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    Hard to start when warm

    and runs a bit rough at first.

    As the title says, fine when its cold, fires straight up, idles fine. Say if i am driving and the engine is warm, ive stalled it and the car will not start up straight up, so much so i drained the battery trying to. (lucky i have a booster pack in the boot) If i leave it for 5-10mins it will fire up after quite a few cranks as the starter seems a bit hesitant/sticky and seems to run a bit lumpy, give it a few mins and its fine again, runs fine.

    I dont think the battery is the best as its flat some mornings when i come out if its a cold night, (reason for the booster pack) and plan on getting a new one when i get paid. Ive changed the water thermo sensor thinking it might be that, checked timing, fuelling and fuel pressure seems fine. The plugs/leads/dizzy cap and rotor arm have all been replaced recently. Seems to run a bit lean on the wideband 16-17 at idle, but driving its all good.

    I am at a bit of a loss at what the issue could be, any help would be much appreciated.

    1989 323 B6T

    #2
    have you actually checked your fuel pressure?? what ratings are you seeing?
    how is your compression?
    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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      #3
      Its been doing it since before i done the head gasket a few weeks ago so i would say compression is fine, i dont have a compression checker so i dont know 100% but as it runs fine most of the time id say it should be ok, its just when first start up when warm. I have an inline gauge before the adjustable FPR and its reading around 45psi which what ive read it should be set at from the manual.

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        #4
        first startup = cold

        when warm= the remainder .... so your saying it basically never starts right. I would highly suggest buying a compression tester, or taking it to get the test done.
        ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

        1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




        I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
        he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

        Comment


          #5
          Ok, will go from there, i think i know someone who has one so should be able to borrow it.

          Comment


            #6
            My old B6T car used to do this. Supposedly, it was an issue with the distributor though it had some compression issues as well. (I sold the car before I could sort it out because of how intermittent it was)

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              #7
              I do have a spare distributor i could try, but its not a simple unplug and plug new one in as a previous owner butchered the wires and the dizzy is hard wired to the loom, no connector.

              I will be sourcing a new engine sometime soon, probably an early low mileage long nose MX5 block, pop the rods and pistons out, hone the cylinders, put some B6T pistons in, rebuild a spare head ive got lying and all good to go, hopefully. :D

              I had a little fiddle last night, adjusted the mixture at the afm and made it a bit richer so its not leaning out so much at idle which has helped it idle better after it starts and dont seem so lumpy, still struggles to start when warm which if im honest, could be the battery on its last legs, not got the cranking power when warm. I will do that compression test, see how it goes.
              Last edited by KMpuggy; 01-25-2017, 03:02 PM.

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                #8
                Found the issue and its one of them stupid issues which you are embarrassed to admit to. The coil to distributor lead was not fully plugged in at the coil end, i was going to change the coil and went to pull off the lead and it just fell off, i also noticed it was split so i changed it for a spare one i had. Must of been causing all sorts of problems as it now fires straight up when warm, idles fine, seems to run a lot better as it obviously would. Running rich now so gotta move the afm cog thingy back a couple of clicks.

                Last edited by KMpuggy; 01-28-2017, 07:29 PM.

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                  #9
                  car looks good!^^^ glad you figured it out
                  ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                  1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                  I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                  he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                  Comment

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