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    No spark, help needed

    Ok so this is the spinoff from my others thread.

    1988 Mazda 323 1.6l auto

    Car has finally giving up on me, pulled fuel filter to see if it was getting fuel and its pumping good, next step was spark and I have none!

    Things I've checked
    No spark at wires
    I have 12v at coil
    Output showed 120-147v on coil with meter

    Could this be the icm in the distributer?

    Is there a better way to test coil as ohm requirements for coil?

    Thanks in advance!


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    #2



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      #3
      Check all of the engine grounds, especilly the one by the O2 sensor plug..also the plug for the main relay on the front left fender for dirt and corrosion. Check the wires going to the neutral and reverse switches on the tranny. IIRC they are also on the start circuit.

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        #4
        Any other suggestions?


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          #5
          Originally posted by JMOliver View Post
          Any other suggestions?


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          Try replacing the ignition coil. If it doesn't work you can always return it. My coil resistance measured within spec, but a new one fixed my spark issues.

          Sent from my m8wl using Tapatalk
          ClubProtege

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            #6
            You would probably get a Code 1 (Ignition Pulse) if the coil was bad, no?

            The procedure is the best way, IMO, and your coil is probably ok unless it looks like a busted up rusty bit of metal. Did you do a continuity and resistance check? You only said you only checked input and output voltage.

            If it checks out good, then you probably have a bad ignitor in the dist. Or a bad cap / rotor. I'd keep looking. Follow the troubleshooting charts.

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              #7
              Especially on the 1.6 SOHC B6 the distributors just crap out. $95 on rockauto.com all day long and even cheaper on ebay. fresh dizzy and wires and plugs. Good to go.

              if the car is cranking, but not starting, the dizzy is likely the culprit. My Tracer, before I did the B6T swap did this three times. If the engine won't even crank/turn, then its the fuse/circuit panel on the driver's strut tower has melted and not making contact.

              Terry: I found your main harness from what? 5+ years ago you sent for upgrades. message me.

              ~Rob

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                #8
                I bet the problem is the ignition module. I had the same problem with 2 distributors. If you have a tachometer and the needle does not moves when the engines is cranking then the ignition module is bad.

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