I wanted to clean my old BOV out because it's been used on a few cars and then thrown in a box for the last five years. There isn't much information on this JDM TYTE YO BOV so heres a thimble full.
It only needs a metric 3 and 2 allen wrench for disassembly, convenient.
I couldn't recall which way was more/less boost on this adjustment.
I also didn't know if the adjustment needed to be removed before anything else. It helped to remove it first.
I shot the last screw into the ceiling removing it. It took a while to find. The spring is quite strong, I think I'll clamp it if I take it apart again.
I have a type 4 apparently.
The adjustment bolt doesn't actually thread into the spring cap, it just pokes into it.
I was surprised by this.
Exploded view.
The piston was the only thing really dirty. It was quite the chore popping it out of the BOV body. It has a rubberized bottom sealing surface that I thought was a bladder type gasket originally.
38mm piston diameter. I know this is bigger than the forge the only bov I've taken apart in the last few years.
The body itself is pretty neat in design, the chambers in the top are sealed by the top cover so I image they're there for some sort of audible reason.
I don't remember how to guesswork spring rate or have any tool ability to do so.
It's 52mm in length 32mm in coil diameter and had a good deal of red paint on it, I'm sure it would be possible to look up the spring rate if really necessary.
Things I learned
No rubber gasket to fail. The rubber piston base is absurdly thick to the point it would need to melt to ever wear to a point of failure.
The spring is stupidly stiff, the adjustment range is quite lackluster. If compressor surge was a problem spring replacement/cutting would be required. If boost leakage was a problem shimming below the spring would fix it easily.
Because of the spring top plate and dome design it shouldn't leak at idle like a good number of sound oriented BOVs.
No wonder they go for $200+ presently.
It only needs a metric 3 and 2 allen wrench for disassembly, convenient.
I couldn't recall which way was more/less boost on this adjustment.
I also didn't know if the adjustment needed to be removed before anything else. It helped to remove it first.
I shot the last screw into the ceiling removing it. It took a while to find. The spring is quite strong, I think I'll clamp it if I take it apart again.
I have a type 4 apparently.
The adjustment bolt doesn't actually thread into the spring cap, it just pokes into it.
I was surprised by this.
Exploded view.
The piston was the only thing really dirty. It was quite the chore popping it out of the BOV body. It has a rubberized bottom sealing surface that I thought was a bladder type gasket originally.
38mm piston diameter. I know this is bigger than the forge the only bov I've taken apart in the last few years.
The body itself is pretty neat in design, the chambers in the top are sealed by the top cover so I image they're there for some sort of audible reason.
I don't remember how to guesswork spring rate or have any tool ability to do so.
It's 52mm in length 32mm in coil diameter and had a good deal of red paint on it, I'm sure it would be possible to look up the spring rate if really necessary.
Things I learned
No rubber gasket to fail. The rubber piston base is absurdly thick to the point it would need to melt to ever wear to a point of failure.
The spring is stupidly stiff, the adjustment range is quite lackluster. If compressor surge was a problem spring replacement/cutting would be required. If boost leakage was a problem shimming below the spring would fix it easily.
Because of the spring top plate and dome design it shouldn't leak at idle like a good number of sound oriented BOVs.
No wonder they go for $200+ presently.
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