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Thread: Bought another BG

  1. #46
    Death To Cones!!! SgtRauksauff's Avatar
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    only get rid of the AE86 if it's really really a huge gob of cash, and you don't like the car. Correct Wheel Drive, manual, peppy, sharp-looking, and fun to drive.. That's (mostly) why I've got three of them.

    I've finally started driving my 323 around again, and am finding all sorts of little things I need to fix. kinda sucks the bad luck you're running into with your Mazda, but once it's all in tip-top shape it'll last another 30 years...

    --sarge

  2. #47
    Registered User Cloud_Strife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FE3-323 View Post
    any signs of green on the spark plugs??? does it smoke once it's hot?
    No sign of green on the plugs (within the well), I'll have to check underneath the spark well near the threads later. Last night I went for a shakedown after replacing the pass. CV axle. After a trip to the gas station there didn't seem to be any white smoke at idle (after warm-up) or surging in revs... Still not consistent, but I'll have some daylight to check and report back.

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    Good grease monkey link:

    Quote Originally Posted by SgtRauksauff View Post
    only get rid of the AE86 if it's really really a huge gob of cash, and you don't like the car. Correct Wheel Drive, manual, peppy, sharp-looking, and fun to drive.. That's (mostly) why I've got three of them.

    I've finally started driving my 323 around again, and am finding all sorts of little things I need to fix. kinda sucks the bad luck you're running into with your Mazda, but once it's all in tip-top shape it'll last another 30 years...

    --sarge
    Hey Sarge, nice to see you again. The 86 is definitely and easily my favorite experience I've ever had with JDM cars. Unfortunately it is just too goddamn old for me. On capital, I'm talking this kid is offering 10-12k for the car non-op, front end damage, and the entire front suspension and sub-frame still removed. Can keep new parts as well as OEM GTS parts which were removed and fetch good prices. I just feel I would rather find a cleaner SR5 shell and go from there. It just works out better... But we shall see.

    I will say.. that 4-AGE... Every time I run it, I just laugh, smile, and say "well--**** me".
    Last edited by Cloud_Strife; 04-20-2017 at 08:32 PM.
    1994 Protege LX 5MT /S, A/C, no Sun Roof.

  3. #48
    suspension mods intheworks FE3-323's Avatar
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    you'll have to look on the actual combustion side of the plug to see any form of green. just pull all of the plugs and have a look at each one. while your there might as well run a compression test on each cylinder.
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    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it


  4. #49
    Death To Cones!!! SgtRauksauff's Avatar
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    yeah, a compression test will help. Actually, if you can do a leakdown test, that will help as well. My compression tester has a connection to the gauge like an M-type (most common) for an air chuck between the gauge and the hose. So the spark-plug-hose was separate. I just took some fittings and another gauge to help with that. I set my compressor regulator to measure exactly 100psi, then run that into each cylinder when it's at TDC. When it's pressurized is time to pay attention.. if air bubbles are coming out of your coolant reservoir (or check under the rad cap) then you've got a HG leak for sure. If you've got air coming through the crankcase, like the dipstick hole or the pcv/breather, your rings are leaky (or, an HG leak to the oil galleys). If you hear it from the intake manifold, it's intake valves, and if you can hear it through the exhaust, it'll be an exhaust valve.

    google 'leakdown test', there's a bunch of howtos and guides out there if you need one.

    $10-12k for a non-running damaged one? Take advantage of that fanboi ASAP! Take that money, fly out to Seattle or L.A., buy a rust-free runner, and drive it home. I paid ~5k for a clean SR5 hatch from Seattle, and another 5k for a truck to tow with, and drove them home. Then a month later I run across a non-running SR5 coupe from Kansas, sold by a local guy. well, it ran, but smoked like crazy. turns out, when someone had painted the valve cover, they squished the drainback-slots for the PCV assembly, so oil would load up and get pushed back through the intake manifold. cracked open the slots, and no more smoke! So, I'll be putting my GT-S drivetrain in it soon, which will let me do some minor bodywork on the hatchback before it becomes the track slut. Which probably won't happen until the ST-205 drivetrain goes into the 4WD, since I got a msg from Jim that my rear subframe should be on its way shortly.....

    sorry to derail, but I'm getting back into the swing of car stuff now that it's getting warm and nice out!

    --sarge

  5. #50
    Registered User Cloud_Strife's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, I forgot that the last time I comp tested, the Autozone rental was so trash it gave me sub like 80 or 60 psi readings across the board, and I said I'd hold off until I purchased my own, decent comp tester.

    I have always been afraid of doing a leakdown, and would be totally new to it. I did use your write up on CV axle change, so I'll give the leak-down one a shot lol.

