven't been on the highway yet, but I'll get out there soon and test my theory and see if I made the bounce better or worse. Fingers crossed.

  12. #462
    suspension mods intheworks FE3-323's Avatar
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    i've been in that scenario, its hard with aftermarket adjustable endlinks to get a good heim that matches the OEM hole size. even worse when they wear another out.
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it


  13. #463
    zoom zoom irishkev90's Avatar
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    Endlink bolt was loose in the control arm hole again. Only happening on the passenger side, no problems with the driver side. I tightened it again and it's fine now, but I think I'll go back under and put a second nut on the end to make sure it doesn't loosen up. When I get more free time and a disposable income again, I'd like to check the size difference and see if I can find a sleeve or something to fill the gap. I also readjusted the endlink lengths. I lengthened one side front and rear to put constant pressure on the sway bars (not much, just until I started feeling resistance from the bar when extending the link). Highway bounce has been decreased. Still there at certain speeds/road conditions, but much more comfortable than before. A little more fine tuning needed. My rear sway bar has been slightly to the left since I installed it and I finally got around to centering it. The bar was meant for a BJ chassis, so the bushing rests aren't in the proper location for the BHA.

    Due to financial hardship I have decided to part ways with a few things I've had laying around. Check out my sale thread if you're interested: http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...EM-Aftermarket

  14. #464
    zoom zoom irishkev90's Avatar
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    Got a FS thread going for some BHA parts. Have a look here: http://www.clubprotege.com/forum/sho...EM-Aftermarket

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