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    #46
    if you want it to be quiet.... add in good quality resonators and a good muffler. /story
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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      #47
      Look at the bright side, this an opportunity for comparisons to be made lol. Before and after with factory header/collector and aftermarket. I have a mig and have access to a dyno so there's no real money lost by doing it both ways, except the cost of the collector pipe.

      But, yes, I will be using a quality exhaust, or so I understand it to be. I'll go through various stages of this, the first being factory headers, collector, and p5 exhaust. I'll upgrade the exhaust later and then possibly/probably the headers.
      Last edited by xYoko; 03-11-2016, 07:28 PM.
      Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

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        #48
        Working on finishing up all wiring in the engine bay today. While working on the wiring, I had somewhat of an epiphany. Not sure why I'm going through so much effort on the passenger side mount mount. If I remember my mockup correctly, I should be able to just use a factory KJ mount on a riser, drilled to bolt to the protege5 frame rail with an offset for the KJ mount holes. I'll look closer at this tomorrow when I put the engine back in for clearance testing with the radiator.
        Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

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          #49
          Today has been productive, or at least I'd like to think.

          Went back to the junkyard and picked up the KLDE intermediate shaft out of the the 98-02 626 (I don't know exactly what year it was in that range). The KJ bracket, being an automatic, has a slightly different offset from the block's mounting surface due to the offset of the ATX's output centerline. Long story made short, the KJ bracket doesn't work with a G25. Chris and Darren had a KLZE in the the protege5 before it was KJ swapped. Chris never got a chance to try the KJ bracket out because he accidentally left the axle in the car when it was removed for scrap. He did, however, have a JDM 2 bolt bracket to which he says only one bolt aligned. While 1 bolt has probably 450 pounds of sheer and probably even greater of tensile strength, I wanted something a bit more reliable.

          I had a buddy measure the centerline from the mounting deck of his USDM 3 bolt KL bracket, I was pretty damn sure it was going to work but I wanted to compare some numbers before I rushed out to the yard to fetch the one I had already pulled and pay $26 for potentially a dud. Well, I am very pleased to announce that 2 out of 3 holes line up with 2 out of 2 holes available on the KJ block. Oddly, only one of them was a boss originally used by the KJ bracket. So, for posterity, the USDM 3 bolt KL bracket works fine. Even the shaft. I'll transfer my new bearing and seals to this bracket next time I get a chance.

          The rest of my progress today has been less "concrete" (again). Since the QDCs have been wired and loomed on the car already, I figured I'd verify all of my wiring again to make sure there weren't any mistakes or mislabels. That takes time.

          But let's talk about some of the control functions and how they're going to work with Megasquirt.

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          Above you can see what a mess the KJ-ZEM really is in the vacuum department. The complexity PLAGUES owners and dealerships alike. Nobody likes working on them.

          It's a fairly simple system when you really get to thinking about it, though. Not all of the vacuum operates on the same "channels". It's about to get even more simple, though. EGR is going away. Charcoal is going away. Bypass air is also getting eliminated as it doesn't serve a purpose in my simplified vacuum scheme.

          In the spirit of doing something unconventional, I'm going to be replacing both the ABV vent and vacuum solenoids with a simple three way like the CAC where ports A and B flow only when B+ is applied. this allows me to conduct testing with ON/OFF operation of the ABV and potentially step up to PWM for controlling boost levels. I can't seem to find anyone else who has used a Mitsubishi VSV with PWM. I'm thinking right around 40hz? Hopefully the plastic can withstand that compounded with 15psi.

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          If necessary, I'll end up investing in an EBC from DIYAutotune but I'd like to do some trial and error with an OE valve first.

          CAC will stay pretty much the same. The real work here is setting up the parameters for the solenoid's operation. I already have these set up in Tunerstudio. That's for another post, though. I'll cover each solenoid and how to set up the programmable outputs.

          The atomospheric ports on the supercharger will remain the same.

          The reference ports at the intake manifold will also remain the same, tying in with the PRC. However, instead of going out to the MAP control solenoid and subsequently the MAP sensor, the line will be connecting with the MAP sensor built into the MS3x - A critical part of the operation.

          I suppose I'll make a diagram for it, eventually. I'm not very good with artsy things like actual diagrams/drawings, though. Something's better than nothing, right?
          Last edited by xYoko; 03-14-2016, 09:55 PM.
          Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

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            #50
            That **** looks worse than an FD vac diagram.

            What's the voltage range for the factory MAP sensor on this?
            Also am I looking at this right that the map sensor gets boost/vac cut off from it? Why is that a thing?
            Or is the MAP sensor just used for Emission rubbish like all the other economical 90s mazdas?


            And any solenoid you put on that is oem or equivalent in build quality should be fine, the MISTU built ones on the eclipse can take 20psi before being an issue, I think the waste-gate solenoids on the turbo BG's are mitsu as well now that I think about it.
            Beater=/= Sleeper

            Originally posted by kozzman555
            kitty, you are a hilarious woman
            Originally posted by HopelessCow
            there is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
            Using Linux for anything serious besides server or software dev is like using a tin can and a string for telecommunications.

