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    Post Head Gasket Replacement Issues

    Hello,
    I want to start off by thanking you for reading this thread and I’m hoping I can get some help from the community in resolving the issues I’m having. Again thanks in advance for your time.

    Okay so a little history first, I originally bought my protegé back in 2013 and it ran like a dream. I had to replace spark plugs and coils once. I then went on my first deployment (I’m in the USMC) and the car sat for 6 months (I believe the start of my problems). I came back and replaced the battery and there she was running just as I left her. I drove daily to and from work as well as on the weekends for about 7 months without issue. Then it started intermittently over heating. I found out my the thermostat was getting stuck closed from rust in the cooling system(from sitting while I was on deployment). I drove to napa and bought a replacement, and on the way home she overheated and died. She sat for about a year after that due to work schedules and another deployment.

    I finally found the time on the weekends and the resources to finally get her running again. I started disassembling what needed to be and cataloged everything down to the screw and washer and where everything went. I resurfaced the head, replaced the valve stem seals, and lapped the valves. I then re-assembled everything replacing every gasket and seal, new drive belts including timing belt also the tensioner and balancer, referencing the workshop manual through the entire process.

    Which brings me to the reason for this thread. The engine started but won’t idle. If I let off the gas the engine dies. I need help troubleshooting what the problem is. If someone could point me in the right direction or give me guidance as to what the issue could be and how to resolve it, it would be greatly appreciated.

    I apologize for the length of this thread but I feel like the more information I give, the better someone could understand the issue, the easier it would be to receive help. Again thank you for your time, it is greatly appreciated.

    #2
    First off thank you for your service!

    This is a general list of problems I've had while resurrecting cars that have sat for long periods of time. Basically you look at the basics fuel-air-spark:
    Fuel filters and injectors can get clogged or stuck - we only have an in tank filter and that's less likely to clog- if you can get the fuel injectors tested/cleaned cheap it's probably worth it, otherwise buy the fuel injector cleaner and see if it helps.
    Intake manifold leak(s) - these can be hard to track down. Check your vacuum connections and intake piping for cracked hoses or loose connections. I've had gaskets slip on me and create leaks when working in tight inconvenient places.
    Spark - Pull the spark plugs and "read" them. Check that you're getting spark.

    Hope this helps!

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      #3
      Thanks for the advice, I'm quite sure the fuel and spark aren't the problem. I have adequate fuel pressure and the injectors are clean. The spark plugs are new so I'm going to start checking for vacuum leaks in the intake. First the actual intake manifold gasket.

      Comment


        #4
        Nice intro.

        I'm horrible at diagnosing problems. I usually just throw parts at it until it's fixed. If I were going to use that strategy, I'd start with the fuel filter, then fuel pump. Just me.

        Good luck.
        1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
        1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
        2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
        1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

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          #5
          Ever figure out the problem? I have a '00 Protege es and I just did a head gasket, has power, runs and drives GREAT but it won't idle at all... earlier it had a rough idle around 800, normal ish, but once I shut it off then tried later, it started then died right away unless I gave it throttle.... it seems to "want" to idle more when it's cold? I've tried replacing the IAC TPS and throttle body, same results... when spraying carb cleaner around while somebody is running it, the rpms get weird when I spray near injector #4... but would 1 leaky injector really cause this?

          Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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            #6
            Why did you change the head gasket?
            1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
            1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
            2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
            1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 1st Gen View Post
              Why did you change the head gasket?
              It was burning coolant

              Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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                #8
                Did you check to see if the head was warped?
                I guess it would still be burning coolant if it was. huh.
                1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
                1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
                2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
                1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

                Comment


                  #9
                  No. But even if it was, wouldn't it still burn coolant? Or over heat?

                  Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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                    #10
                    [QUOTE=jakewardellktm;820713when spraying carb cleaner around while somebody is running it, the rpms get weird when I spray near injector #4... but would 1 leaky injector really cause this?[/QUOTE]

                    You've found an intake leak. Time to fix it. I've had O-Rings tear when being re-seated and cause what you describe. It's best to put a little oil or vaseline on them to prevent this.

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                      #11
                      I'm just guessing. Trying to give you something you may not have thought of yet.
                      1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
                      1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
                      2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
                      1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by neophile_17 View Post
                        You've found an intake leak. Time to fix it. I've had O-Rings tear when being re-seated and cause what you describe. It's best to put a little oil or vaseline on them to prevent this.
                        Ok I'll give it a try, when I unplug the maf it idles around 2k but it's acting like it's crammed LOL "bounces from 1800 to 2400"

                        If the intake manifold gasket was bad... "it's brand new" would it suck air through the oil fill spot? It's not sucking at all but that's what I've heard.

                        It's just weird because when I pulled the head off, I didn't touch the rail or injectors at all. But with 200k miles I'm sure they could be dry and wore out from heat cycles etc...

                        I'm going to get injector seals ASAP and try.

                        Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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                          #13
                          Could I put something on the seals temporary to see if that is the problem? Also, sometimes at very low rpms there's a slight "pop" in the intake?

                          Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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                            #14
                            You can use some heavy grease to seal up the leak temporarily. You also may have had the leak before but the computer relearn procedure made it more obvious.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              It's weird because it ran fine before the head gasket.... makes me feel like I'm doing something wrong even though I've done a few head gaskets...

                              Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

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