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Rear end shift around turns-new trailing arms?

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    Rear end shift around turns-new trailing arms?

    On this newly purchased, rusted underneath, 2002 ES, I find the rear end shifts to the outside, mostly on right turns. This is the first time I've encountered this problem in a Protégé. Looking under the rear end, there is a gap at the end of the trailing arm between the end and the bolt, where the bushing should be, on both? Would this cause the shifting problem? If so, what would be the best trailing arms to buy? I read that AWR are more high performance than for just every day street use. I would appreciate it if someone could educate me in this, as this is a whole new area for me. Thanks, and I'm sorry if this has been addressed on another thread. I'm finding that since this car spent the first nine years in RI and NH, all the rubber bushings probably need to be replaced.

    #2
    What you are describing could absolutely be caused by worn trailing arm bushings. Replacing the arms is a good place to start, but do some other checks as well. Check the other suspension bushings, make sure everything looks straight (frame too), and check for abnormal tire wear. Make sure the wheel bearings are in good shape too. As to the arms themselves, the AWR arms would be a good choice. They differ from OEM replacement parts by substituting urethane bushings in place of the stock rubber. The upsides of urethane are significantly increased durability (you may never have to replace them) and they will stiffen up the suspension slightly. There shouldn't be any degradation in ride quality, but there may be an increase in handling performance. If you replace every bushing with urethane you will almost certainly notice a stiffer ride and less compliance, owing to urethane's resistance to deformation, but with just the arms you shouldn't have any ill effects on ride quality. The only downside to the AWRs is their price, but if you're willing to spend the money, I would say buy them. One question, though: are you noticing any noises coming from the rear end, or any wandering while driving straight? I hope this helps, and let us know how things work out.
    1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

    Next up: Speed6 or RX-8

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      #3
      The car has never been in an accident, so I'm pretty sure the frame is straight. I am going to have the shifter bushings, stabilizer bar bushings and muffler hangers replaced Monday. Most of the noise I'm hearing in the rear is the muffler hitting and the worn out hangers making noise. It sounds like there is someone in the trunk! The previous owner already replaced the link arms. I don't hear any bearing noise and it tracks true and straight. I just put my new Michelins on this car, with only 3K on them, and have only had this car about 1K in miles. I had AWR motor mount inserts in my last ES so I'm aware of their urethane. I'm actually looking at a pair of Megan Racing trailing arms, any thoughts on those? I'll save about $25 and probably $20 in shipping from AWR, that's the only draw back to them is the cost of shipping.

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        #4
        The Megan Racing arms should be the same quality as the AWR. They're both respected names, and though I have no personal experience with them, I've not heard anything untowards about them. So, the Megans should be fine. If you aren't hearing any other strange noises, my guess is you'll just need the arms. Check all of the other bushings in the back too, though; the trailing arm bushings might not be the only ones that need replacing.
        1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

        Next up: Speed6 or RX-8

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          #5
          Thanks, 1Mazda323Fan, I went ahead and ordered the Megan Racing trailing links. I'll see if that fixes the problem. The only other noise I'm getting in the rear is, I think from the top strut mount. Maybe the guy who put in the new shocks didn't tighten everything up. He didn't tighten the bolts on the stabilizer links.
          The bushings in the lateral links are all broken, and unfortunately you can't just replace those without replacing the lateral links.
          My main concern is fixing the drifting/shifting around the turns. That is a scary feeling! If replacing the trailing links doesn't fix it, then the lateral links will be next. I will hopefully find out next Monday.
          I also have to replace the whole gear shifter, as the bottom plate and pins in it are extremely rusted, and about to fall out. I did have the shifter bushings replaced, and that made a big difference. And replacing the rear muffler hangers also alleviated some of the noise.
          Last edited by mazdamom53; 03-24-2015, 07:18 PM.

