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    #61
    Originally posted by Pashka0788 View Post
    You know... If I need a diagram the I am just going to ask you. Seems like you got a diagram of everything....
    Having Mitchells access helps a lot lol. Complete FSM and wiring diagrams are a must to tackle something like this.

    Originally posted by Damkid View Post
    Back in August?

    I actually sold the festiva and bought a BF 323 wagon.... Needed a change of scenery but the same plans still apply lol.... I started a build thread for the wagon on here
    Yep. I started considering the swap in May of '15. I did months of research and finally decided to try to reach you on YT as I didn't know if you were still active here. Just need Darren and we'll have the whole gang lol

    I'll have to sub to that! My offer from last year stands, if you need Miata parts or insight, ask away.

    I actually just got mine back from the body shop tonight

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    Already built a 1.9 forged BP with the worx (custom cams, oversized valves, port and polish, bowl blend, etc). GT2871r inbound. That's another thread though, I'll keep this one focused on the P5.
    Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

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      #62
      Ordered all of the silicone vacuum lines and couplers, eGay headers and Y pipe, timing stuff, seals, belts, clutch, etc. Mucho parts rolling in. Also got a new passenger side milly mount to experiment with.

      Still need to source timing covers in decent shape. Really not trying to spend $315 on timing covers at Mazda. If anyone has an S at their local junkyard, I'd pay for covers in good shape.
      Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

      Comment


        #63
        If memory serves me right for the wiring the KJ harness needs power for the coils (which I think had 2 or 3 wire for all 6 coils) then power for the sensors, injectors, then a constant for the ECU

        1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
        1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
        2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

        1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

        If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

        Comment


          #64
          Originally posted by Damkid View Post
          If memory serves me right for the wiring the KJ harness needs power for the coils (which I think had 2 or 3 wire for all 6 coils) then power for the sensors, injectors, then a constant for the ECU
          Only need switched 12v for my application - MS3x

          Pulling power from ENG fuse for coils (factory style from P5)
          Pulling power after the COR (fuel inj relay) for injectors. (again, factory style on the P5)

          I've already trimmed and rewired the whole bay. 3 large clips containing all of the data and power for the KJ, one for the CKP (I have it shielded separately since it's a variable reluctance sensor), one for VSS, one for RPS, Starter and solenoid, and lastly the alternator connections. Those will merely be extended and not be on a quick disconnect like the engine and all its peripherals.

          I would have gone after making the factory ECU work but I have so much MS experience, I'd really rather just go tried and true. It'll give me much better control over the engine and help me hone in my target which is a quick daily and can be sane for long trips (efficient) and insane for when the trips take me to roads I want to enjoy (like US129 in 5 weeks...Teaser below from my last trip there in the P5).

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          Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

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            #65
            Progress is still being made, forgot to post an update.

            Parts arrived on Friday last week. Gates water pump, Gates t stat (since the factory one had been gutted...), Gates timing belt and idlers (since the factory ones were original at 131k miles o.o), Dayco hydraulic tensioner (didn't bother to test the OE rather assumed it was no longer in spec), Gates accessory belts, OE Exedy Mx6 2.5 clutch, and a engine gasket set. Has new front main installed, new cam seals, new rear main, new oil filter adapter, no o rings, new new new, etc. Didn't pull the heads and use the headgaskets. Don't trust anything other than OEM headgaskets. The engine will get OEM seals when I rebuild it later this year - Need to tune it first!

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            All of the new silicone vacuum arrived today. Wanted to test their product out before I made another $50 investment on their cooling hoses too. So far, I'm pretty damn pleased. Extra thick wall on the 4mm so it doesn't collapse but flexible enough that I can loop it around two of my fingers without kinks - not bad. They sell aluminum check valves, too! Unfortunately not in the 4mm I need for the vac, but at least in the 10mm I needed for the brake booster line.

            Siliconeintakes.com

            I guess I'll see how they fit when I get to installing lines tomorrow evening.

            Just waiting on the eGay exhaust manifolds now. If they fit without modification, it's go time.

