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JDM Familia Interplay BG5P Restoration

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    #46
    And just for the people who are thinking,"you probably shouldn't have done that sham,..."
    A couple of pics of just how bad,and how good the different sets of brackets conditions were,..obviously the cleaner ones have the attachment for the smaller belt.
    I will be going with the full mz3 belt in the final build and have committed to this for now,I have the correct carpet plugs for the holes,and test fitted the brackets and the sit well(and look better tbh with the tidier small buckle),also someone correct me if I'm wrong,but if your seat is stretched fully back due to long legs-me-and You have your seat belt on,surely the fixed buckle makes more sense??.safety wise.
    Anyway,have the belts and buckles from mz2 should any problems/haters/second thoughts arise.
    Note-the couple of pics of buckles alone are just to show the small differences in the rear belts,the jdm ones being the ones with the unlock button on the face,edm or idm having the buttons on top.
    And obviously since the clean brackets came from mz3,the seat slide arm/lever underneath still has their rubbery handles on,in perfect shape and not split,or missing their tops--rare!!
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Scrummatron; 09-29-2016, 06:22 AM.

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      #47
      Wow, those brackets from the MZ3 look sooo much better. Have you test fitted these brackets to the seats (and plugging in interplay belts) before they went to the upholsters?

      Seats are a pain to mess with. On my integra the bottom springs (ones that go across the seat and support your bum) were rusty and every time I moved the seat forward or backward rust and pieces of foam would fall. So I ended up taking all of the fabric off, taking the seats apart, and sanding/drilling off all of the rust off the springs, and the whole "pan" (which held the bottom cushion).

      When I put the fabric, springs, and everything else back it was a huge pain. The hog rings were annoying to work with and getting everything right was a work in progress. I did complete it though, and although I could do it again I wouldn't want to lol. If you do get into it, try and take pictures along the way of exactly how the fabric is oriented (I.E. how it sits and pulls) and the hog ring placement. It's doable, just time-consuming and needs attention to detail. Worldhazard (a member on here) took his seats apart to put in heat warmers, so you might get some info from him in a PM

      I think you made the right choice on those brackets. Restoring brackets are not worth it in my opinion. I don't even know how you would separate the tracks to paint, I think they have riveted cylinders.

      And the spider web cracking/bubbling is rust building up underneath the black paint. Once it gets bad enough, it lifts the paint up and up until it flakes off and then you can see the rust. The front bolt holes are always rust heavy since people's wet feet is kicking around and touching that end base whether you realize it or not.

      Mazda patches look good, but remember you can't go back

      Things look great so far, gotta update mine....
      Last edited by Cloud_Strife; 09-30-2016, 07:08 PM.
      1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

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        #48
        Originally posted by Cloud_Strife View Post
        Wow, those brackets from the MZ3 look sooo much better. Have you test fitted these brackets to the seats (and plugging in interplay belts) before they went to the upholsters?

        Seats are a pain to mess with. On my integra the bottom springs (ones that go across the seat and support your bum) were rusty and every time I moved the seat forward or backward rust and pieces of foam would fall. So I ended up taking all of the fabric off, taking the seats apart, and sanding/drilling off all of the rust off the springs, and the whole "pan" (which held the bottom cushion).

        When I put the fabric, springs, and everything else back it was a huge pain. The hog rings were annoying to work with and getting everything right was a work in progress. I did complete it though, and although I could do it again I wouldn't want to lol. If you do get into it, try and take pictures along the way of exactly how the fabric is oriented (I.E. how it sits and pulls) and the hog ring placement. It's doable, just time-consuming and needs attention to detail. Worldhazard (a member on here) took his seats apart to put in heat warmers, so you might get some info from him in a PM

        I think you made the right choice on those brackets. Restoring brackets are not worth it in my opinion. I don't even know how you would separate the tracks to paint, I think they have riveted cylinders.

        And the spider web cracking/bubbling is rust building up underneath the black paint. Once it gets bad enough, it lifts the paint up and up until it flakes off and then you can see the rust. The front bolt holes are always rust heavy since people's wet feet is kicking around and touching that end base whether you realize it or not.

        Mazda patches look good, but remember you can't go back

        Things look great so far, gotta update mine....
        Ya,all the bits from mz3 goin into mz1,...in a word,they are all just "cleaner",all fits and clicks good,(have seen a lot of these brackets,but never like this,and mz1 belts and plastics otw to new owner soon.
        Honestly,won't be messin with the seats,..hav done it before too,a few times..inc putting this(pic 1),..into this(pic 2)....including recovering and re padding the bolsters,making up seat brackets,recovering doors and back seats,and custom fitting the carpet.(note the retro photographic prints,wasn't many build threads when they were taken),..
        True that pulling up the handbrake became a two man job,..but it was **** hot!.
        And messing with the front seats it is one of them things that I'm happy to pay an expert to do...shouldn't be too expensive.

