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Thread: Inexpensive brake upgrades for trackday?

  1. #1
    Registered User theredrocket's Avatar
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    Inexpensive brake upgrades for trackday?

    Hey guys, I'm just looking for some advice/opinions on brake upgrades for the fwd bg chassis cars. I took the escort out road racing for the first time a few weeks ago, and I made it one and a half laps in, and the brakes were completely toast. Brake pedal was like a sponge and no bite at all in the brakes anymore. The escorts brakes are stock, except for some cross drilled rotors, which are more for looks than anything.

    I know about the miata/wilwood front and miata sport rear brake upgrades, but those will cost a couple grand to do. I am just looking for a somewhat cheap option to allow me to do 10 or 12 laps at a time type of thing. I don't need supercar braking, but the factory brakes were killing my fun. I also brought my focus ST out to the track day, and the braking difference was ridiculous.

    The setup I had in mind would be: ebc USR slotted rotors, ebc yellowstuff pads, stainless braided lines, and motul rbf600 fluid. Anyone have any experience with any of these items?

    Thanks.
    Tyler has spoken

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    E-Throttle=garbage 300zxrb26dett's Avatar
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    Technically nobody has done the Miata Wilwood front. The rear sport brakes yes but I would think a front kit would be sufficient for you.
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    ダンスは犯罪じゃない。 atomicEGT's Avatar
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    email/PM Jim Pierce, he should be able to help you out.


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    323Permin 323Permin's Avatar
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    Personally spending money on high end stock replacement rotors is not worth the money. Due to the good race pads will just eat them in short amount of time.

    You could get port field race pads with Oem rotors for the fronts, and go the route you though with the s.steel braided lines and the motul fluid. As for the rear the ebb yellow stuff would be sufficent.

    Additional brake ducting to the fronts wouldn't be a bad thing either.


    PS... Tyler how's my cousins GTR doing ?
    Last edited by 323Permin; 10-18-2015 at 01:08 PM.

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    Registered User theredrocket's Avatar
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    323 permin, when you say stock replacement rotors, are you just talking about generic brand plain rotors, and then using good pads? Also, your cousins GTR is doing fine . I really haven't done much to it at all. I put on a lower spoiler, and am part of jims group buy for the GT4 rear diff subframe. I have the adapter plate and an ST185 shifter and cables as well.
    Tyler has spoken

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    323Permin 323Permin's Avatar
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    Ya tyler .. that is what I was suggesting.

    Just have a set of oem rotors or the basic upgraded slotted ones ( not the high end expensive stuff ) and a set of Porterfield race compound pads for the front. And hawk HPS or ebc yellows on the rear.

    Use these for track days and pull the rotors and pads off when your done, as they will not be the best in stop and go traffic. Swap back the stockers after playing on the track

    Stiil swap to better fuild and s.steel braided lines for better brake pedal feel.

    PS. I have a GTR now too , in red though ... and a really clean Familia GTX ( blue one )

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    Death To Cones!!! SgtRauksauff's Avatar
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    ^^^ what he said.

    el-cheapo autozone rotors (or whatever part store is near you).
    spend the money on pads (porterfield is good, I've used Carbotech and Raybestos as well, Raybestos ST-43/42 front/rear have been the best ever, but this was on my AE86, not my '95 escort BPT'd wagon).

    I did a rear disc swap to the wagon, and found that even with the best pads that hold up to higher heat, since the rotors are so small on these cars, the thermal mass just isn't there to absorb the heat needed at trackday speeds. this ends up firstly boiling the fluid, then soaking the hub/wheelbearing and boiling out your whelbearing lube as well. A couple of times at BHF (Blackhawk Farms, which admittedly is VERY tough on brakes and tires) I came in after a few laps, and with the lack of air movement my brakes actually started on fire.

    I never got around to doing this to the wagon, but I had the same issue on my AE86 and made some ducting to cool the rotors. That made all the difference. went from maybe 15-minutes max before boiled fluid to 45-minute sessions without any fade at all. and these brakes are smaller than the escort's, and I was going the same or faster speeds. similar weights, 2495 with driver. I think the wagon is a bit heavier, though.

    I would highly recommend going with a heat range higher pad than you think you need. I think Carbotech XP-10 is a good trackday pad, with xp-8's on the rear. this is what I ran on my Escort and my Corolla, and daily drove as well. This setup was great for AutoX, and for about 5 laps of BHF, but could not hold up to further heat without ducting. I got really good at using my brakes as little as possible, which led to faster times. As an aside, brake hard and late, then stay off of them, this will minimize heat generation and maximize cooling. I never used EBC pads, I don't know if they have a comparable compound to the Carbotechs or the Raybestos. I think the Porterfield compound is good also, that's actually where I got my Raybestos from: http://porterfield-brakes.com/

    for fluid, I used ATE super blue, until they banned it because it wasn't the right color, and they couldn't depend on people to read the effing label. Maybe some motul rbf600 or the ford dot3. whatever you can find that's the highest heat available. plan on flushing your system a few times a year if you do a lot of track days.

    When I get the ST-205 drivetrain in my 4WD, I kind of want to find out how to get a 5x114.3 pattern on there, and maybe massage the wheel spaces, so I can fit decent-sized brakes under some 17" wheels, around EVO or STI-size. With the power I'll have, I'll need more rubber on the ground to stay sticky, and then the brakes will need to handle that speed.

    For the longest time, I wanted to be able to keep everything under 15" wheels, but now I think that's an unrealistic goal for the speeds I'll be achieving, especially if I want to be competitive.

    TL;DR:
    cheap rotors
    race pads
    DUCTING is a MUST.

    --sarge
    Last edited by SgtRauksauff; 10-21-2015 at 04:50 PM.

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    Rough & Dirty User worldhazard's Avatar
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    ^^ that should be stickied
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  9. #9
    Likes AWD a bit too much jay's Avatar
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    Do what it takes to put GTR hubs in the front at least, that guys you some pretty decent sized rotors. Calipers are bigger than stock protege items, and with good pads will do the job. The Porterfield R4E pads in my rallycar have been there through 4 rallies and don't need replacing yet. I ran the R4S compound on the street car and did autox and such with it and never faded the brakes but would do the race or enduro compound for full on track day. If you can't find the gtr stuff, do what sgtraucksauff said.
    Oh and use ATE super blue brake fluid. That stuff is really, really hard to boil.
    '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
    '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
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