Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

My GTX Refuses To Start! Video added

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Makes me wonder if your ignition switch is bad

    Comment


      #17
      It cranks and has power to the coil.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by FE3-323 View Post
        run a test power wire to the distributor plug & see if it'll fire under that test.

        Did you check for power at the ecu?
        what were the circumstances before the car didn't run? or is this an acquired project
        Are you recommending running 12V straight to the distributor? There are six (6) pins on the distributor plug...?

        The ECU is getting power as the fuel pump is turning on and pouring fuel, verified as I cracked the rubber fuel line out of the fuel filter that is mounted on the firewall.

        This is not a project recently acquired, it is Craig Hansen's former car that I bought in 2014 and completely rebuilt the car (that's why its so frustrating):

        Comment


          #19
          A few things that come to mind that you may have already checked as a look over the wiring diagram.

          -Do you have 12v to the Pin4(BW) wiring going to the six pin Distributor? That is looks like the main power feed into the distributor.

          Have you checked the main Relay? And the fuses that feed to it. The YG wire off the main relay feeds into the knock controller which also feeds into the distributor. It's my assumption that we can remove the knock controller and have no "ill" effects to the system but maybe that assumption is wrong.

          You said you did a check on the ECU to Distributor. Did both Pin1(BG) and Pin5(Y) have solid contention?

          My assumption from looking at the wiring diagram, is that your not getting the correct signal to the Distributor pin. The Pin4 BW is the wire I really want to know about. It's the 15Amp feed right from the ignition but it is also the same feed to the fuel pump control. So if your getting fuel but not getting feed on that pin, then you have a short in that length of wire. If you are getting 12v to that Pin, then we need to start looking at it's grounds(which sounds like you have) then start narrowing down the ECU feed or the Knock Controller.

          Comment


            #20
            ^ Thanks Wildfire, really great suggestions there, let me look further at Pin4 (BW) to the distributor.

            I have not checked the main relay, only the 80 Amp and other fuses that are are on the left strut tower. Stupid question...the main relay is under the dash adjacent to the fuse box and other relays?

            I didn't check from the Distributor to the ECU only coil to the ECU, thinking that the problem was the coil wires...so let spend some time checking the wires from the distributor to the ECu <- great suggestion.

            I've been told yes and no that the car will run without the knock box and haven't really investigated this any further.

            Time to get busy and get comfy with the multi meter.

            As an aside I was riding my road bike this morning, took a hard fall and I am road rash mess right now, bloody and stings everywhere...when it rains it straight dumps!

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by slownrusty View Post
              ^ Thanks Wildfire, really great suggestions there, let me look further at Pin4 (BW) to the distributor.

              I have not checked the main relay, only the 80 Amp and other fuses that are are on the left strut tower. Stupid question...the main relay is under the dash adjacent to the fuse box and other relays?

              I didn't check from the Distributor to the ECU only coil to the ECU, thinking that the problem was the coil wires...so let spend some time checking the wires from the distributor to the ECu <- great suggestion.

              I've been told yes and no that the car will run without the knock box and haven't really investigated this any further.

              Time to get busy and get comfy with the multi meter.

              As an aside I was riding my road bike this morning, took a hard fall and I am road rash mess right now, bloody and stings everywhere...when it rains it straight dumps!
              That sucks about the road rash. I got a small amount when I high sided my old ninja 250 but I was doing like 15-20 when it happened. So it was a a mere "flesh wound" :D Hope you and the bike are ok.

              As for the relay, I am not 100% where the relay is. I know it gets it's power via the two 30Amp fuses in the end bay, so it could easily be on the relay right by the main fuse box or be in the main fuse box area under the dash =/. Sadly my knowledge of the GTX isn't as detailed as I'd like even after having mine for 3years. Just haven't gotten the time to really work on and learn the ins and outs of the cars. .

              Well keep me in the loop, as solving problems like this is "fun" for me.

              Comment


                #22
                Does it have power to the coil while it cranks?

