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Jackstand Racer Needing slicks and tune.

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    Jackstand Racer Needing slicks and tune.

    Hey this care has been racing the jackstands for a while now. I'm getting it tuned a few days from now and I'm in the process of finding the right slick. Wondering what the widest size slick anyone has fit on a 323 before was. Any input welcome. A few pics for the curious.

    Click image for larger version

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    Somehow im unable to make this video work. Sry.
    Last edited by wknd326; 07-21-2015, 10:28 PM.

    #2
    What in the world.... I like it.
    Mazda
    1988 Black 323 GT
    DOHC 16 VALVE TURBO

    2013 Velocity Red Mica Mazdaspeed3

    Comment


      #3
      there is so much wtf happening here but I am totally into it
      sigpic

      03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
      92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

      Comment


        #4
        It really just a 323 shell. Nothing left but the rear suspension and the front shocks that are original. So yeh theres lots of custom fabbed stuff and things in testing.

        Comment


          #5
          more info on the dry ice setup???
          ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

          1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




          I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
          he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

          Comment


            #6
            Well...
            I've been tinkering with different methods of iceing my intake.

            Method 1 was regular ice. It works but its not great, wouldnt be very good during full boost.

            Method 2 Dry ice in a 90/10 mixture of ethanol/water. Works nice but the heat transfer is limited inside the exchanger (intercooler you see on top of the valve cover) because the dry ice introduces C02 as a gas inside the mixture as it sublimates and boils. So is makes for real bad aeration inside the exchanger which in turn makes it not very efficent but still we can see way lower temps then regular ice @ no load conditions. We got air temps as low as -3.5degress C but the intake system was @-27 degress C or just about. It also required a **** load of ice.

            Method 3 Chill the ethanol down to -40 and insert only this in the tank. It works pretty good but the systems thermal inertia it takes at least 1 flush. And then a refill to reduce the temps more and then after the 3rd refill I should be able to sustain about -20c or so. I don't like it because it requires too much mix and hassle and all.

            So after all those tests and mapping out a spreadsheet considering the engines variables @ 3bar pressure and everything I came to the conclusion that I need to build a coil set up inside the tank in order to run a much lighter ethanol/water mix through that while i chill the coils with dry ice and 90/10 Ethanol/water. That way there would be no CO2 in my heat exchanger mix and I would benefit from having a much better exchange as water has more then twice the capabilities. 4.6 for water and 2.2 for ethanol.

            Thats the research as of now. I'm actually fixing some issues with my bearings which I have ****ed up. **** happens when you build and engine about 4 years ago and leave it in a dirty garage with the oil pan open. Oh and I reversed a rod cap which cause this damage to occur.

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            This is when I say - " Don't ever expect perfect work from imperfect people " cough cough - yeh thats me.

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              #7
              Alright so bottome end fixed and while in there I shimmed the oil pump spring 2.5mm and decided to run 20W50. Starts right up and sounds great. No loss of oil pressure what so ever. A solid 10-12 psi from 800-1000 rpm. And 12 psi per 1000 rpm after.

              It held back my dyno day but its ok. It reschedules for nextweekend. So while I wait Im attacking all the little things. The 1000 other little things.

              - Looms to lengthen (clutch/break switch.)
              -Locking down the ecu to the floor or bracket for floor.
              -Cleaning lots of dirt.
              -Water pump/temp sensor loom sheathing.
              -Calculating Rim backspace.
              -Replacing front right inner axle boot (torn)4
              -Replace front left lower ball joint (torn boot)
              -Pull speedo signal from dash to ecu
              -Install turbo timer for shift light and time/distance function

              I think thats plenty to keep me busy because I start working again next monday.

              Here's a dim shot of the trim i just installed around my dash. I also fixed up where my knees meet so I don't hurt myself getting in and out and did all around the door ways for the same reasons.Click image for larger version

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                #8
                shimming the oilpump has always seemed to help in my cars, glad to hear you did so
                ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                Comment


                  #9
                  So I crossed out a few things from the list.
                  - Unfortunately the speedometer does not output a usable signal for the aem infinity so I'm not sure what i will do as of yet. Probably put an abs ring on one of the axles and use that.

                  -I locked the ecu down. DONE

                  -Pressure tested my intake system. I need an o-ring for the manifold idle air by pass set screw. And I need to either replace or repair welds on the subaru blow off valve hackjob tube I made.