    I checked out the plugs though.. No green, but number three is a little wet. Not soaking, but enough to make a little drop puddle. Number 4 (going from right to left) also had a tinge of oil. I'm terrible about reading spark plug residue, but mostly it is a white slight powdery film on top.. Some more than others.

    However, it seems Cylinder #3 (from right to left) is being a bitch. The threads are very annoying to deal with, coupled with current observations (oil on plug) and my first plug change I noted:

    "All the old plug wires looked decent except number three. It came apart at the dizzy cap. The metal connector inside the cap was corroded with white powder (alkaline?) and seized itself inside the dizzy cap. Cleaned with Isopropyl alcohol temporarily. Spark #3, Spark wire #3 (on dizzy side) had white residue, but the high tension lead coming from the dizzy to the ignition coil was only corroded on the ignition coil side, not the distributor side which I thought was odd. Fortunately I guess NGK gave me a new ignition wire which surprised me. Since the Ig. Coil had the same white powder build up I replaced it with the one I had. "

    And no problem Sarge, both ClubProtege and Club4AG are so dead these days it gets a little old for non-FB guys. Pretty jealous about the 4WD... Summer is gross here. Too hot to work during the day and bugs that devour you at night.

    Current plugs (~167k):
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    When I purchased(~152k):
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    Maybe a little overheating, but would probably still fall under normal conditions on the tips. These are probably 5-10k miles on them. Also about 50 coolant mishaps.

    After 10 minutes at idle my temp gauge did not budge past middle, but my fan also did not engage. Going to order the "water thermoswitch" as the manual calls it. I thought it only fed the gauge, but It should also feed the signal to the fan to switch it on. Last time I grounded TFA and GND or whatever it is, the fan kicked on. The only other thing I can think of is the thermostat.

    Gonna go to Mazda and see if they can order thermostat, gasket, water thermoswitch. People call the coolant sensor like 46 names I swear. At least I know it's spade connector.
    Last edited by Cloud_Strife; 04-20-2017 at 11:10 PM.
    1994 Protege LX 5MT /S, A/C, no Sun Roof.

  6. #51
    Death To Cones!!! SgtRauksauff's Avatar
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    I think the oil you're seeing there is just from the valve cover gasket leaking on top of the spark plug. plug tips look fairly even across the board, that light-brownish color that means you're not running too lean or too rich. If coolant were getting into the combustion chamber, I'd think that the plugs would almost be "too clean" .

  7. #52
    Registered User Cloud_Strife's Avatar
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    Hmm.. Ok that is what I believe as well. It's more of a whitish tinge than gray but yeah.

    I still believe I have piston ring/blow by issues or something internal just from the oil breather tube alone.

    But I know for sure the VCG and Disty both leak oil. Never fixed a leaking disty so that will be a learning process. Going to address the coolant issues first and then go for oil.

    Damn rats ate 1/5th of my engine bay firewall insulation.... Hopefully someone can tell me I'm better off just ripping it out lol.
    1994 Protege LX 5MT /S, A/C, no Sun Roof.

  8. #53
    suspension mods intheworks FE3-323's Avatar
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    I have disty seals still if you need one let me know.
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it


  9. #54
    Registered User Cloud_Strife's Avatar
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    Thanks man, but already got a factory disty seal and VCG. If they screw up the order though, I'll let you know lol.

    Finally finished everything I wanted to for the coolant issues. Did Thermostat, Thermosensor, and had to make my own plug/harness for the sensor as the initial one was hanging on by a thread. Pretty happy with the results. The temp gauge is so firmly in the middle and never budges.. It's so sexy. On the thermoswitch that mounts in the housing, the box in the picture is wrong. Napa gave me what I believe to be the ATX sensor that mounts in the radiator housing as it has a spade connector. Also gave me the wrong gasket (pictured; you need 2-hole, not 3). Make sure to buy a separate rubber o-ring for the thermosensor in the t-stat housing, as the one that came with mine fell apart under hand tightening.
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    I super flushed the system making sure to get every bit of bull**** out before I even put coolant in. After close study it seems the smoke is actually oil burning. In the video it's washed out a bit, but there is actually a blue tint. I am burning quite a bit of oil.

    I'm not worried about it right now though, I'm having substantial power loss to the wheels and I believe this alternator is just a piece of junk. Purchased the MPV alt. and associated things I need so looking to tackle that.
    Last edited by Cloud_Strife; 04-27-2017 at 07:59 PM. Reason: I SAY DUMB THINGS
    1994 Protege LX 5MT /S, A/C, no Sun Roof.

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