        On the fence about the badges,I know they'll look good,...but as you say,...I can't go backlol

        Lots more on this to come as no one seems to pulling me up an anything so far,and cheers for the comments.
        Attached Files

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          #49
          So when I went to get mz1,it was a wet day (never good-but would've bought the car regardless of condition realy).
          Even in the rain,it was apparent that a few dodgy resprays had occurred, lacquer peel is always an issue on cars from southern Japan,and was claimed for the bonnet.
          obviously there had been some kind of tip in the back,and if it was anything more than a dented boot and cracked bumper then it was repaired very well,as there are no traces of any repair,and all looks original.
          I'm not an expert on car repair,but as you can by the pictures,these spray jobs are terrible,and the filler marks in the boot are completely laughable.
          Pic 1.bonnet to front wing match
          Pic 2.boot to rear quarter match
          Pic 3,4,5.comical boot repair.
          Attached Files

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            #50
            I'm bringing this up now,as apart from the welding,complete new interior,engine and running gear,a total respray is needed also.
            As I said,the bonnet and boot have been resprayed and a bit of filler-(no harm if done correctly),..and the back bumper may not be original-(but is correct for this car).
            Don't want to sound like kojack,but there are tiny stress cracks in the rear garnish,also minor scratches,right under the filler,..but the spoiler and quarters look like original factory paint,so,....My guess...I think it was reversed into a pole,and repaired in the garden.
            During this repair process,the spoiler was not reattached correctly,not all the bolts were used,and the seal on one side leaked,completely rusting away the metal bracket.
            Also,most likely while the garnish was off the car,it was mishandled.and the plastic/rubber seal on the top,that is incredibly brittle and easy to damage when old,or its cold,was chipped a lot.
            Note-obviously,new familia sticker needed.
            Attached Files
            Last edited by Scrummatron; 10-03-2016, 06:24 PM.

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              #51
              First up,the garnish/trunk plate saga....
              Unfortunatly,the garnish from mz3 had a pretty big crack right down the middle,and on closer inspection,the actual 323 sticker was on the inside of the red plastic',in a groove that fits it.so was unusable anyway for me.
              But as there were rear fog lights attached to the back of the garnish,and mz1 never had fogs of any description.i thought I'd give it a go swapping over the familia red glassy plastic bit,to the fog light enabled Irish 323 version,as I want the car to be road legal,and pretty sure you need a fog light of some kind,regardless of age.(maybe not for auld yokes)
              Note-I'm sure someone has done this before,but I have asked around for help or experience in similar with no joy,...bit of heat,the best advice received.
              Attached Files

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                #52
                Bit of heat was tbh,all that was needed for the familia/jdm garnish.
                And a half hour with the "snap on" hair dryer,and a butter knife was plenty to pry and wiggle off the little tabs and that contact cement gunk that holds things like this together.
                Note-if your ever trying this,...that moment over the crest moment when one side goes and you give it that extra bit of torque is risky in particular to the opposite corner so be gentle,...
                This wouldn't happen if using a uniform method to heat it up,but these things a brittle as hell as yee well know.
                Small,inner -invisible from the back-piece broken off during this moment by me......"lucky!!!".
                Attached Files

                Comment


                  #53
                  Then moving onto the 323/edm garnish,..
                  Not sure if these were made in the same place,they have the same made in Japan jargon on them,but clearly there was somthing different in the manufacturing process,as there was a lot more glue,probably twice as much!,..
                  This did not come apart easily at all,-probably would've in a big oven,but I don't have one-and after an hour of struggling,and making the already cracked garnish worse,I gave up,and just broke it out in 2 pieces,as it's likely the 323 garnish would be worthless to anyone cracked,and I only needed the fog light enabled back panel anyway.
                  Note-removing the perfectly intact delicate rubber/plastic seal before hand is advisable.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                    #54
                    Without going on about this for ages,though I already am...
                    The bits I wanted intact were still in relatively good shape,-familia back piece has a small crack,and some weird stress marks that are easier to photograph in odd light and from the back(pic2),and a few scratches that may actually buff out(pic1).
                    However,I will be striving to attain a 'budget' version of '323 permin's' enviously perfect and mega clean finish on the car as a whole eventually,so I will be changing the familia back piece again to a "mint" one,should one become available.
                    That is perfect!!
                    Hair drying the glue to the back of the black plastic is adviseable for reattaching,and the fire was used together with the hairdryer to get a bigger overall heat up,..then,a few slowly adjusted clamps to get the bits together gud'n'tight.
                    Note-change position regularly and do not leave garnish unattended in front of the fire.
                    Attached Files

                    Comment


                      #55
                      And finally,the finished article,...
                      Very happy with this.
                      Note-all the bolts screws and seals on the backplate,having come from mz3,are in almost totally mint condition,so will be using the seals initially,and watching for a leak,but I'm pretty confident they are all good to go.
                      Final pic is the factory boot hole spaces on mz1 to enable the finished garnish to bolt right up,I have the bulb holders to fit,so with some electrical nous provided by fellow cp member,this will be done in good time.
                      And obviously the dodgy sticker lets it down(will be replaced soon)

                      Bit of detective work turns out the very last bg familia sedans came with a familia fog light rear garnish.
                      Great to know.
                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by Scrummatron; 01-10-2019, 06:14 PM.

