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    Bought another BG

    Because why not?

    94' LX

    It was a fun buy because the guy didn't speak english. My favorite part was trying to describe that I wanted to do a compression test on the motor and he just watched in amusement.

    Price around 1k, clean title, pretty straight body, 6.5/10 respray job, gangster rims. Tires are new, but I can tell you those rims won't be on there long.

    Headliner is decent. First BG in FL I've seen that didn't have floppy fabric up top. No sunroof, I thought about it for a long time and I decided it's more trouble than it's worth, especially because the monsoon season will start here soon.

    Usual crap wrong with 90's jdm craigslist cars, nothing special really.

    Suspension is horrible, mounts are bad, really needs a good tune up. Wanky idle hunting at start up, clunking on hard turns, poor MPG, and for some reason the second BG that has the trunk lid or something back there shutter everytime I go over a speed bump.

    150K.

    Shifts good, the throws on this tranny are so long. I usually have to rev match to shift into overdrive.

    Radiator will need replacement soon. Lower hose I believe is incorrect type, there are kinks in it that force the hose to compress hard at both bends. I think the rad is original as I heard from the NA guys that OG rads flake off black and brown later on.

    No rust.

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    1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

    #2
    Tune up today with NGK wires, Iridium plugs, OEM filter and oil change (fancy 10W40). Also ended up replacing the ignition coil.
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    Oil crush washer is "DRAIN PLUG WASHER" (ISH9956-41-800)

    Old plugs look terrible. Much better than the DX though.
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    All the old plug wires looked decent except number three. It came apart at the dizzy cap. The metal connector inside the cap was corroded with white powder (alkaline?) and seized itself inside the dizzy cap. Cleaned with Isopropyl alcohol temporarily. Spark #3, Spark wire #3 (on dizzy side) had white residue, but the high tension lead coming from the dizzy to the ignition coil was only corroded on the ignition coil side, not the distributor side which I thought was odd. Fortunately I guess NGK gave me a new ignition wire which surprised me. Since the Ig. Coil had the same white powder build up I replaced it with the one I had.
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    Going to order a new cap through mazda I suppose. Seeing as how they don't offer whole distributors and they are too expensive; I'll be refreshing this one.

    Going through the JimEllis site: http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/sh...category=20231

    I'm not too sure if it matters that I buy just the cap or I just go ahead and get the cap, gasket, rotor, and cover while I'm at it. Never messed with dist. before.


    Also got some OEM pedals on there, cuz bare metal no gud.
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    Last edited by Cloud_Strife; 04-23-2016, 09:49 PM.
    1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

    Comment


      #3
      not a bad score! how much was it?
      ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

      1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




      I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
      he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks, $1,400.00.

        Got new tires and rims today, and road force balanced with the proper direction orientation

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        Tires: 195/55R-15 BFGoodrich g-Force Sport COMP-2
        Rims: 1999-2000 BJ Protege ES 15". Didn't know until I saw on the back but they are Enkeis.

        Still need center caps as the refurbished rims didn't come with them. Mazda still sells them as N067-37-190 (X4), and can be purchased here for 90 bucks, but that's a lot of dough and the finish will be different.. So since junkyards and ebay aren't options, I might try the WTBs.

        Overall I think they compliment the car very nicely.
        Last edited by Cloud_Strife; 04-24-2016, 01:29 PM. Reason: I don't know cars.
        1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

        Comment


          #5
          the rims look great!! they have to be from a base model protege. as the P5 was 5 lug
          ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

          1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




          I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
          he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by FE3-323 View Post
            the rims look great!! they have to be from a base model protege. as the P5 was 5 lug
            They're 99-00 only ES wheels.

            They're the same ones I use for summer tires.
            Beater=/= Sleeper

            Originally posted by kozzman555
            kitty, you are a hilarious woman
            Originally posted by HopelessCow
            there is one thing i dunno what is that call,a thing look like a gun, u press the button and stick to the metal and it makes firework, do i need that thing?and what s the philip head screw drivers?
            Using Linux for anything serious besides server or software dev is like using a tin can and a string for telecommunications.

            Comment


              #7
              Yeah I don't know anything about the P5s. Also, it was hard to find out about the rims on search queries. JimEllis showed it on 2001-2003 diagrams, and I thought that was the years made, but it was part of the fitment years (although it's pretty standard 4x100). They look nice though.

              So I decided to get under the car and try to figure out the clunking:



              Passenger side front. I know 12 and 6 shaking is typically hubs. I'm assuming this is a rack and pinion issue with mechanical failure inside. I got up and looked at it on jacks.. the FSM doesn't give much insight except for rebuilding once off the vehicle. It looks like a cross/sub frame? bolts will have to come off and general overall pain in the but. Time to search.+
              Last edited by Cloud_Strife; 04-24-2016, 09:18 PM.
              1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

              Comment


                #8
                Do that while looking at the ball joint to see if the play is there. Other areas would be tie rods and inner tie rods
                91 protege gt. dropzone mx3 springs, mx3 crossmember, ractive front and rear strut braces, rear lower mx3 brace, 4 wheel disc brakes, corksport ss brake and clutch lines,kvr front pads, ractive cai,ram air hood scoop, modified front bumper, shaved ant and rear trunk lock, fubu ant, short shifter, corksport bronzeoil shifter bushings,92 glass sunroof and tail lights, mx3 center console, autometer gauges (volt and oil pressure) cluster needles painted to match, sound system, 17 inch eagle alloy 193 with 205 40 17 rubber. klze is ALIVE BABY!! . http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2394656http://www.toprotege.com/forums/show...hlight=project[url]

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks 91. Today I went and did just that.

