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Thread: GTX build from Atlanta

  1. #76
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    Understood and thanks, that's the set-up I am seriously considering as I want to shelf the distributor and run the Miata CAS and coils / ignitor.

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by slownrusty View Post
    Understood and thanks, that's the set-up I am seriously considering as I want to shelf the distributor and run the Miata CAS and coils / ignitor.

    Yea when you start to take those steps just give me a shout and I'll help as much as I can.

  3. #78
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    Awesome! Thank-you

  4. #79
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    Wildfire thanks for the update, and I wish I would have jumped on the MS but have NOW my G8 and my 240sx on standalone tuning computers. The rocketchip will do just fine for now.....

  5. #80
    Registered User BFMRGTX's Avatar
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    Wildfire - Which MS system are you using? The: MegaSquirtPNP G2 MM9093 or: MS2 v3.0 Running MS2-extra ?

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by BFMRGTX View Post
    Wildfire - Which MS system are you using? The: MegaSquirtPNP G2 MM9093 or: MS2 v3.0 Running MS2-extra ?
    I am using DIYPNP using the N52 board/Plug. Mostly cause I had it left over from my old Miata(note, I had to order a new board/plug section).

    So my setup right now is the DIYPNP, which using a Mircosquirt board/processor, and 2 bip373 to drive my coil packs. Everything CAS/Coil is on their own wiring using the DB15(can't remember what number it is) and then the rest of the car is via the factory harness.

  7. #82
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    Not to much of an update, the car has been in storage between moving housing and kids. Unfortunately while inspecting the car after moving it to the new garage I noticed the HKS exhaust was rusted in to many places so it's out. Ordered up a handful of parts for the new exhaust.

    The plan is to run it from the turbo back, with a devorced downpipe. 2.5 out of the turbo with a 1.75 for the wastegate. Merge those into a 3" and run 3" all the way to the back.

    Now to photos.

    3" cat


    1.75 and 2.5 piping


    Muffler





    3" bends




    Vbands and steal plate for the turbine flange



    Test sizing (this is where it goes between the body and the rear subframe) plenty of room getting the vband in there, so I should have plenty of room




    Also have 7' of 3" piping not photoed. Hopefully this should be enough to build the the system. Or at least I should be able to get 90% of it from these parts :D. Now to try and find time to build the exhaust. Between work, and the 4 kids I don't get a whole lot of free time.

  8. #83
    suspension mods intheworks FE3-323's Avatar
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    3" is loud, but it shoudl be fun!. nice to see your using v-bands on this new exhaust.
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it


  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by FE3-323 View Post
    3" is loud, but it shoudl be fun!. nice to see your using v-bands on this new exhaust.
    Hopefully 3" won't be to bad. I run 3" on my old turbo Miata and it wasn't too bad. Quiet at low speed, but had a nice loud tone when fully on it.

    First time working with V-bands but seems like it should really make working on the car in the future easy. I am sick of breaking exhaust bolts on the flange.

  10. #85
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    BEWARE GRAPHIC IMAGES ... Well for anyone that knows how to weld


    So I have been finding an hour here or there to work on the exhaust. So Photo dump incoming with some updates.

    Finding the radius center point so I could work on "pie" cutting the bend to decrease the overall radius of the bend.



    The first pass on the band saw




    Comparing the first pass to the original part




    Only picture I have of the second pass at the bandsaw



    UGLY ass sin welds,



    Starting to clean it up with the flap disk



    Test fitting the new part. I'll have to clean up the face some and most like tap in a small section that is touching on the AC compressor. But it fits in the hole where the original bend wasn't even close.





    Overall, I am slowly getting the hang of welding. At the start, I was getting some burn thought and such, but over the 20 minutes messing with this part, I got better at controlling the heat in the pipe and filling in the huge gaps. I'll have to do a second touch up with the welder as I already know I have a few pin holes.

    I did realize I need to spend some time in the garage and setup a workbench in the new house. Having to knee on the hard floor well welding and grinder hurt. I hate getting old. Long term I'd love to get a nice welding table but for now a simple table not on the floor will have to do :D.

  11. #86
    suspension mods intheworks FE3-323's Avatar
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    what welder do you have? are you using shielding gas?
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it


  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by FE3-323 View Post
    what welder do you have? are you using shielding gas?
    Lincoln weldpak 100 that been converted to run shield gas. Running a C25 mix. Talking with some local's it was mentioned that i should have clean back the aluim coating as that would help my welds.

    Yea I still have a long way to go on my welding skills.

    I think the side showing , was the first side I did and was much rougher. I was also having trouble at first with getting burn through, and so I kept starting and stopping, which doesn't help with the look.

  13. #88
    suspension mods intheworks FE3-323's Avatar
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    what size wire are you using? your not using flux core wire with shield gas are ya??
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it


  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by FE3-323 View Post
    what size wire are you using? your not using flux core wire with shield gas are ya??
    .023 solid core wire. Forgot the brand, but I want to say I got it from weld usa.

  15. #90
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    Well I was having issues with V1 of Exhaust Turbine exit, or as I am more use to calling them 02 housing.

    So the 2.5 pipe was a little to big to fit in the gap, mixed with a little oversized on the flange and just wasn't sealing up nicely(aka I suck at welding )

    So started on V2.

    Few changes:
    Using 2.25 pipe that will step up to 2.5, and then that will tie into my 3" planned exhaust.
    Pie Cuts cause I couldn't find anything with a tight enough CLR


    Onto photos, which are now on Flickr, and I'll upload older photos at some point.

    First I made a jig, so I could cut each side the same. The goal was for a 20 degree cut, but now I know if I line up side A with another Side A they would be the same angle, or stupidly close, and keep from getting to odd oval shapes.

    Pie Cut Jig by b c, on Flickr

    Handful of my cuts. I cut more so I could pick the different length to get my different shapes, and give me spares to practice welding the tight areas.
    Pie Cuts by b c, on Flickr

    First piece in the flange to make sure it fit, and with some guiding from a BFH, it fit.

    Flange by b c, on Flickr
    Testing my planned order.

    Test Bend by b c, on Flickr

    More planning

    Test Bend with Flange by b c, on Flickr

    I don't have photos but I tried to put it all in the car as a test. It's close, but doesn't fit like I wanted. It's close enough that once I get it bolted in, I can use the BFH to give a few taps and gain the little extra space I need between the AC and exhaust. But overall I think right now this approach will work.

    After I get it all welded up, I'll need to use my small piping to make the wastegate piping and feeding that into where the 2.25 steps up to the 2.5. Then get a new 2.5 v-band clamp. This way I can use the clamp like the stock setup did, and allow the lower DP to be released from the upper DP. This way I don't have remove the A/C from the motor if I need to remove the DP to gain clearance for anything. Instead I can drop just the lower DP only.

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