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    Dropping rpm and stalling

    My 91 323 will sometimes drop rpm really badly when i put it into nuetral to the point it will sometimes stall. It seems to only want to drop rpm either when I drive it for quite a while after the engine has been warmed up, and even then, it only drops rpm about 30% of the time. The other 70% it idles perfectly. I either have to heel toe the throttle while braking to keep the engine alive, or let it stall and start the car with the key. Outside of this, the engine runs perfectly normal. So what gives?

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

    #2
    Disconnect the throttle position sensor and see how it reacts.
    '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
    '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
    http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

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      #3
      Disconnecting the tps didn't really change anything. I did notice it only wants the drop rpm and stall when the radiator fan is on, and this morning it did idle high the entire time I was driving to work. It peaked at around 1900rpm at one point. I tried checking for air leaks, but didn't find any.

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        #4
        how is your coolant level?
        ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

        1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




        I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
        he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

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          #5
          You can hook an ohmeter up to the tps just to make sure it's OK, a smooth change in resistance is what is supposed to happen. if coolant level is OK, then we start looking at any and all wiring. Intermittent crap like this is such a pain in the ass...

          drop rpm and stall when rad fan is on.... hmmmm. How old is your battery? This seems unlikely as it prolly would not wanna crank over.
          '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
          '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
          http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
          http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

          Comment


            #6
            Coolant was a little low

            Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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              #7
              top it off & did that change anything?
              ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

              1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




              I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
              he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

              Comment


                #8
                No change lol. Just drove it at night, and it seems having the headlights on also drops the rpm. I'll check the battery tomorrow to see if it's good.

                Still doesn't explain the high idle when I'm driving for the first 20 to 30 minutes. It kinda acts like the throttle is sticking on sometimes. I'll look at it more thoroughly tomorrow

                Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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                  #9
                  Battery or alternator or regulator or some happy meal combo of all of the above, man. if you don't have enough volts, the car will draw more amps and that can do all manner of evil weirdness.
                  '90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
                  '90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
                  http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
                  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486

                  Comment


                    #10
                    ace alternators on ebay 140amp units..... never worry about power again
                    ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                    1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                    I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                    he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Gotcha lol. I'll look into it

                      Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by FE3-323 View Post
                        ace alternators on ebay 140amp units..... never worry about power again
                        Direct plug and play replacement for the 323?

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                          #13
                          I would just warn that 3rd party alternators have horrible quality control for these chassis. alternators and compressors are by far the worst with my experience being a 75% fail rate.

                          I would highly suggest you buy from a reputable company like Bosch or go through the dealer. Alternators are important and too much of a pain during install to decide cheap out on, in my opinion.

                          Good luck
                          1991 Protege LX 5MT, P/S, A/C, NOW Sun Roof!

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                            #14
                            i've had amazing quality & even spoken with the owner. the ones from ACE alternators are higher quality than OEM IMHO
                            ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                            1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                            I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                            he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Cloud_Strife View Post
                              I would just warn that 3rd party alternators have horrible quality control for these chassis. alternators and compressors are by far the worst with my experience being a 75% fail rate.

                              I would highly suggest you buy from a reputable company like Bosch or go through the dealer. Alternators are important and too much of a pain during install to decide cheap out on, in my opinion.

                              Good luck
                              I agree with this. Lot's of problems.
                              1991 Protege LX with GTX swap, DD
                              1990 4WD Protege with GTX swap, Project/garage decoration
                              2006 Mazda 3 with 2.3, Her car
                              1980 Ford F100 Short bed with 300ci 6 cylinder, work truck/home for moss

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