                  -I could't pull the axle nut off with the cheap gun we have a home so I need to bring my real air gun from work in order to replace c.v joint boot.

                  -Water pump wiring soldered and protected. DONE

                  -Made a place for all the gauges to get power @ "key" on instead of always power. I used to have to remove the fuse.

                  A few pics.
                  GEO metro alternator. Tiniest thing I could find at the JY for like 15$. Weight saving is everything!
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                  And the ecu sitting nice in an easy place to plug and work on. Just had to remove the original bracketry and tap some holes. Its on grommets. I know the ecu is potted to all hell but I like putting things on grommets so that things shake less and dont make noise. Theres enough things vibrating in the car. I really love my dash now that it has the clean black trim. Makes all the difference.


                  Click image for larger version

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                  And i made a video for a friend of mine. You can see some progress. Just pointing out a few things and saying hi to an old friend.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    so like... this is probably a dumb question, but wouldn't you see better results from the intercooler if your charge pipe wasn't run directly by your downpipe? or does it not matter with the ice setup? (I know literally nothing about AWICs)
                    sigpic

                    03 Accord DX: K24/5MT, peasant-spec old man's car
                    92 240SX: KA/T25, nerd mobile

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You are totally right that it would make a difference albeit small if my tubes ran farther from the exhause system. I definitely need to makes some sort of heat shielding to optimize the system. I'm not there yet and you will notice many thing that are imperfect. I already have many ideas for next year. I'm planning on tuning it. Racing it some. And if money is good next year I have many things that i'd like to change like location of intercooler, fuel system, exhaust manifold design and turbo orientation just to name a few.

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                        #12
                        After testing my intake for boost leaks with my homemade tester I've found many small leaks. The major ones i need to address are
                        1- the master cylinder/brake booster. I tried making a gasket for it but the booster has some kind of notch on the bottom of the whole. I also noticed that the master cylinder on this model does not have an o-ring and that it does not fit snug like most other brake master cylinders i've repaired or toyed with before. I'm unsure if that the way it is supposed to be. Maybe the original 323 had a valve in the booster hose instead. Tried to make a gasket. Didnt work. Tried a hefty silicon bead. Gonna let it sit until tommorrow. Probably wont work but I really don't want to put money on this so I need another cheap solution if this doesn't work.

                        2- the hackjob blow off valve i made up from an old forge (subaru model) from ebay is leaking around the joints. I brazed the valve with "fuze wire" , some kind of epoxy,aluminum brazing rod. It looked alright but it turns out its too porous and its leaking. Bought a new blow off valve and machined all the wholes and studs in the intercooler. Replaced old tube/valve with straight tube. DONE

                        3- IAT sensor on the intercooler. Doesnt have enough threads to really call it pipe thread. Quick fix though, some flange sealer to seal the threads up. DONE

                        4- A few clamps were either not tight enough or misplaced/aligned. DONE

                        5- Replaced the o-ring for the air by pass set screw on throttle body. DONE

                        That all the leaks i've found. Now for a few pics.

                        Loading the flange before i cut the middle out.
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                        Hole saws and cutting fluid are your friends. Cleaned up nicely with a file.
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                        Test fitting the assembly before i clamp any gaskets down. Perfect!
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                        Also to note. I have placed the new BOV to the hot side of the intake system.

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                          #13
                          -replaced front right axle boots.
                          -installed intercooler back on. Removed old blow off and fit up new intake tubes. Runs much farther away from exhaust manifold but is going to make it harder to make a decent hood for.
                          -Installed check valve for brake booster.
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                            #14
                            Alright so that all sealed and done. I made a bead roller today out of vise grips and an exhaust clamp. Kinda works ok. It's not the prettiest thing but it works.
                            Also took a bit of time to tune start up and the anti lag feature. Damn that was so fun. I also blew some mice out of my old exhaust muffler.

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                              #15
                              Working on dry ice heat exchange device number 3. There will be no Co2 induced into the system this time, in turn maximizing its efficiency. Also played around with more 2 step tuning. I can easily get 15-17 psi in about 3 sec @ 0km/h . I don't know how much i'll be launching with. We'll see on race day. I need a smaller wastegate spring in order to adjust that. The original cummins spring is 20.8 psi.

                              Here's a fun video! careful with the volume , i dont talk loud but the car does.


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