            Also still need to find timing covers and possibly an auto tensioner since it seems like one of mine is probs on its way out. I think I found a source where I won't need to pull them in a yard myself. Unfortunately, they'll probably still be about $110 shipped :\

            Per protocol, bad news goes last. I installed the flywheel and clutch on Saturday so I could finalize the transmission. Bolts, torque, brackets. You know. Well, the cv knuckle was still left in the trans from when I pulled it at the yard. No biggie there. I turned it to make sure the input shaft wasn't bound and it was fine but I noticed the shaft was wobbly...and "clunky". A quick probe with my index finger on the other side reveals why this 5 speed 626 with no body damage was in the junkyard to begin with. Spider gears shattered and took the diff bearings with it. I knew it was a 50/50 when I pulled the damn thing. The KL or the trans had to be destroyed. The blue painted stock calipers were the indicator of either possibility.

            This isn't a huge problem as the the original reason I bought the junkyard G25 was to use with the transmission I bought from [user=300zxrb26dett]. Has the worx - Ferdi plate, 0.717 5th, and a MFactory helical. Perfect for a car with gobs of low end torque. Why did I need another then, you ask? The trans is a G case with a MZR bellhousing. Interchangeable to the KL bellhousing but work, nonetheless. I was just going to use the junkyard trans to spare rebuilding a G25 on a truncated timeline. Oh well.
            Last edited by xYoko; 03-28-2016, 11:42 PM.
            Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

            Comment


              #66
              PROTIP Depending on where you live it's actually cheaper to buy things from their ebay store http://stores.ebay.com/Siliconeintakes

              I don't remember what I needed from them in hawaii, probably a T-Coupler, but they wanted double the item value in shipping.


              If you're cracking the crapped trans any interest in selling that blow diff for beer money+shipping?
              Beater=/= Sleeper

              Originally posted by kozzman555
              kitty, you are a hilarious woman
              Originally posted by HopelessCow
              there is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
              Using Linux for anything serious besides server or software dev is like using a tin can and a string for telecommunications.

              Comment


                #67
                Originally posted by Kitty View Post
                PROTIP Depending on where you live it's actually cheaper to buy things from their ebay store http://stores.ebay.com/Siliconeintakes

                I don't remember what I needed from them in hawaii, probably a T-Coupler, but they wanted double the item value in shipping.


                If you're cracking the crapped trans any interest in selling that blow diff for beer money+shipping?

                Appreciate the heads up

                And sure, it may not actually be as bad as I think, either. Didn't bother looked just felt like any other Miata diff where the spiders gave it up. I know the bearings are ****, though.
                Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                Comment


                  #68
                  Progress still goes strong.

                  Today was a busy day with the KJ's third fitment run in the P5 bay. This trial was to mock up the passenger engine mount with the new Milly S mount and get the radiator fitted and tested for clearance and cooling hoses.

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                  Here's a rough location for the cruise control. NOTE that I've separated the vacuum pump from the actuator. The pump will probably end up near the other side of the engine bay. I have to test it with a ~5 feet of vacuum though to see if it causes any excessive delay in actuation, or malfunction as the pump only triggers momentarily.

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                  More clearance pictures:

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                  Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                  Comment


                    #69
                    As an update:

                    I'm not dead.

                    I have to turn my attention to some of my other cars (Miatas) so I'd have something to drive for my upcoming contract. I currently have the G box in the garage ready to be measured for shims. Progress will resume in 3 weeks.
                    Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                    Comment


                      #70
                      Well, I returned last week and have been catching up with my grass which was unattended for nearly a month...only three feet.

                      Finished shimming and rebuilding the G25; it's purdy. It's been bolted to the KJ with the starter and all. Next up on the task list is tack welding the first mockup of the passenger side mount adapter plate. If it checks out, I'll seam the welds and add a side brace that mounts back to the fender well, just like the FS mount.

                      Pictures tonight, most likely. I'm on mobile right now.
                      Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                      Comment


                        #71
                        Time for a super lengthy update. Due to my inability to upload pictures in the order they happened, chronologically, I may be breaking it down into several posts.

                        So my work/staycation thing was pretty cool; Tore up the dragon at least three times, In the Miata mind you. Anyways as above, I'm back and working hard on getting this project running and driving by the middle or third week of June.

