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2000 Protege DX 1.6L 5 spd wont start or run hot - runs perfect cold

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    2000 Protege DX 1.6L 5 spd wont start or run hot - runs perfect cold

    My 2000 Protégé DX 1.6L engine starts up and runs perfectly until the engine gets warm then it quits and won't start again until the engine cools off.

    The check engine light is NOT on, and the engine runs perfectly smooth and strong --- until it gets warm and it will just quit dead whether you are driving it or it is sitting in the driveway idling.

    Obviously temperature related but anyone have any suggestions. My nearest auto parts store is about 10 miles away and I'm reluctant to drive that far to check for codes, but if the check engine light is not on then there wouldn't be any codes right? Would it set codes if the check engine light is NOT on??

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

    #2
    Does it turn over when it gets hot? Crank no start situation

    92 GT GTX Autox machine Dead and gone

    98 ZX2 Currently rusty Need a new car

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      #3
      Originally posted by jay92gt View Post
      Does it turn over when it gets hot? Crank no start situation
      Yes, it turns over fine and sounds like it's actually trying to fire a plug or two but just won't start.

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        #4
        I would check the fuel pressure first. The fuel pump might be clogged and or just faulty and not working when the it gets hot.

        92 GT GTX Autox machine Dead and gone

        98 ZX2 Currently rusty Need a new car

        Comment


          #5
          If you have a way of checking fuel pressure that would be helpful to ruling out the pump. Unfortunately this car does not have a Schrader valve to momentarily check for pressure (BTW, always use caution - and do at your own risk if you do, as there is a fire/fuel spray hazard). If you have a timing light you can check for spark. If the car dies idling or going down the road (I assume it doesn't die at a stop?) then it does seem like a fuel or spark failure. I'm wondering if the car is transferring from open to closed loop when it dies?

          Sadly the myth that OBD II "will tell you what the problem is" really only points to a multiplicity of causes. And, from my experience the problem usually turns out to be rather abstract from anything a list of "common" causes indicated. I've heard that disconnecting a sensor will force the computer into a "limp home" mode. Maybe you can try that with a few of the readily reachable sensor connectors. It that mode it runs on preset maps instead of sensor data. OBD "Oh Brother - DREAD."

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            #6
            I'll start by checking the fuel pressure - I have a snap-on gauge and the Mazda service manual which describes the procedure. As far as connecting the gauge to the "quick-connect" hoses, does anyone know if they are a 5/16" or a 3/8" quick connect? Snap-on has both the male and female quick connect adaptors in the 5/16 size but Dorman also makes a much cheaper one in both 5/16 and 3/8".

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              #7
              Finally got around to checking for codes... it was the code for the camshaft position sensor. I replaced it and just drove it about 80 miles with no problems..... car is running great finally.

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