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    O2 sensor bad. This JDM engine and harness use a three wire sensor. Just try buying a three wire sensor. I ended up buying a 4 wire Bosch and splicing the wires. Works great.
    Glad to have my daily running again. It still burns oil, but at least it runs. I'll save for another engine overhaul and see if I can get this pony running like it's supposed to.
    1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
    1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
    2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
    1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

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      I'm going to tear this apart again after the holidays to hone the cylinders. I might have the turbo rebuilt too. Not sure if it's worth it.
      1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
      1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
      2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
      1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

      Comment


        have you tried another turbo? or running it NA?
        ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

        1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




        I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
        he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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          I swapped out another VJ 20 with no change. The spare turbo might be foobar too. Don't think so though.
          1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
          1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
          2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
          1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

          Comment


            Turbos are very simple mechanical thingamagigs. Don't be afraid to take them apart and rebuild them. There's barely anything in there. A few oil seals, a brass regulator plate, A wheel and shaft assembly, A bearing. Seriously though, people think its magic but its really not. Before calling a rebuild. Please take of the exhaust side of the turbo and please verifiy your spark plugs. Start it up unitl it's warm, shut her down and check plugs. If you are using up that much oil there will be signs somewhere. If it come from the exhaust side of the turbo its the turbo seals. If its wet on the intake side, same deal, If neither of those then your plugs must be wet at some point. Don't pull them 30 min after you revved it, if theyre of the right heat range chances are they cleaned that oil right off the ceramic.

            Comment


              Originally posted by wknd326 View Post
              Turbos are very simple mechanical thingamagigs. Don't be afraid to take them apart and rebuild them. There's barely anything in there. A few oil seals, a brass regulator plate, A wheel and shaft assembly, A bearing. Seriously though, people think its magic but its really not. Before calling a rebuild. Please take of the exhaust side of the turbo and please verifiy your spark plugs. Start it up unitl it's warm, shut her down and check plugs. If you are using up that much oil there will be signs somewhere. If it come from the exhaust side of the turbo its the turbo seals. If its wet on the intake side, same deal, If neither of those then your plugs must be wet at some point. Don't pull them 30 min after you revved it, if theyre of the right heat range chances are they cleaned that oil right off the ceramic.
              There are things about turbos I don't understand, but that has more to do with how much air pressure creates how high of temperatures that gets us so much horse power from what kind of trim. The idea of a turbo was explained to me by my dad when I was 10. I'm pretty sure I could get it apart and back together, I just don't know what a perfectly performing turbo is supposed to look like. Absolutely NO shaft play? Are there adjustments? What kind of oil do I use when rebuilding it?

              What makes me relatively sure it's the oil rings is because the oil turns black so fast. I think I have a leak too but most of it's going out the tail pipe in the form of blue smoke. I do need to pull the plugs though. I'll do that soon.

              I realized I had it tuned way to rich too. I took a rode trip last week and got 22 MPG.

              Also, my driver side power window is stripped out again. I went to Rockauto and looked at what they have but it doesn't look the same. Yea, sometimes the pics don't match the actual part, but I'm so tired of getting incorrect parts that it's enough to make me shy away.
              1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
              1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
              2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
              1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

              Comment


                No shaft play. There's specs that you can get from the manufacturer of the turbo in mind but it's always so minute that it's pretty much No play. Old turbos use a brass bushing looking bearing with collars. Google some exploded views. You'll see there's barely anything in there.

                On a side note, running too rich washes down the oil on your cylinder walls and may result in scuffing and improper ring seating and the oil get contaminated pretty hard and may lose lost of its lubrication properties. Pull the plugs, drain the oil.

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