                        First up: Transmission. So I told the story a few posts back about discovering the transmission was junked (or the differential anways). It was a safe bet that most of the synchs were worn also, which...they were. So I decided to go ahead and swap the bellhousing. Well, it's never quite that easy for me. One does not simply swap the bellhousing without tanking the casings. One does not simply tank the casings without painting afterwards. So on and so forth. The donor internals were used from the MZR tranmission (a Mazda 3, not sure which year). Primary shaft, secondary, selector arm, shifter arm and guide + gate (since the later designs had a better tip on the gate guide). MFactory 28 spline Helical (base, not race model). The case from the transmission I bought already had a Ferdi reinforcement plate machined and installed. Pretty much the perfect trans for a torquey but not high power engine.

                        There is a GUIDE out there that, while I think is pretty useful for folks who are new to transaxles (or transmissions in general), it leaves out an incredibly important topic: Shims. In a Utopian car build, you don't need to worry about bearing preload and lash. Unfortunately, this isn't one of those builds. Changing the bellhousing meant moving the shaft and different races. Moving those races meant those measurements could be altered which is a chance you'd rather not take on a $1,500 transmission.

                        So, I'm not going to spoon-feed a transmission rebuild here as that could easily be a page of information. Instead, I'll share some of the documentation I used for reference on specification and procedure.

                        Transmission_Rebuild.pdf - This is an excerpt from the later protege Manuals and is bit more "dense" but also much more thorough.

                        protemanual_transmission_shim_excerpt (1).pdf - This excerpt is from a much earlier service manual where the bearings had diaphragm springs under the race to dynamically sort out preload. If you do not have an early G box, you need to be careful on how much information you take from this one. The procedure for measurement is the same, but you won't be adding the spring to your shimming measurement.

                        Pictures of the process (or what I could remember to shoot):

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                        Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                        Comment


                          #72
                          Moving on.

                          Didn't snap any pictures of the trans mounted with starter before going in again but I think y'all got the picture (no pun intended).

                          In case I didn't mention it anywhere else, the starter (KL 5 speed) needs to also have the "third" ear shaved to match the bellhousing.

                          Today's progress was the engine's fourth go in the engine bay. Acting on the measurements and information I had procured from its third adventure.

                          I had made an adapter plate for the passenger side engine mount but didn't have a chance to bolt it and test its functionality and impact on the engine's "level". Turns out that 3/16" over 3 is pretty negligible. The adapter plate was my solution to my previous solution which was to build an entirely new engine mount. This option allows me to replace engine mounts with OEM or aftermarket units made for the Millenia S and just make a new adapter plate instead of an entirely new engine mount. Some small modification needed to be made to the engine mount, itself, but that is probably more because it was a cheap(er) aftermarket mfg. It was such that it wouldn't have worked, even in the Millenia; Nothing a grinding wheel can't fix.

                          It was drilled for the final bolts today and tested with %100 fitment, no second mockup required. i'll tack it, check it again, then seam around the entire base of the mount to the adapter plate which bolts in the two factory locations on the Pro5 frame rail. Then I'll weld a brace back to the fender well just like the factory mount. Lastly, I'll need to weld a brace on the side between the two "feet" of the mount to help control contortion since I've cut out the original one that was directly between them to accommodate the bolt for the adapter plate.













                          It's definitely a tight fit in there.

                          That brings us to the meat and potatoes - The engine itself. With the mount finalized, I was able bolt on or at least place many of the extra peripherals this engine has (like the air manifold before the throttle body). Cruise and the radiator were also on today's list of to-dos.

                          Here are some more pictures of the engine in the bay, off the hoist. In these pictures, there is no passenger engine mount. Rather, a couple blocks of wood and a socket to maintain the engine's location so I could test hood clearance.











                          About that hood clearance...I ended having to remove (read: grind) the plastic shroud and shields off the front intercooler. It's the only culprit in clearance. Between the radiator and the hood, not sure which was worse. Because the car is already going in for body work, I used my precision instrument (hammer) and a rag to collapse the crumple zone webbing where the offending part was located. Yes, it did leave some small protrusions on the high side of the hood.

                          With that worked out, I was ready to get the cruise control fitted. My initial assumption that the Millenia S cruise would work was close - Quite, actually. Only a small amount of crude modification was necessary and a simple bracket. I was able to bend the bracket around and mount it near the Milly's factory location using the P5's strut tower brace bracket. Then I removed the wiper cowl and drilled a hole through the sheet metal to use as a mounting point. Last was a bracket fashioned out of some extra 3/16" steel and formed to clear the battery.




