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            #6
            let us know if the megan arms are rubber or if they are polyurethane. i've been really curious about that.
            thanks in advance
            ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

            1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




            I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
            he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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              #7
              I bought them off Ebay, and the description says the bushings are made of high-stress and anti-cracking hardened reinforced rubber, supposedly 150% harder than OEM, viscosity is 2000KGS.
              I'm sure they are not even comparable to AWR urethane, but must be better than stock. And I'm not planning on racing or anything. I just enjoy going around on ramps between 40 and 50mph, and had no problems at all in my last two Proteges on stock bushings. So, these should be better, without being the best. I even drove on Road Atlanta and Carolina Motor Parks road tracks in my P5 on stock.
              I will definitely give an up-date after I get them and have them installed.

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                #8
                I'm sure you'll be quite satisfied with the Megan arms. Sorry to hear the whole shifter needs to be replaced. That's unfortunate, but New England winters are brutal on cars. Yea for salt! Definitely keep us updated. I hope the trailing arms are the only thing causing your odd handling.
                1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

                Next up: Speed6 or RX-8

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                  #9
                  Ok, had the trailing links put in today. Unfortunately it didn't stop the sliding rear end.
                  Does anyone have any idea what might make my rear end slide out around turns? In the cloverleaf turn, it starts out tracking fine, then about a quarter of the way into it, the rear end slides out like the tires aren't even really touching pavement. Everything else in the rear feels tight. Could it be the struts or something on the inside of the wheels? This is starting to frustrate me. The previous owner replaced all struts, so they're all new, but I don't know what else it could be.

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                    #10
                    your alignment?
                    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I didn't think you could align the rear. The front tracks straight. Although, my mechanic did mention something about if I had to get the lateral links and replace them, I'd need time for them to get aligned. But there is no way for them to move once they are attached, that I could see. I'm at a loss, and just don't know enough about rear suspension.

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                        #12
                        There should be an adjustment for the toe in the rear, and maybe for camber as well. It's possible the toe is out of spec in the rear, and is causing the unusual behaviour. My only other ideas are the lateral links and/or sway bar are shifting under load, either due to bad bushings or improper attachment. Start with an alignment, and have absolutely everything in the rear end checked for wear and any loose bolts or nuts. Are you still not hearing anything when the rear end steps out?
                        1995 626: daily beater, mostly stock. Future NASA racer?

                        Next up: Speed6 or RX-8

                        Comment


                          #13
                          toe out of place will cause the rear end to either come out, or track better. they have a really ****ty rear suspension alignment adjustment(camstyle bolts in the center) its very possible your alignment is off.
                          go get a free alignment check at a tires plus/etc & find out
                          ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                          1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                          I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                          he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks! I never had a problem with the rear alignment before?? And, no, it makes no noise at all. And, it seems to do it more when I go around to the right than to the left.
                            I will definitely have the toe and camber checked Monday and give an update whether this worked.
                            Thanks again.

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                              #15
                              Actually, I was just reading on Mazdas247 about strut torque specs. Since the previous owner installed new struts himself, could he have torqued them wrong? What could happen if the torque is off?
                              So, I think I figured it out. Yes there has been a noise, a rattling that sounds like someone is in the trunk and when I make left hand turns there is a rubbing moan that comes out of the passenger rear wheel area. I took the mechanic for a ride so he could hear it, but there was no noise. Later I put the boxed trailing arms on the back deck and the rattle wasn't there, so I assumed it was the plastic rear deck. Today I took the deck off and left the rear seats down. The rattle is still there, only louder of course, and there is a grating, hum type rubbing noise in the rear pass. I'm thinking the guy who replaced the struts, didn't tighten the rear pass strut mount enough. When I make left hand turns, I'm putting weight on that strut, but when I make right turns, there is no weight on the strut and no traction as well. So, it seems likely most of my problems are stemming from that strut mount??
                              Last edited by mazdamom53; 03-29-2015, 03:46 PM.

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