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    Oil on Pistons

    Hello I recently bought a 03 protege es, bought the car at auction with body damage and mechanical issue. When I got the car I could see someone had replaced the head, wp, timing belt. All cylinders had coolant in then, I thought Ok bad head gasket or job not done right(was the case) or bad head. Pulled it apart and appeared that the head was super worped, head gasket appeared to be reused with that copper spray on it. So I went to the local u pull it and got a head, straight edged looked pretty good, re lapped the valves, cleaned and new stem seals. Re installed the head with a new head gasket and head bolts, primed and started car runs great no smoke. Wile doing body work running the car out of the shop wp leaking so replaced, Wile doing so I noticed oil in #1,replaced valve stem seals again(in car) and no luck.. Very frustrated comp tested 180ish all cylinders, #2 stayes dry, 1,3,4 have oil and comp is the same.. Opinions? Bad valve guides or rings? Car has 92k on it. Only smokes on start up, no smoke running, driving, warm, decell, running hard or out the dip stick, any opinions, thoughts will be greatly appreciated.. I didn't leak down test because I don't have one,thanks
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    Last edited by sngl13b; 08-27-2014, 09:05 PM. Reason: Adding pictures

    #2
    Did you check the block? Deck could be warped too.
    '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
    '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
    http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

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      #3
      Yea I did straight edge the block and seemed flat don't think I could get any size feeler Guage in, I did get another head yesterday at the junkyard but ends up its worped and think beyond being re surfaced.. Ordered rings and other head gasket that should be in tomorrow, everyone I ask says it's rings due to it being over heated I think multiple times and the walls show sings. Wish I would have taken pics of them as I pulled the head back off this morning, any way of checking the guides myself(a simple check?), with the amount of oil and how fast it gets there I think oil will pour out the valves when oil is poured on top of the valves? Co worker carb cleaned and blew out the cylinders ran it til the fans cycled, let cool pulled plugs and soaked(prior to pulling back apart), also if the guides are bad should new stem seals at least mask them til they wear the seals, faster than normal? Thanks for the reply..I will take some pictures in the morning and post them

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        #4
        I also tried sea foam but didn't drive the car much with it in it since the car isn't titled or registered or insured just drove back road by work, put approx 50 miles since actually getting it running, thanks again for any advice

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          #5
          Ya gotta do leakdown test. Since there is oil clear up in the ports, I kinda think it ain't rings. But you haven't mentioned checking the intake plumbing for oil. You say #2 is dry but all those pix kinda look nasty to me. Hard to tell. So you might have huge blowby compressing the crankcase and blowing oil past the pcv valve. Or the rings are fine and you have a bad pcv valve. if the intake tract is dry then it's prolly either valveguides or stemseals. With a pssible good compressionring/bad oilring scene. Or headgasket again. No way to know really without checking intake plumbing and do a leakdown...
          '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
          '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
          http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

          Comment


            #6
            Pulled the bottom end apart, I think it's all junk.. Added pictures above and cylinder 4 is super bad, rod bearings are hurt, main bearings also, crank is on the mains I just pulled the center main cap. Tried to feeler gauge the ring clearance on the Pistons and the oil ones seam to be out of spec, meaning I can fit a larger feeler gauge than I should.. When the oil rings "loose their tension" as I've been told happens when engine is over heated does this mean the ring becomes smaller and doesn't go past the diameter of the piston or become smaller top to bottom which I think is the case here? Pardon my stupid question but I work on rotaries and not to familiar with piston engines. I did see a bit of oil in the plenum but might of been from the pcv valve wich I did cap the t and leave the valve to atmosphere to see if that was what was causing it and didn't seem to help, next thing I'm thinking of doing Is going back to the junkyard and getting a block of a 626 I saw there and re ring it as I don't know if these Pistons or block is even worth fixing. Not sure if the pictures show anything obvious except for the walls being super bad? Also still not sure if the head is the problem but I think it's obvious the bottom ends took a beating and possibly the cause? Thanks again Jay for the advice, opinions and thoughts

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              #7
              well wound up being the bottom end..went to the junkyard and got another block,re ringed swapped the same head onto and has been fine for almost 3 weeks now.i wish i had listened to my boss when he told me to re ring it the first time around since it was overheated but i just kept saying to myself it has low miles or that i would have spun the engine over with the head off and saw what cylinder #4 looked like and i wouldn't have just swapped the head and would have rebuilt the whole thing the first time around..live and learn i guess,thanks again jay for the help..might be pming you about some trans questions on my 90 awd that i might be rebuilding soon,thanks again

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