Crank No Start After Rebuild

[boosted94]

Rebuilt, stock BP05 with VJ20 turbo. New battery, spark plugs, plug wires, fuel pressure is showing 40psi at the rail, I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key for power. Plug wires are installed on the distributor correctly. I checked for and have spark. Cam sprockets are lined up at I and E with piston 1 at TDC. I'm assuming the distributor locks into the exhaust cam one way, I could only get it on one way, it looks like one of the keys on the distributor-to-cam is chamfered so I'm assuming it's cut the same way on the cam to make the install idiot-proof. I played around with rotating the distributor at its mounting points on the head, clocked it to the left, right, middle, still the same results. I tried switching the two fuel lines from the filter thinking I may have mixed them up but that's not the case.

I'm running out of ideas. Video below, best angle I could get with a cell phone. Any help is greatly appreciated.

https://youtu.be/1FrwHup87ok

[jay]

Ya checked timing and spark. And fuel pressure. But did you check fuel delivery at the injectors? I've forgotten to plug 'em in before.
oh and the dist goes on 2 ways iirc.

[Kitty]

That's the worst no start BP I've ever heard.

I'd say timing is out 180 and your rotor is installed improperly as well.

[boosted94]

I bet this is the best running freshly rebuilt BP05 you've heard. And the distributor absolutely only goes on one way. The shaft is keyed with notches that favor one side making it completely idiot proof. I have a BP05 head with cams laying around I can take pictures of.

https://youtu.be/ZeWyUTQ_j58

[Kitty]

So what was your issue?


That sounds like every other open dump vj20 on youtube now.


I'll make sure to post my baby-potato open dump before tacking up the downpipe.(2016/Soon tm)

[boosted94]

Really, I'm hard pressed to find much in the way of multimedia for most of the motors and chassis on this forum. Everyone is too busy racing or repairing to take videos. Plenty of EJ-whatever and 4G-who gives a ****. Ground to distributor was loose. I'm surprised that's the only electrical anything I missed considering there is another harness in the car that was partially abandoned.

[atomicEGT]

gonna run for president on a platform of banning open dump exhaust videos on the grounds that they sound like hot garbage.

ps that is some serious HLA noise for a rebuilt motor.

ETA: distributor rotor can go on in three different positions, so you and Kitty could have both been right.

[boosted94]

It's an extra "remanned" head from an Escort GT. Pretty sure it was a junkyard pull blasted off with a garden hose. It works, fits, doesn't leak, was down the street from my house, and cost 150. What do you mean 3 different positions? Like rotating the rotor with the cap off?

[atomicEGT]

yeah, I've replaced the rotor before and not paid attention to where it was pointing and had it not start. also put the exhaust cam gear on the cam incorrectly (some of the gears have three slots marked I/E/Z instead of two) and had it not run because of that, too.

[boosted94]

I've seen the "Z" marking on a replacement sprocket I got from a Miata BP, was wondering what that was.

[1st Gen]

Assuming you have the E on the right and the I on the left, and all the notches lined up proper, it shouldn't be out of time, unless you're off a tooth. I'm not sure that 40 psi at the fuel rail is enough but I can't remember what it's supposed to be. The only thing I can think of besides fuel, is maybe a plug isn't seated properly. TPS, VAF, ECU, ect. Did you take any of the relays out?
When I put my disty back in after my rebuild, it would only go in one way. GTX cams and oem GTX disty.

[boosted94]

Got it running brother. Thank you all for the help.

One thing I noticed is the fuel pump primes with the B code VAFM. It doesn't with the A code. Both work and run, haven't road tested it yet, I'm sure the A code will help keep the fuel from cutting out.

[1st Gen]

Great news.

[Dixie94Pro]

Got it running brother. Thank you all for the help.

One thing I noticed is the fuel pump primes with the B code VAFM. It doesn't with the A code. Both work and run, haven't road tested it yet, I'm sure the A code will help keep the fuel from cutting out.

Late reply, but clip this contact as shown and your pump will run when the key is on. Don't clip it any shorter or break it off like I did!

[boosted94]

Late reply, but clip this contact as shown and your pump will run when the key is on. Don't clip it any shorter or break it off like I did!

[ATTACH]66380[/ATTACH]

I do not plan on opening the A code VAFM. It runs rich as hell and is unbearable at anything besides idle and WOT. But at the very least it doesn't cut boost/fuel/power/whatever at > 25% throttle like my B code did. I bought this to run the balls off it, not daily it.