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              #51
              The MAP sensor is only a 1 bar, and can not read vacuum, so the MAP sensor solenoid "closes" the path when the the ABV vacuum solenoid is closed. The megasquirt can read vac and up to 3 bar pressure so that's gonna be a much easier route - no shutoff solenoid. I can't say for sure what the volt range is on the OE MAP, though.

              Good to hear that the VSV was also used in a WGS application on the turbo BG. I'm not too worried about it breaking under boost as much as I'm worried about it breaking under boost while cylcing the plunger 40 times a second lol.

              In theory, the car will work just fine with an ON/OFF ABV. Any time TPS ADC count is above [xxxx] 0.1% with hysteresis around 0.5% to keep it from shuttering on liftoff.

              But that means the car, at cruise will be producing 14-15 pounds of boost and the trim tables with reflect it, throwing my efficient daily idea out the window.

              I spent a good deal of time speculating how the factory boost control works give the information on which ports flow when given 12v and making a safe assumption that Mazda wasn't doing PWM. ABV vacuum solenoid is a simple two port open or closed. When open, it allows vacuum from the pump to reach the ABV vent. ABV vent is a bit more complicated. Ports A and B (the two side by side - blue to actuator and violet from ABV vacuum) flow even when the solenoid isn't energized. Ports A, B, and C all flow when B+ is applied. Could it be that the green line "limits" vacuum since it's before the throttle plate? It's also in a T with another line on the ABV which is another actuator line. I put vacuum on it, and it PULLS the ABV closed. That, to me, says that if vent is open, both sides of the ABV are getting vacuum. One stronger than the other (probably the opening vacuum side) and the vacuum is weakened by the T with the box pre-throttle plate. Just speculation but that's the only way I can see it working with on/off solenoid operation.

              I can program a PWM output on the same line the solenoid will already be using so making the change is all software. If the valve breaks, oh well. I'll just get the DIYAutoTune EBC valve and exchange it
              Last edited by xYoko; 03-15-2016, 08:25 AM.
              Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

              Comment


                #52
                Well this is kind of cool I like it, not often you hear someone wanting the miller engine let alone talk about them. I will sub, Keep up the good work it looks good.
                Not What you build, But HOW.

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                  #53
                  Originally posted by Pashka0788 View Post
                  Well this is kind of cool I like it, not often you hear someone wanting the miller engine let alone talk about them. I will sub, Keep up the good work it looks good.
                  They're just incredibly problematic and expensive to make work. Daunting, no doubt, but I love a challenge.
                  Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Hmm, Kitty.

                    Wouldn't these be the same ones?

                    Originally posted by http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=131&t=42827
                    Top
                    Re: boost control questions...
                    Postby SymTech Laboratories » Mon Nov 07, 2011 5:28 am

                    It's hard to say about the SR20DET solenoid. A lot of stock boost control solenoids (BCS) don't respond well to PWM or higher pressure. The stock 4G63/DSM BCS, for instance, has a plastic body that fractures with PWM and pressure >12psi. You're probably in uncharted territory, so the best advice is... "try it." It could work. Try a few different frequencies and record your results.
                    After a bit more research, it seems like most MFGs are using 20-22 hz for WGS. I'll give it a whirl when I get it going. Worst thing that happens is a broken VSV and I end up buying the DIYAutoTune EBC anyways.
                    Last edited by xYoko; 03-18-2016, 10:36 PM.
                    Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                    Comment


                      #55
                      I was the one who originally put the KJ into Durwood's P5.... At the time I owned the car and wanted to try something unique..... I got the car to fire but had some running issues with the ECU going into limp mode..... I traded the P5 back to Durwood where he found that I missed the MAP sensor causing the limp mode..... Durwood drove the P5 for a few months before the supercharger blew like they always do

                      1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
                      1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
                      2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

                      1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

                      If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

                      Comment


                        #56
                        KJ-ZEM Protege5

                        Here's the link to my old build thread for some inspiration lol


                        1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
                        1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
                        2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

                        1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

                        If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Originally posted by Damkid View Post
                          I was the one who originally put the KJ into Durwood's P5.... At the time I owned the car and wanted to try something unique..... I got the car to fire but had some running issues with the ECU going into limp mode..... I traded the P5 back to Durwood where he found that I missed the MAP sensor causing the limp mode..... Durwood drove the P5 for a few months before the supercharger blew like they always do
                          I know haha - we exchanged a few Emails last year. How's your RWD/AWD Festy coming along?
                          Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                          Comment


                            #58
                            Dug up a bit more information on the ABV.

                            I am definitely doing PWM as that's how it originally operated, or so it seems by the FSM pages. "duty" signals. Still doesn't explain the second vac port on the ABV.

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                            Still gonna try a Mitsubishi VSV first.
                            Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                            Comment


                              #59
                              You know... If I need a diagram the I am just going to ask you. Seems like you got a diagram of everything....
                              Not What you build, But HOW.

                              Comment


                                #60
                                Originally posted by xYoko View Post
                                I know haha - we exchanged a few Emails last year. How's your RWD/AWD Festy coming along?
                                Back in August?

                                I actually sold the festiva and bought a BF 323 wagon.... Needed a change of scenery but the same plans still apply lol.... I started a build thread for the wagon on here

                                1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
                                1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
                                2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

                                1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

                                If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

                                Comment

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