Synthetic oil options question

[Zorix]

Hi everyone. I would like to switch my engine oil to synthetic after a complete rebuild in the near future and was researching options. I have come to the conclusion that my best option would probably be Amsoil which has an impressive following. I have a 91 LX DOHC engine which normally runs on 10W30.

I was looking at what Amsoil recommends, and on the top of their list was this one:

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/sae-10w-30-signature-series-100-percent-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ATMQT-EA

However, I did come across this one as well:

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/z-rod-10w-30-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=ZRTQT-EA

Which is for classic cars and has a high Zinc formula and "Protects Flat-Tappet Cams". Since the engine is a cast iron block so it's not exactly a moden engine, would this fall in line with a classic car engine more than a modern?

I'd like to see everyone's thought and opinions on this.
Thanks.

[atomicEGT]

out of curiosity, why do you want to use $11/quart oil in a BP?

my 400-something whp GTR doesn't even get that. (I use Mobil 1 Extended Performance, though I was considering switching to Rotella T6)

[Zorix]

With their synthetic fiber filter I can stretch my drain interval to 1 year so it would actually save me money in the long run and the filter will take care of abrasive particles better. The filter is quite a bit more expensive but I also do not want to go through another extensive rebuild as well. I didn't take care of this engine the way I should have, so now I want to treat it right.

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-systems/oil/amsoil-ea-oil-filters/?code=EA15K13-EA

[atomicEGT]

the thought of 15k/one year oil changes just made my head explode.

it's a nice idea for sure, though given the B-series tendency to leak oil from pretty much everywhere, I don't know about how realistic it is?

I *think* there's a thread about oil and stuff in one of the tech sub-forums, lemme see if I can find it

edit: dang, no luck- there's a few interesting articles in General Automotive on magnetic filtration and oil standards and stuff written by goldstar that are worth checking out though

[goldstar]

http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?13295

Happy Motoring!

[Zorix]

Thanks for the detailed information, goldstar.

[goldstar]

You're welcome. Glad to help.

Happy Motoring!

[photoeye0]

Wix 51334 filter and I use T6 in everything! 67 Camaro, both Subarus and the Mazda. When I worked in auto part a couple years ago I was "the oil guy" I even had a amsoil dealer ship I guess you'd call it (...never sold a single bottle...) I use to have all the spec sheets with all the PPM breakdowns. The EPA is pushing oil manufacturers to get all oil under 800ppm (If memory serves) and with flat tappets (i.e. Camaro) and slappy pistons (i.e. Subarus) or something that faces high heat and pressures (i.e. Mazda) you need more. The advantage with diesel motor oils in my experience is the EPA is letting them get by with more of "the good stuff" in there oils because... will listen to a 5.9 start on even a 40* morning...they need it.

As for the filters I prefer Wix. After cutting open most all the major manufacturers filters I just found Wix the most consistent with filter media pleating, construction quality, filter media size, and drain back protection. They also have the best tech line I've dealt with.

As for all this 12k 1 year BS. There I NO way I'd use an oil filter for more then 6k tops and 3k on an older car. If you read the fine print most even state you need to replace the filter every so often for them to back the 12k 1 year up. Further more that's for regular people driving regular cars...if your driving around a 20+ year old mazda, I'm sorry but your not it.

My recommendation:
Parts store premium filter (NOT FRAM!!) I like wix as stated, and a premium synthetic oil. If you boosted or are a spirited driver, try to find something with some good zinc and phosphorus numbers...and change that crap every 3k like you should...and PLEASE for the love of god don't spend over $10 a quart. If you haven't started leaking it yet... your going to.

...but that's just my (some random internet guy) opinion.

[1Mazda323Fan]

My $.02. Firstly, I would recommend an early oil change after the rebuild; somewhere in the 500-1000 mile range. This isn't strictly necessary, but is usually recommended to remove any wear particles formed from the engine breaking back in. For this reason, I recommend using conventional oil for the initial period after the rebuild, then switching to synthetic, purely for the cost involved. Using synthetic immediately should have no ill effects on anything other than your wallet. Secondly, as to the oil in question, you don't need any oil with high levels of ZDDP ('zinc') in it. Any oil, synthetic or conventional, will have a sufficient amount to provide the necessary protection. This may not hold true in the (possibly near) future, as the allowed level seems to be shrinking, but for now any brand will suffice. On that note, I don't really see a need on spending the money for Amsoil. I've never used it personally, but I've no doubt it is a superior product. However, unless you intend to highly modify the engine, I feel the cost is unwarranted, even only changing it once a year. I have used Castrol products successfully for many years; my current car has 195.xxx miles and has run Castrol semi-synthetic for the past 20-odd thousand miles, and I saw a decrease in oil consumption and an improvement in overall engine operation. I, personally, would recommend their full synthetic oil (Edge with Syntec) and a good quality filter (Bosch, Mobil, Wix, etc.). Again, this is just my opinion, but the cost of Amsoil is just too much for me. If cost is of little object to you, you may also look at Redline and Motul for oil. Regardless, with any of the oils I listed you should have no issue going 12k between oil changes. Just remember to periodically check the oil level. Good luck on the rebuild. Hope this helped out.

[FE3-323]

change the filter- change the filter- and dont' forget to change the filter.
every 1500-2k miles is good practice. watch your oil for common issues that warrant an actual fluid change. I.E. overfueling/fuel contamination etc.
at a couple bucks a filter, why not.
my jap engine is still running today & only because of how meticulous I was with changing the filters & fluid. import engines are known to be notoriously dirty inside.

[1LordAnubis]

The mobile 1 synthetic has a promotion right now... http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_Rules.aspx

Though usually I just go pennzoil full synthetic, I've gotten (2) 5 qts of valvoline dino oil for free before

As to the filter, WIX; as has been stated, the wix is of a higher quality, with more pleats on the inside if you open it up. Good value/what they use in nascar. There's also more area/it's longer than other filters....
The k&n filter is more convenient if you don't have a oil wrench on hand, you can simply use an adjustable wrench to get it on or off but I think it's like $14 for this convenience

I use the wix xp, # 51356XP for a couple of dollars more... but I do like to push the oil changes...

So yeah, Wix # 51356 is what I use, but I'm not sure what the better one would be, that's just what that they list on rockauto which is teh longer of the filters:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=734501