                  The movement is both horizontal (back and forth) play going into the inner rod/rack, and also pivoting movement along the lower ball joint which is completely blown.

                  Here is a vid:


                  Apologize for the sound in advance. The squeaking is just the rotor rubbing against the control arm.

                  What I can't see is if it's the balljoint ceasing restriction of movement or the inner rod/rack. I pulled the boot on the inner tie and it looked ok, so if it's something with the linkage I'm assuming it's further down.

                  I don't know if I sound stupid here, but is it obvious which one it is? The lower ball joint is not blown on the driver's side, and there is subsequently no play on that side of the steering. However, I think the only way to test which problem it would be on the passenger side, is to replace the ball joint and see if that is what usually restricts movement. But then again, the linkage shouldn't have any play right? Or at least not as much as it does? I'm not sure of any specified play in the FSM.
                  Last edited by Cloud_Strife; 04-25-2016, 12:22 PM.
                  1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    So the steering rack is not happy. It is loose where the inner tie rod meets the rack. I am not sure if that is fixable, but I got a quote from a good shop to replace the whole rack with tie rods and I will probably follow through with it. Between finals week and full term summer with chemistry, I doubt I'll have enough down time to even attempt it.

                    While she was up on the lift, the shop identified that the driver's rear caliper was not actuating, and subsequently the passenger side was completely gone as it had to do all the work. Also the struts are doing nothing but I knew that.

                    They also found a cut in the driver's side line and I believe a clip is missing.

                    I have the struts and pads covered, but I am wondering what you guys go to for calipers/rotors/and SS lines. Most of the posts I see here are in reference to Corksport which doesn't offer anymore. Also, I'm assuming I'll need to source some clips as that is not a dealer option or aftermarket part given with lines if I remember correctly.

                    Finally get to rebuild the distributor at least though.. Jim Ellis takes forever. I think I'll just stick to referring to their diagrams and ordering elsewhere.
                    1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The F*** is this?



                      Anyway, threw in my new Ebay rad with 40.00 mad tyte JDM cap. The old one was doing fine but fairly sure it was the original and I didn't want to play that game DD in the coming florida sun.

                      Also got my new reservoir in there. This time it went right in. Interesting to note that the new OEM tank doesn't have the dipstick style cap to monitor fluid level.

                      Also finally got my new OEM upper and lower hoses to replace the horrible ones on there:
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                      Old lower hose, no idea what happened here.

                      Also got to replace the distributor cap, rotor, and gasket cup.
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                      The cap I actually couldn't find through Mazda and sourced on Ebay.

                      Parts:

                      Qty Product # Price EA
                      1 DISTRIBUTOR ROTOR F22018V05B9U
                      1 GASKET, CAP FE3N18V57
                      1 HOSE, UPPER WATER B6S715186A
                      1 COVER, DISTRIBUTOR B3F518V48
                      1 HOSE, LOWER WATER B36615185A
                      1 Distributer Cap BP05-18-V00

                      The inside of the disty had some oil seep in. I Can't really see if it's the VCG or the CAS seal that is the culprit, but both will need to be replaced. I guess it could also be internal from the disty oil seal but not sure; that looks like a pain.
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                      I did my best to clean with Isopropyl and some swabs. Cleaned off the contact points for the rotor as well.

                      Seems to start much better, will need to adjust idle at some point. The air intake was disconnected and lose at every point. Also have oil in the air breather from the VC.

                      Things are starting to look good; also cleaned the bay up a bit.

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                      Last edited by Cloud_Strife; 05-04-2016, 09:25 PM.
                      1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        can i ask why you are spending so much money on OEM mazda parts?
                        ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                        1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                        I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                        he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Because Japan has quality control? It wasn't that much money.
                          And Ebay rads with RX7 caps are not OEM .

                          Probably didn't need to get OEM disty cap and rotors and gasket, but it was only about $40.00 USD to see "made in japan" with mazda packaging.


                          By the way, what is this guy on the air flow meter?
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                          I'm assuming it's a missing connector, or something that is used for trouble shooting purposes.. Or maybe one of those fancy dealer analyzing tools. It just stuck out since it's not on my "S" type DX AFM. or VAF. Whatever it's called.
                          Last edited by Cloud_Strife; 05-05-2016, 07:35 AM.
                          1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Back in my dealership days, we always replaced the rack over just the inner tie-rods. The labor was more and the rack usually had a leak or 2 by the time the inners were bad; so it was cheaper and faster to do the whole rack. If you where to replace the inner's at home, you'll need to get a special tool to get them out. I'm in agreement on the OEM parts; get them while you can; they are of higher quality and usually not that much more than aftermarket.

                            I don't remember BG MAFs having an "adjuster" there. Based on its position, it must be a stop for the "flapper" door. It would not be an adjustment you'd need to mess with. I'll take a look at the one I have for my 4x4 latter today and get back to you.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Yeah, that is where I am on the rack. When I peeled the boot back again there was fluid, just not much, so I'd agree on just getting a new rack assembly. Guess I'm just nervous about getting a reman'd rack (I'm assuming aftermarket power racks are remand) as it's a lot of labor just to find out something is not working properly once installed, so it might actually be worthwhile to pay the 400 for labor if I am getting a warranty from a reputable shop; still mulling it over. Still need to asses class load when it starts. I agree about OEM parts as well, they won't stay on shelves forever and are usually higher quality. I don't use the dealer for consumables, or big items such as calipers, major interior/exterior items, etc. which are at a huge premium.

                              I'd appreciate it!

                              Last edited by Cloud_Strife; 05-05-2016, 09:22 AM.
                              1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

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