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    Need help. Front right axle

    Okay so im posting trying to help out the guy I sold my BPT swapped GTX to. Apparently he took the car to a repair shop and failed to inform them that the car was no even close to stock. Long story short it needs a new front right axle knuckle and bearing they say. They will be paying for it.

    SO what axle knuckle and bearing will fit the front right of my swapped BPT.

    Yes this guy that bough the car is an idiot when it comes to car and I warned him many many times.

    Thank you

    #2
    You still need to use the bf gtx knuckle unless you swapped them to the BG stuff. And good luck to them in finding one unless they know where to look.

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      #3
      To be clear...they need the knuckle, bearings and axle?

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        #4
        What did they do to it to require an axle, bearing, and knuckle?
        i know its a piece of crap... but im still faster...

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          #5
          So, the car will be up for sale soon?

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            #6
            Apparently all they need now is the knuckle. We shall see.

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              #7
              So long time since I have posted, but here is the newest info. They replaced the torn boot and repacked the axle like they should have in the first place. They tried to rip the guy off by saying it needed a new axle in the first place. That is what caused all the problems. An axle from a stock GTX. They are retarded yes. Now that the correct axle is back the only thing it needs is a new Hub. The shop gave he car back to owner and only charged him to replace and repack the boot. They then dropped the car off at his house. No it's not fixed its sitting on 3 tires missing a hub. Here are pictures of what it needs.



              Apparently when they used the wrong axle caused the bearing to seize. As you can see the bearing is shot. Can a new bearing be put in or does it need a new hub? Any info or help would be appreciated. Help get this classic back up and running. If you do it will be going for sale as the guy/kid finally realized it was to much main maintenance for him.

              Thank you.

              Comment


                #8
                The wrong axle causing bearing failure is likely because of incorrect retention of the bearing and/or correct preload by the axle nut. The splines look okay, as does the hub and knuckle, nothing other than the bearing races took the abuse. You likely can replace both the entire bearings and races, as well as find a new spacer as its likely destroyed. I use Timken (SET11) bearings and National seals (710323 outer 4990 inner) almost exclusively, they have always lasted longer than cheaper bearings/seals without replacing the shim spacer across 4 different GTXs. I 've had good luck with Marine type wheel bearing grease (blue/gray color) as well as Timken and Lucas performance wheel bearing greases. Marine grease tends to have better overload and adverse (salt/dirt) environmental survivability compared to normal generic wheel bearing grease.

                Make sure the rotor is perfect too, since you're taking the bearing apart
                anyway.

                edit: Cool, a RRE rear strut bar! I actually own the prototype front strut bar I got from Mike Welch himself when I bought a GTX from their parking lot. What rear strut mounts are those, Cusco?
                Last edited by djcommie; 11-24-2015, 03:59 PM.

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                  #9
                  Honestly bring that knuckle to a Napa that does bearing pressing and you'll have that back on the road same day.I also recommend Timken bearngs and seals as well.
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                    #10
                    Thanks guys. Your help is much appreciated. And those are cuscos. Nice eye. The car is amazing. The original owner put so much work into it. It was crazy.

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                      #11
                      This is usually what happens when the spacer was not used on the last entry into the knuckle. Either way whomever does the repair will need a middle of the road spacer to start from and some other sizes at hand, a preload tool or at least a spring scale to dail it in. If in fact there is a spacer in there at least he should hope that the number is still legible. Check the hub for any scoring and +1 on the rotor..replace it while you have it apart regardless if it needs it or not.

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                        #12
                        Hmmm would any shop be able to do this. I don't want to try as it's not my car anymore, but the kid has money I'm just helping out trying to find the info for him.

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                          #13
                          I would also guess that the problem came from a shop that was not familiar with these hubs and captured rotor designs. He is going ask around or learn to do it himself look most of us have.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            so this is a custom job? No shop can do this if I just tell them what it needs?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Any info would be helpful?

                              Thank you

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