                Comment


                  #23
                  ^ yes he does, have a quick look at the video in the first post.
                  ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                  1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                  I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                  he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Originally posted by slownrusty View Post
                    As an aside I was riding my road bike this morning, took a hard fall and I am road rash mess right now, bloody and stings everywhere...when it rains it straight dumps!
                    Bicycle or motorbike?

                    I once fell with my old racing bicycle, when a car in front of me stopped in a turn, while it was raining. Wet roads and 23mm slicks don't mix well. At least it was at a low speed, so not much damage done. Speaking of which, I need to get fit again so I can get back to racing.
                    '87 Mazda 323 SL - daily driver, backup show car (being restored as I get time)
                    '82 BMW 518i (E12/8) with 32/34 Weber and Simota cone - old show car (stolen)
                    '70 VW 411L Auto - show/restoration project to replace 518i - sold
                    '99 BMW Z3 2.8 Roadster - show project

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Yes I have 12V to the coil, but unable to throw spark to the distributor. I feel a bit better today and going to spend some time today troubleshooting based on some great suggestions from you guys (thanks Clay, Wildfire, FE3-323).

                      JKuhn - I was on my bicycle.

                      I'll report back later for sure.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        OK guys - reporting back in.

                        I carefully took apart the distributor plug from the EFI harness, notice the green wire is barely holding on for life (barely two strands in contact with the pin) and you can see there is an aftermarket crimp on it - which leads me to believe that the harness has been tampered with:



                        But at least I confirmed that I have almost 12V going to the black \ white distributor wire:


                        I swapped out the main relays with a brand new one I bought from O'Reileys and no change.



                        Comment


                          #27
                          so did you fix the green wire then? good to see you have voltage at the disty now
                          ---Has ClubProtege helped you in someway? show your support by Contributing--- Click Here---

                          1992- project FE3..... 313 WHP @ 9.3psi




                          I pet my dash when I get into the car..."good car"
                          he actually has a mazda tree, parts grow on it

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Also looking over the G wiring is part of the knock system that all seems to tie into the 1N on the ECU switch happens to be the same grounding switch to fire the coil.

                            My mind is a little tired due to my kidos waking me up an hour earlier then normal =/. I'll keep thinking but I agree with FE3 to fix that G wire and see what that changes.

                            So I had one to those hmm moments.

                            Have you confirmed that the timing belt is still good and that the Cam is spinning? But yea I'd confirm that the Dissy is spinning when cranking? Would the first GTX I know to break a CAM but not the first B-series motor. A buddy snapped this CAM in his NA8. Best part is he snapped the CAM side and was stumped at why it wouldn't crank, as everything tested fine. =/. I am praying you don't have that issues.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Unfortunately I didn't get around to fixing the green wire yesterday as I don't have the correct (tiny) female connector to crimp on, hopefully today I'll swing by the parts store, hopefully they have the "right" sized one.

                              Wildfire - Good call on the timing belt, I was thinking the same and actually checked it a few weeks ago as that's exactly where my mind went (maybe the t-belt snapped), but it is in good shape and fairly newly (this engine was apparently rebuilt in 2014 by Craig). I'll check the cams just for piece of mind. I know you're sleep deprived, so thanks for your help!

                              I also bought a new ignition barrel and harnesses from Rock Auto, I should have it by tomorrow, so I can strike that off the "process of elimination" list.

                              As an comparative experiment last night, I shut the garage door, made it morgue dark and disconnected the wire from the coil to the distributor on my running GT and grounded it to the strut tower and it was like the 4th of July when I cranked the car. When I do the same on the GTX...nada! Not even a flicker of hope..laughing..which is why I am thinking this issue is electrical.

                              Thanks again!
                              Yasin

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by slownrusty View Post
                                As an comparative experiment last night, I shut the garage door, made it morgue dark and disconnected the wire from the coil to the distributor on my running GT and grounded it to the strut tower and it was like the 4th of July when I cranked the car. When I do the same on the GTX...nada! Not even a flicker of hope..laughing..which is why I am thinking this issue is electrical.

                                Thanks again!
                                Yasin
                                Just cause sometimes I am stupid/overworked, and want to confirm. You are talking about the "spark plug wire" that goes from the coil it's self to the dizzy?

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X