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    #91
    you sir have far more patience than I. must be nice to have a band saw for those cuts. what type of welder do you have?
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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      #92
      Originally posted by FE3-323 View Post
      you sir have far more patience than I. must be nice to have a band saw for those cuts. what type of welder do you have?
      Ha ha to the patience. I wish I had more patience but I am trying to get better about not rushing projects. Trying to teach myself and my kid to do the job right the first time.

      As for the tools. Hell the bandsaw is just a HF speical $100 saw, and still using the stock blade. I plan to try and get a nicer blade cause cutting the flange is a PITA.

      As for welder, nothing special. A Linclon wed pack 100, which I did a DIY gas conversion. Picked it up cheap from a pawn shop a few years back and has been great to me. One day I plan to buy a nicer unit either a standalone TIG or one of those nicer multi units. But right now the 2k those cost, I'd rather buy a car lift for my garage.

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        #93
        So I went out to do some test welding on some spare parts but it came out better then I figured. Oh and it's even tighter then the first planed one. So I think I may just call these "final" at least for this section.

        Everything on the left was the first pass and everything on the right was my second pass. I started with a 2/4 amp setting and stepped up to 3/4 for the second pass and finishing up the first side. Like I said this started as practice. Mostly I was worried that with the test pieces I would get burn through as the smallest section was really little. I did get a little section that burnt through when doing the first two pieces; but when I did the three piece I was able to fill in the small area. This was a little bit of a PITA as I was getting a lot of heat. I had to keep letting the piece cool and also dipping it in a bucket of water. Welds aren't the best looking but seems to have no leaks. At least when tested with a light long the welds. I'll plan to try pressure test it before sealing it to the flange.

        Now on to my bad welding

        Again Left was first pass, right was second set.

        Test welding 01 by b c, on Flickr

        Test welding 02 by b c, on Flickr

        Test welding 03 by b c, on Flickr

        Test Welding 04 by b c, on Flickr

        I forgot to get some photos after some cleaning with the flap disk. I'll try and get a photo of that later.

        Here is a photo showing the fitment on the car. You can see it just almost fits. I maybe able to slide the upper section(the one in the flange) a little more towards the flange in the end.

        Test Fitting by b c, on Flickr

        As you can see it's just touching the AC compressor. I plan to wrap the piping in heat wrapping to keep the heat down, so I'll need to clearance for that and just clearance reasons. I am hoping that a little tap tap with the #2 hammer, I can gain what space I need.

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          #94
          Start of the grinding process.

          Start of cleaing up by b c, on Flickr

          More Cleaning by b c, on Flickr

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            #95
            Curious why you wouldn't just use a VJ20 turbine elbow then work that back to the 3" exhaust. No divorced waste gate I know but it works with the A/C and fits the VJ14 turbine and flows pretty good for that 200hp number. Of course if that is the turbo you are working with.

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              #96
              Originally posted by azgtx View Post
              Curious why you wouldn't just use a VJ20 turbine elbow then work that back to the 3" exhaust. No divorced waste gate I know but it works with the A/C and fits the VJ14 turbine and flows pretty good for that 200hp number. Of course if that is the turbo you are working with.
              Mostly just couldn't find one and orignial plan wasn't to change the part. But when I dropped the lower DP and saw how much it bottle necked down I knew I should replace it.

              I will admit, i have spent way more time and most likely money too, vs just hunting down the vj20 part. But in the end I've learned a lot and I know I'll learn even more as I keep working on it.

              Kinda one of those practice projects cause as time goes on, I feel like parts are only going to get harder and harder to find. So the more skills I can learn the better shape I can keep the old girl.

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                #97
                your weld puddles are too far apart, it doesn't look like your making any horseshoe/U shape during the weld, and youre running too high of heat. work on narrowing your bead consistency and keep the puddle hot enough to penetrate you should be able to smooth out the next welds much more. Try to remember you aren't trying to "spot" weld the piece together but trying to have a consistent weld, with the 100 amp unit you'll have to allow a little downtime, but thats usually perfect in ratio to letting the metal cool before starting again & not burning a hole.
                ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                Comment


                  #98
                  Originally posted by FE3-323 View Post
                  your weld puddles are too far apart, it doesn't look like your making any horseshoe/U shape during the weld, and youre running too high of heat. work on narrowing your bead consistency and keep the puddle hot enough to penetrate you should be able to smooth out the next welds much more. Try to remember you aren't trying to "spot" weld the piece together but trying to have a consistent weld, with the 100 amp unit you'll have to allow a little downtime, but thats usually perfect in ratio to letting the metal cool before starting again & not burning a hole.
                  Thank you for the great feedback, at start, I was doing more spot welding. I would lay a small bead a few mm, wait, then next spot.

