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Thread: Scooter Information

  1. #1
    Man-dingo Moddin' Bitch! XxToKeSxX's Avatar
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    Scooter Information

    Last edited by XxToKeSxX; 09-08-2015 at 07:03 AM.
    1998 Subaru Forester S/Turbo | Shaggin' Wagon
    1990 Mazda Miata MX5 | WTF I can drag asphalt with my hand
    2003 MuZ Baghira 660 SM | Single Slammer
    2008 KTM 250sx 2T Supermoto | Kart Track Killer

    Shift_Buy Broken & Build...

  2. #2
    suspension mods intheworks FE3-323's Avatar
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    what scooter do you have?
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it


  3. #3
    Man-dingo Moddin' Bitch! XxToKeSxX's Avatar
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    It's a Chinese GY6 motored Lifan 150cc for my girlfriend Wow I need to update my sig bad... wow.
    1998 Subaru Forester S/Turbo | Shaggin' Wagon
    1990 Mazda Miata MX5 | WTF I can drag asphalt with my hand
    2003 MuZ Baghira 660 SM | Single Slammer
    2008 KTM 250sx 2T Supermoto | Kart Track Killer

    Shift_Buy Broken & Build...

  4. #4
    Man-dingo Moddin' Bitch! XxToKeSxX's Avatar
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    Exploded View Diagrams --> Check Body, then Console and Instrument Panel
    http://www.rchillmitsubishi.com/mits...ante-parts.htm

    Heater Core Replacement --> Scroll down to Diamante 00
    http://ownerpdfmanual.blogspot.com/2...itsubishi.html

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    1. Disconnect the negative side of the battery. You'll be working around the passenger side air bag and you don't want that to go off!!!

    2. Order 2 (TWO) O-Ring gaskets, Mitsubishi Part Number MR927776, they were $2.65 each on-line + $9 shipping. For what it's worth, it appears that the newer ones are a different design. The original (from my 2001 D) has a ridge around the outer perimeter on one side only (though it could have been flattenend out from being installed). The new ones have a ridge around both sides, so I assume they seal better. HOWEVER, I just noticed another post that indicated that the TSB listed the MR925655 part. (Hope I didn't put in the wrong gasket!!!)

    3. Get the freon removed from the car. (I have a friend that removed and will recharge the system for me).

    4. Make sure the engine is cool. Drain the anti-freeze. You don't need to jack up the car. Put a pan under the front right of the car and reach down between the engine and radiator and turn the white plastic valve a few turns, and let it drain straight down, be patient (Don't remove the valve). Once the fluid is drained, tighten the valve again. You'll get about 1 gallon of anti-freeze mix.

    5. Remove ONLY one of the two heater hoses, closest to the passenger side, on the firewall. The other heater hose doesn't have to come off. I used a pointed nose pliers to squeeze the clamp, and pulled it back over the hose. You may have to turn the clamp to get good access. Put a towel below the hose to catch the coolant that will leak out and twist and then pull the hose off.

    6. Remove the 10mm bolt from the smaller AC line at the firewall, behind the engine, as well as the bolt that helps to attach the same line to the firewall (for extra play when sealing the line).

    7. Remove the 12mm nut from the larger AC line at the firewall. I found that a long extension and a flex

    8. Seal the ends of the AC lines (I used plastic bags and rubber bands) to keep any debre out.

    9. Remove the rubber hose with the 90 degree bend located slightly to the right of the AC lines. This is the AC condensation drain hose.

    NOTE: When working under the dash, it helps to have a knee pad or something to kneel on.

    10. Moving inside the car, Remove the Under Cover assembly below the glove box. There are 3 plastic fasteners that pull straight out.

    11. Remove the Glove Box (2 Phillips screws) and then the glove box frame (4 Phillips screws). Use pointed nose pliers to remove the tabs that hold the wire to the top of the frame, and use a flat blade screwdriver to remove the connector on the top of the glove box frame. This connector goes to the passenger side air bag. Handle with care!

    12. Remove the metal frame bracket from under the glove box, being careful not to damage the wire to the light switch. Use a fine tipped screwdriver to pry the small connector catch (wrapped in foam to keep from rattling) so that connector pulls apart easily.

    13. Remove the left side heavy "Z" brackets from the round tubular frame from above the evaporator unit. The one on the right side doesn't have to come off, it won't be in the way.

