My Head Hurts

[FE3-323]

i wish i could go for a ride in this. i havent' felt a high comp BP in awhile

[FamiliaGT]

Agreed. Had some minor family issues pop up this weekend. I will shoot you a text when I'm home from work, possibly tomorrow.

[1st Gen]

I noticed that about the rings too. It took me a while to decide that it was going to be alright and to go ahead and assemble it. I wonder why they do that?

i wish i could go for a ride in this. i havent' felt a high comp BP in awhile

It's got some weird power curve characteristics now. If I mash the peddle, it bogs. WOT doesn't give the flat out sensation it used to. If I just push the throttle a bit and let the RPM's rage, the car goes like hell. It's defiantly faster.

Agreed. Had some minor family issues pop up this weekend. I will shoot you a text when I'm home from work, possibly tomorrow.

I'll be around most of the day. I won't be available this evening or late afternoon, but till then, I'm just doing daddy duty.

I think I'm going to take it down to Les Schwab and see if I can't get them to diagnose a problem for me. The car squeaks below 20mph, and pretty badly. It did this before the rebuild and I was never able to track it down. I'm think it has to be one of the rear wheel bearings, but I've never heard of one of those going out. When I put it up on jackstands, it doesn't do it. I don't know.

[FamiliaGT]

Does it do it over bumps or constantly while driving?
And I have a few things to get done today but maybe able to swing by.

[1st Gen]

http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/showthread.php?57455-Slight-Idle-Problem-after-swapping-over-from-3-to-4-wire-TPS-on-a-non-turbo-BP&p=752775&viewfull=1#post752775

Idles too high when it warms up.

[FE3-323]

define "too high" and 4 wire TPS is proper for use with the GTX/GTR ecu's

[1st Gen]

It idles about 1100 RPM's cold, then goes up to 1500 plus. It's been getting as high as 2K. If it's idling at 2K, I'll bump the gas peddle and it's go down bellow 2k when it comes down again, but then it's right back up.
When I very first started this car, it idled at around 700 RPM's. It's getting worse.

I don't think it's an air leak because the RPM's needle doesn't fluctuate up and down at all. I'm willing to entertain any idea though.

[Kitty]

Is the vaf sticking?

Something is horribly wrong there.

[azgtx]

Pinch off the bac/ isc valve hoses with some big channelocks and see what you get.

[1st Gen]

I reread my post and realized I may have described it poorly. I'm going to start it and watch it for 5 minutes or so, then report back. It's going to be a day or two before I get this done though. My life just got really complicated for the next while.

[1st Gen]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MJQU2ZRqtSE

Here's the vid. It's about 6 minutes. It just shows the car warming up. The rise in idle speed doesn't come until the end, and it never gets to 2k like it does while I'm driving. I have the Y code VAF on it that came with the engine. I cleaned it and sprayed it down with WD 40 so thought it would work out okay. The A code I bought is on the other car for now. I think that will be one of the remedies I'll try to get this problem under control. It's easy and will only take a minute.

I wish you could see the temp gauge better.
I might do another one tomorrow.

What you can't hear is the loud HLA's at start up, and the smell of burning oil as soon as it starts warming up. I need to get it back on stands and see where that smell is coming from. It doesn't leak a drop when sitting.

[FamiliaGT]

Its weird, mine has done that too. When its hot out and ive been driving it a while, If I let off the gas and let it idle in neutral, it idles high, then hits about 2k, and drops down below 1k suddenly, then goes back up. I cant pin it out.

[1st Gen]

I discovered that the idle goes way up when I put the car in gear, but not when I push the clutch in. Weird.
I put the A code VAF on but no effect. I have a spare IAC lying around somewhere, I'll look at swapping that out here soon. Maybe the TPS too. IDK.
I also tightened down the valve cover gasket to get that leak stopped. I hope that takes care of the oil issue. I'm a little concerned about this but hope it will stop when I put the heavier oil in after the break in period.

[1st Gen]

It occurs to me that running 0w-20 weight oil in a cylinder head and turbo that had been running 10w-30 weight might be a good way to burn a lot of oil. I'm going to put 5w-20 weight in at another hundred miles or so.

[FamiliaGT]

Why are you running 0w20 on break in? Given that these motors are designed to run 5w30/10w30, the last thing you want to run during break in of these is a thinner oil. Straight 30 weight for the first 3000 miles would do best. using thin weight/ Synthetic oil does not allow the bearings and rings to seal properly, causing blow by and oil burning. Non detergent oil is best for break in.