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                        #56
                        So with the garnish sorted,or as good as can be for now.on to the spoiler.
                        I should be posting pics of it totally perfect by now,but I'm still waiting on parts from Mazda for this.
                        I first contacted the nearest Mazda dealer about 2 months ago,(Mazda dealer in my town closed 7 years ago)and after 5-6 phone calls,and 16 emails,I am waiting on a bracket for the spoiler as the one that attaches the left side is rusted through in several places,and is seriously pitted to the point that it's very weak.
                        Stripped and cleaned and reassembled,it is ready to sand and paint,once the brackets and clips arrive.
                        Attached Files

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                          #57
                          A couple of other notable items salvaged from mz3 (RIP) that I think deserve a mention now(basically just more filler till the welding is completed,but I was going to post these either way)
                          I have to say that I am pretty happy with these also,and they will certainly add to the quality of finish to mz1.
                          Firstly,the dash I mentioned in an earlier post that came in mz3 was a grey that matched the salvaged interior plastics,the one that came in mz1 was black.i brought it home and its accompanying parts,and gave them a good clean,they came up very,very well.there is so much detail in the vinyl that I had to post some pics of it.
                          Attached Files

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                            #58
                            And like a lot of these bg's I've had before,mz1 has a couple of different keys.
                            Mz3 came with a full service history from new,all documents and a lot of receipts and the like,and 3 original Mazda keys.
                            This lock set being so perfect and in near new condition,will be going into
                            Mz1,along with the ignition barrel and locking glovebox,(don't think jdm cars had this).
                            .I broke a key in a gtx I had years ago and the Mazda dealer and in town that was open then told me that these cars came from Mazda with 3 keys,...
                            In their words,a master key-the bigger one I guess,that has a Mazda number on it,(not sure why it was "on" the actual key) that Mazda can use this code to get a new key if you lose it.
                            And 2 others.
                            Not sure if that's true,but as I never bought one new,and this has 3 keys and is the most complete one I've come accross,I guess he was right??,
                            Anyone who knows different,dive on in.
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                              #59
                              As mentioned earlier,the carpet and roofskin/headliner in mz1 needed replacing,the carpet is salvageable and is in decent condition,a few stains but no holes,I'm sure it would come up good with a good clean.(for sale cheap)
                              but as I will be switching the front belt system,and the carpet from mz3 still has factory groove lines in it,is very,very clean and the holes in the rear foot wells won't be an issue with it,i will be using it instead.
                              The headliner from mz1 however is probably the dirtiest I've ever seen,cars belonged to heavy smokers often have dirty headliners,but this one has actual "dirt",..proper "dirt"(it's realy,realy bad and pics don't do its mankyness justice)has a lot of holes in it too,but weirdly,no sagging,,.?
                              Attached Files
                              Last edited by Scrummatron; 10-10-2016, 02:35 PM.

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                                #60
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                                On the keys, yours are much different than mine, and I'm kind of jealous -_-

                                I actually just bought a full lockset on Ebay a month ago (included trunk, left/right front doors, ignition cylinder, and trunk). It wasn't bad at about 100 USD. I think it was worth it, although some of the locks can be a pain, it was a good learning experience as the design is basically the same across 90's cars.

                                When you bought a Protege at the dealer, you received (2) Master Keys, (1) "Valet" key, and (1) I.D. tag. The black one pictured is one of my masters, with the valet key that is bare and non-rubber. The purpose of the dinky valet key is that it cannot open the glove box, and I believe gas cap (if you have one) and possibly trunk (haven't tried). This is the key you give to people you don't trust.

                                The tag, from what I've been told after buying multiple key sets, is to help when you lock yourself out or lose a key so that the dealer can make it to your lock specifics. I think the number corresponds to the design of the key and how the lock cylinder wafers are constructed but that is just a huge guess. The tags are really important nowadays with the advent of chipped keys that are much more difficult to replace.

                                I really like the square keys over the round USDM ones. I wonder if that is just IDM or if it's the earlier models? I have a spare new trunk lock that I didn't use and is sitting around which has a square type key. Personally I like those better....
                                1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

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