    14. Remove the 2 12mm bolts at the top of the AC Evaporator and the 12mm nut at the bottom. Also disconnect the two connectors that are on the side of the evaporator.

    NOTE: You do not need to remove clips that hold the two halves of the evaporator housing, nor the black connector block on the right side, nor the black plastic piece on the left side of the box. NOTE: The fan assembly on the right side does NOT need to be removed.

    15. Pull the carpet back to make some extra room and so that when some of the AC oil leaks out, it won't get on the carpet.

    16. Now comes the tough part, getting the evaporator housing out. (i.e.: 10 lb evaporator, 5 lb opening!!). Pull it forward some, then bend the front down (toward the floor) and pull it around. Takes a bit of playing, but it will come out. There will be a bit of AC oil that drains out on the floor, but with the carpet pulled back, just wipe it off the underlayment floor surface. Shouldn’t be more than about 1/4 oz.

    NOTE: After re-installing the evaporator, I think that it might be wise to bend the metal bracket that holds the left side of the glove box (attached to the center console inside supports) back and out of the way. This should not only help in getting the box out, but also back in (which is WORSE than trying to get it out!)

    17. Looking up to the left, you'll see the hoses that are connected to the heater core. You won't be able to remove the heater core, but you will be able to remove the 4 screws (#20 torx head) from each of the two hose blocks. BUT FIRST put 2 or 3 towels on the floor (stuff them around the metal brackets) to keep the coolant from draining into the floor mats.

    18. You will be able to remove the upper black plastic hose end (twist it upward), but the other metal pipe is fairly firmlly entrenched. There is enough room to remove the plastic bracket between the hose and the heater core though, along with the o-ring.

    19. Spend some time cleaning up the anti-freeze from the area to help get rid of the smell, or it may be around for a long time. I did note that they put a piece of plastic on the top of the ECU (under the foot distributor duct) so reach in with a paper towel and wipe it off. There was some discussion on the board about covering it completely, but my concern (being an electronics engineer) that if you seal it too tight, it won't be able to cool as well as it needs to. Anyway, I used a squirt bottle to put some water around the heater core, but it doesn't drain out. Soak up the water with paper towels. (Anyone have a better idea on how to clean up?)

    NOTE: There is a plastic bezel that goes between the lower hose connection on the heater core, which surrounds the lower o-ring. There are some square prongs that stick out. These prongs go toward the heater core. Look at the upper plastic hose connection, it's essentially the same, but the piece with the prongs is not removable.

    20. I would suggest that when you are putting the heater core screws back in, with the new gaskets, that you add a touch of a medium strength lock-tite to the screws so there's less chance that they will work their way out again. Remember that the screws go into a plate of aluminum, about 1/8 inch thick.

    DON'T OVER TIGHTEN!

    21. Be careful when putting the evaporator back in, not to damage the fitting surface. When re-installing the AC lines, don't over tighten. They are aluminum fittings. Handle with care.

    22. Getting the evaporator box back in is worse than trying to get it out. You're on your own here. I ended up breaking the black plastic bracket behind the left glove box support (so I bent the metal bracket back, as mentioned above). I just glued it back into place with a good epoxy. No one will ever see it.

    Reassembly is the reverse. Use new Anti-Freeze to replace what you've drained.
    Last edited by XxToKeSxX; 07-08-2015 at 10:40 AM.
    1998 Subaru Forester S/Turbo | Shaggin' Wagon
    1990 Mazda Miata MX5 | WTF I can drag asphalt with my hand
    2003 MuZ Baghira 660 SM | Single Slammer
    2008 KTM 250sx 2T Supermoto | Kart Track Killer

    Shift_Buy Broken & Build...

  5. #5
    suspension mods intheworks FE3-323's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XxToKeSxX View Post
    It's a Chinese GY6 motored Lifan 150cc for my girlfriend Wow I need to update my sig bad... wow.
    1st mod you should do to any GY6 motor is throw in a high flow oil pump. if you don't its likely to blow up.
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it


  6. #6
    Man-dingo Moddin' Bitch! XxToKeSxX's Avatar
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    A motor only costs like $300 hehe... let it blow!!!
    1998 Subaru Forester S/Turbo | Shaggin' Wagon
    1990 Mazda Miata MX5 | WTF I can drag asphalt with my hand
    2003 MuZ Baghira 660 SM | Single Slammer
    2008 KTM 250sx 2T Supermoto | Kart Track Killer

    Shift_Buy Broken & Build...

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