                          That, unfortunately did not conclude the issues with the cruise. The issue, fortunately, isn't with the cable to engine but with the cable to the pedal. This cruise module is unlike most as the cable(s) work in series, not parallel. The pedal pulls the cable but about 3/4" of slack is left between the "ball" on the cable end at the pedal and the "seat" on the pedal - Or this same slack is left in the module when the pedal is actuated. This, of course, means %100 pedal is only opening the throttle plate %50-60.

                          Admittedly, I had thought about using a cord clamp to simply create a new "ball" but that's extremely ghetto and I generally don't roll that way.

                          The solution I'm entertaining right now will extend the adjustability of the cable at the module end as, even at the end of it's current adjustability, there is still 3/4" of slack.

                          Basically, getting a turnbuckle/coupling nut using the same thread and pitch as the cable end (M8*1.5 I believe). Tap the outer bore for two more jamb nuts, and cut a longitudinal relief so the cable can slip through. Once it's threaded to the cable end, I can jamb it using the existing nuts and use the new jambs on the coupler to adjust the cable.

                          On to the radiator. I had established previously that I would be using the P5 radiator to keep clearance with the A/C dryer. Seems easy enough except that the P5 uses 1.125 (1-1/8") outlets and the KJ uses 1.375 (1-3/8") outlets. To add to the complexity, the hose (flexible stainless) I want to use is 1.625 (1-5/8"). A pile of adapters and elbows, pretty much. I'll be using corresponding outlets, however. Upper P5 radiator outlet will go to the upper KL water outlet, same for lower. Even though, with the P5 radiator, corresponding outlets are further away. More details will come on that front when I shop and order everything. I did have to do some very minor modification to the radiator which was really just cutting off the mounting tabs for the passenger side fan. I'll be using "through-fin mounted" low pro fans so it was no matter to me. This was in addition to removing the shroud and mounts from the front intercooler to improve static and dynamic clearance.

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                          Aaaaaaand here's a picture I can't categorize.

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                          So that's it for right now. Engine side harness and cruise control resolution are likely to be in the next post.
                          Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                          Comment


                            #73
                            Been away from the forum for a while. Stupid FB... Anyway, props for taking this on. When I had mine (Chris did >99% of the swap) it was a fantastic daily driver. I loved the way the engine moved the car around. I know quite a bit about the KJ now, and I'll try and help with any advice I can give.

                            Sadly, I think this is the only video in existance of a running KJ swap. I look forward to seeing some better ones from you.


                            edit: That clutch won't hold! That's the same as I had, (I think Chris used the brand new Exedy off of the KLZE that I sold him) and it slipped.
                            Last edited by DuRWooD; 06-08-2016, 07:33 PM.
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                            1992 Familia GT-X
                            1988 323 GTX
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                              #74
                              Originally posted by DuRWooD View Post
                              Been away from the forum for a while. Stupid FB... Anyway, props for taking this on. When I had mine (Chris did >99% of the swap) it was a fantastic daily driver. I loved the way the engine moved the car around. I know quite a bit about the KJ now, and I'll try and help with any advice I can give.

                              Sadly, I think this is the only video in existance of a running KJ swap. I look forward to seeing some better ones from you.


                              edit: That clutch won't hold! That's the same as I had, (I think Chris used the brand new Exedy off of the KLZE that I sold him) and it slipped.
                              Gang's all here! Welcome to the party.

                              I'm going to break it in gentle and see where that lands me. My original plan was a Spec 11lb fly and Southbend S2 or S3 if necessary but I'd really like to avoid a puck. They're generally quite noisy and shudder on longer engagements - Not daily driver material. It just wasn't in the budget at the time. I want to test out the stock flywheel and maybe try a K8 flywheel to see how the engine responds.

                              Expect an update at some point today - A lot has been done!
                              Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

                              Comment


                                #75
                                Holy s***.

                                Okay, so I apologize for leaving everyone in the dark here.

                                The progress didn't cease from my last posting. In fact, it did quite the opposite - I've been driving the pro for 3 days now.

                                I'll try to get everything uploaded in chronological order tonight.
                                Slowtegay - 03 Sunlight Silver MP5 - KJ Swap in the works.

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