                  Feedback like this is a huge help since I am really just trying to learn. The whole point of me wanting to build my exhaust was really just to learn how to weld. I knew that an exhaust would need to be air tight, but wasn't load bearing so rough welds would be do-able. I have had a few people comment on other sites about my welds being rough and needing to practice more, but without much telling me what they see wrong. So thank you for taking the time to tell me what you see wrong, and how I should try and fix it.

                  Comment


                    #99
                    well i hope it helps some, you'll just have to play around with the tolerance of the metal & see what the limit of heat is before you burn through & keep it right before that amount, by taking a short break & letting it cool a bit if need be
                    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                    Comment


                      So I got some time in the garage last night so some more.

                      First a little practice, following some tips I got from FE3-323. Still not amazing but I think an improvement from last time.

                      Practice 2 by b c, on Flickr

                      Practice by b c, on Flickr

                      Still, need way more hours welding but overall, I am noticing I can start to see and "feel" the differences. Maybe by the time I am done with this exhaust I can lay a half decent bead :D

                      Progress on the real part, I was having issues getting a good angle on most of it, so the beads turned out meh.

                      Progress by b c, on Flickr

                      Progress 2 by b c, on Flickr

                      Mocked up on the flange, testing fitment

                      Mock-up by b c, on Flickr

                      As you can see I need to make a little room on the flange.

                      Clearance needed by b c, on Flickr

                      Overall, I had some issues with getting a nice bead on the inner section just due to it being a tight space. I had to lay two passes on the inner section, cause at one point I laid a bead just to the edge of the seam =/.

                      It's not going to win any awards but should hold.

                      Comment


                        boost is better than no boost
                        ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                        1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                        I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                        he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                        Comment


                          Practice, practice, practice.

                          Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

                          Comment


                            Latest update,

                            Since the last post:
                            -Put on the hangers for the rear section
                            -"finished" the turbo dump
                            -then pressure tested the pieces only to find how bad some of my welds were. Cool part is the later welds where much better so proof I am getting better.
                            -Reweld or "patched" the leaks
                            -Painted the rear section

                            So the big question is what is left
                            -Wrap the rear bend section as that get near the car body and fuel tank so I want to just be extra careful. Should be fine but I have the wrap so better save then sorry.
                            - Redo the whole turbo outlet section. I keep trying to make it air tight and just was failing over and over. So I am taking the tack I learned from work, and starting again. I can keep trying to fix something over and over or just redo it again, and learn from my mistakes. Also most likely going to make something better too.

                            So I have already made a jig based off the non-air tight v2, and going to go at it again. This time I am going to weld the two pipe sections first and pressure test them. Once they are air tight, then I'll weld them to the flanges. Also this time I went and bought a hole saw size for the wastegate piping. The original design I was welding the pipe to the face of the flange, but was running into issues. Where as the main pipe I had inset that, and was able to seal that piping more easily. So my goal will be to inset both so I can seal the pipe to the flange internal rather then via the external welds. Then just make sure I give myself room for the gun where the merge, as that was another issues area.


                            On to the photos :D

                            Mostly Full exhaust, WIP by b c, on Flickr

                            Mostly Full exhaust 2 WIP by b c, on Flickr

                            Redo of the Turbo Outlet by b c, on Flickr

                            Note, that I was test to see if I could do the wastegate piping and still get a full sized socket on that lower bolt, but have already realized that isn't going to happen. So I will be putting wrench on there to make sure I give myself clearance to install the thing :D

                            Comment


                              in all honesty, a bellmouth dump is plenty efficient, a secondary external wastegate pipe is really just fancy overkill. especially if the hotside itself isn't truly divided. save yourself hassle and blend up a bellmouth, you'll thank me later for the ease of access to the bolts.

                              a huge tip i like to point out for welding V-bands. buy an extra v-band & use the spare halves when welding. Male/Female V-bands are highly encouraged. having a v-band complete while welding significantly reduces the chance for warping.
                              ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                              1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                              I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                              he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by FE3-323 View Post
                                in all honesty, a bellmouth dump is plenty efficient, a secondary external wastegate pipe is really just fancy overkill. especially if the hotside itself isn't truly divided. save yourself hassle and blend up a bellmouth, you'll thank me later for the ease of access to the bolts.

                                a huge tip i like to point out for welding V-bands. buy an extra v-band & use the spare halves when welding. Male/Female V-bands are highly encouraged. having a v-band complete while welding significantly reduces the chance for warping.
                                After some more research, based on your advice, I think I am going to do the divided bellmouth style, as it keeps the turbo and wastegate zones divided right out of the turbo, which should give good flow, but should be easier to fab. For the Vj14 shouldn't matter much but I been looking at he BNR gt28 hybrid in the future.

                                On that note, FE, I have been planning from the start to add a small piece of divider to the flange on the turbo side to keep the divided. I think I have spaced on talking about it here.

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