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    #76
    Okay, so let's jump back to where we left off.

    The throttle cable between the pedal and the cruise control module. I executed the idea I described above in a slightly different fashion. Apparently, getting a hold of coupling nuts in the specified thread and pitch is harder than I thought. So I used a Nylon spacer. Rigid but easy enough to shape. If I ever have to do this again, I'd use a metal spacer just so it looks cleaner. The pictures you'll see below are perfectly functional, just not terribly pretty.

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    This next bit was just undesirable all around but a necessary evil: Replacing the timing covers that had been oil saturated and ground by the pulleys on the engine.

    $328 later...

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    Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

    Comment


      #77
      Continuing, I'm just going through my GDrive album and covering the topics in the order I see them since that would be chronological.

      With the timing covers on, I could install the cam position sensor and do engine phasing for MegaSquirt. Going to fully sequential fuel and spark means I needed crank and cam signals. The factory cam signal was no good for me, however, as it was a half-moon "poll level" trigger. My goal was to use the factory crank wheel (a variable reluctor with six waveform triggers) and cam position sensor with a modified trigger wheel. This would effectively be a "dual wheel with no missing teeth". Allowing for six events and a single cam event (occurring once every 720*) to signify the next crank event would be TDC#1 compression.

      Unfortunately, at this point, I had already installed the valve covers, manifolds, charger, etc. So finding TDC#1 compression was not as easy as looking at the cams. I use a leakdown adapter and regulated shop air to determine the stroke and the timing marks to find TDC.

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      I won't go into specific detail about how I approached the cam wheel modification because the information is readily available in the MS3x Hardware manual LINK under section 6.9.11.

      However, I did not use the factory KJ cam wheel for the job, as I knew the Miata CAS (Hall effect, NOT optical) had the same sized disc for the crank trigger. I removed three of the wings and trimmed the fourth to create the correct pulse. Note WHICH "wing" I chose to keep as that plays a critical role.

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      The next part is where having a crank tape would have been handy, determining the "Tooth#1 Angle". In order to have everything work, the angle at which the crank position sensor reads the tooth #1 (as determined in the manual, section 6.9.11) needs to be measured. Alas, the wheel doesn't have degrees on it. I did some simple math to let distance (circumference) represent degrees of the circle. Spoiler alert: the KJ-ZEM CKP reads at roughly 101* BTDC, +/- 0.5*
      Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

      Comment


        #78
        Okay, so the next part may not apply to any future swaps but it is my personal preference given the amount of difficulty this swap would be to remove otherwise: Quick DisConnect (QDC) Wiring.

        I had already wired the Pro5 engine bay with QDCs a while ago. So now it was time to complete the wiring by making the engine side harness. This did NOT include the alternator, starter and solenoid spade, RPS, or VSS. These objects remained factory with new loom and Super88 or in the case of the alternator, a separate QDC harness was made.

        I'll post up some conversion charts later on so don't fret about details of what goes where for right now.

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        The alternator for the KJ is internally regulated, as I worked out a while ago, so I didn't need to have any connection with the MehaSquirt for voltage regulation. I did, however, want to have it connected to the charge indicator on the cluster (as that proved VERY useful this morning, since it warned me the alternator I got with the car was failing). So a total of two connections were required: Charge out and the signal for the charge lamp. This was a perfect chance to try out the high capacity (175A) +/- disconnects I had purchased for various battery hot-swap projects.

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        Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

        Comment


          #79
          Damn. Can't believe I left you all in the dark this long. Well, I'm here to shed some light!

          I'll pick up where I left it - preparing the chassis.

          As previously mentioned in the thread, I had the common rust patch in the passenger fender well that I wanted to deal with. I scoured the local junkyards and couldn't find any that weren't also rusted. A phone call (text message actually) to my local Mazda parts guy and I had a new apron on the way...only $240, right?

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          Don't forget your thirty dollar tube of Seam Sealer!
          (The Window Weld was to "poly fill" my torque mounts for the KJ's monstrous 210+ lb/ft)

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          The rest is fairly straight forward. Drill spotwelds, remove panel(s), fit new panel and bodywork to locate for proper gaps, tack, remove fender, finish spot welds, seam sealer, prime, paint, clear. :whew:

          easy, huh?

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          Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

          Comment


            #80
            With the bodywork sorted, I could get going on making the engine mount. Now, I'll be honest, I'm not a particularly good welder...That said, not all unsightly welds are inefficient. There was always sufficient penetration, and when in doubt - drown it in material. Fwiw...it's still holding.

            The concept was simple, use an OE style Milly S passenger mount with an adapter plate welded, allowing me to use the original captive nuts in the frame rail. Some improvisation was required. The result:

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            Some how, I didn't get a picture of it painted and installed; imagine it in flat black and fitting fine, the first time.

            Having all four mounts worked out at this point, I lowered the engine in for what I thought would be the last time for at least a couple months...

            nope.

            An immediate issue became apparent: the thud of the power steering pulley against the subframe. I made a few quick observations and hoisted the engine back out to make adjustments.

            Those adjustments were made with one of my favorite precision instruments, a BFH. Sparing no strength, I began modifying the subframe for clearance. Crude? Sure.

            Well at least I didn't stop there. Having reduced the once-rectangular subframe riser to a triangle, I figured I'd add some support. 3/16x2 steel to the rescue! I fashioned a gusset plate and welded it in place, painting and clearing afterwards to ensure no rusting occured.

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            It definitely improved the static clearance.

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            Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

            Comment


              #81
              "There can't possibly be much left to do", you're thinking - and you're right!

              The last few issues to cover were Power Steering and cooling.

              Cooling. Having talked to a couple friends who have running KL swapped BJ chassis cars, they had assured me the factory radiator worked. That's good, because that's what I had. Factory fans? Not so much. I had addressed the lack of space previously and had prepared accordingly. A pair of 12" low pro, 1650 CFM fans came in a box, along with other cooling goodies, from SiliconeIntakes.com. They use through-the-fin style mounting which seemed strong enough for the minimal weight they were purported to hold. Also in this box, not pictured were 1.125*1.625 and 1.625*1.375 straight silicone adapters, and 3' of flexible 1.625" stainless steel "hose". Ordered from Amazon, one Dayco 72011 hose - the perfect KL/KJ swap passenger side hose. I'm not joking, it's literally perfect.

              The flexible stainless and adapters bridged the gap from the "lower" outlet on the driver's side to the upper outlet on the OE radiator. It's a convoluted path requiring many 90* bends and I have future plans to eliminate that with a custom mixing manifold and a remote thermostat housing.

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              Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

              Comment


                #82
                Power steering was just a little bit out of my realm and I needed a professional solution. Luckily, there's a hydraulic shop in my city who can perform custom work. The order was simple: The hardline lead between the protege steering rack and the banjo end of the Milly high pressure line needed to somehow get joined. I talked with the company and we agreed that welding a fixed male double flare to both pieces was the solution. That way, I could use any length of flexible line with a free female flare nut to join them. Turned out great and only cost me $80 for everything. No installed pictured, unfortunately. hard to see back there with the engine in.

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                Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                Comment


                  #83
                  holy updates batman. good to see!! Im quite fond on the PS line. I wish I knew of a local place around here that could fabricate some new AC lines for me....
                  ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                  1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                  I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                  he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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