Yasin those are the fan relays. The main relay is on the inner fender behind the drivers headlight.
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My GTX Refuses To Start! Video added
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Originally posted by Wildfire0310 View PostJust cause sometimes I am stupid/overworked, and want to confirm. You are talking about the "spark plug wire" that goes from the coil it's self to the dizzy?
Originally posted by azgtx View PostYasin those are the fan relays. The main relay is on the inner fender behind the drivers headlight.
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Clay or Yasin correct me if I am wrong, as a younger guy my knowledge of Dizzy cars are limited. The ECU grounds(or ungrounds) the main coil, every 180 degrees of crank rotation(for 4cyl). This causes the main coil to fire a strong spark to the dissy, which rotates via the CAM, and aligns the cap and rotor to fire the right cylinder. BOOM happens and everyone is happy
If that is truly how mazda's system works, then here is what I am thinking
--You have confirmed power to the coil, yet get no spark from the coil, and already tested with a known good one
--Lack of spark to the coil makes me believe the issues is "with the Ecu", yet you have tested with a known good one
--This leads me to believe either the ecu isn't grounding correctly and can't fire off the coil
--OR more likely the ecu isn't getting a signal from the motor of it's state(this is where i currently stand)
Things that would be great to know:
Are you getting tach signal when cranking? My assumption is no since the tach is driven by the coil firing.
Have you confirmed if your injectors are firing? I know you confirmed fuel pressure, but what about firing. <-- this goes with my lack of engine signal.
Right now I am currently thinking that dissy isn't sending a signal to the ecu to tell it the rotation of the Cam and therefore the engine doesn't know when to fire. Aka no timing.
Biggest things here
Cam not spinning(broken TB or heaven forbid, broke CAM, also is it possible for a Dissy to break internally?, aka cam side is spinning but rotor side isn't?)
wiring Harness gave up the ghost, and you have a short from the Dissy to the ecu. Sadly with 5 different wires that all feed back to the ecu either directly or indirectly(via the knock controller to coil ground) that isn't super easy to track =/.
Maybe you can get lucky and just swapping out the Main Relay now the Clay has informed us of where it is, thanks Clay :D.
Hope this is helping.
--Bryan
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I haven't read everything so I'm sorry if it's been mentioned, but a local club member recently told me how an old E series engine had a partially broken pully that turned about 90 degrees, throwing the timing marks way off. It's a long shot, but maybe you should check everything for alignment.'87 Mazda 323 SL - daily driver, backup show car (being restored as I get time)
'82 BMW 518i (E12/8) with 32/34 Weber and Simota cone - old show car (stolen)
'70 VW 411L Auto - show/restoration project to replace 518i - sold
'99 BMW Z3 2.8 Roadster - show project
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Bryan that looks to be on point. That harness is the main suspect. The car ran then it didn't then ran again and didn't. Good parts swapped in except the harness would make me now swap that out. Yasin I would not try and fix it but get another one. Well maybe try and fix it but get another good one and lose this one.
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Wow..love this discussion guys! Y'all are awesome friends.
Bryan - I'll pull the valve cover this weekend and confirm the condition of the cams and that the entire valve train is turning together when I turn the key. I've now tried three (3) different distributors in the car and no change. I'm not getting a tach signal either for the reason you've stated above.
I've also sprayed generous amounts of STP engine starter into one of the intake manifold's vacuum ports and nothing happened, confirming the spark plugs are not getting 12V.
As Clay mentioned one day I drove the car into work and it ran like a champ, that evening it refused to start when I was ready to head home. The same thing happened when I spoke with Clay a few weekends ago, it ran that evening we spoke the next day it refused to start and its been that way ever since.
*Update I'm in the process of trying to secure another running car, nothing finalized but if you guys know of one at a fair price I'm ready to swap out that EFI harness as I firmly believe that's the culprit as Clay mentioned above.
I'll look into that main relay too
Thanks so much to everyone.
Yasin
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Originally posted by slownrusty View PostWow..love this discussion guys! Y'all are awesome friends.
Bryan - I'll pull the valve cover this weekend and confirm the condition of the cams and that the entire valve train is turning together when I turn the key. I've now tried three (3) different distributors in the car and no change. I'm not getting a tach signal either for the reason you've stated above.
I've also sprayed generous amounts of STP engine starter into one of the intake manifold's vacuum ports and nothing happened, confirming the spark plugs are not getting 12V.
As Clay mentioned one day I drove the car into work and it ran like a champ, that evening it refused to start when I was ready to head home. The same thing happened when I spoke with Clay a few weekends ago, it ran that evening we spoke the next day it refused to start and its been that way ever since.
*Update I'm in the process of trying to secure another running car, nothing finalized but if you guys know of one at a fair price I'm ready to swap out that EFI harness as I firmly believe that's the culprit as Clay mentioned above.
I'll look into that main relay too
Thanks so much to everyone.
Yasin
I think a new harness is going to solve a lot of your problem... now the challenge of finding a good EFI harness.
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Ok guys...just got another GTX arrived this morning from Seattle, WA. Car runs, has some decent parts on it but is rough.
Here's a quick video, yes I'm a goof (but you all knew that) and it was certainly pouring all weekend in Houston.
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This reminds me of a stage rally what.. 10 years ago, we were kicking butt and taking names in Open class. Stage 4, a short tarmac section. We get within a few hundred yards of the finish and the poor ol GTX just up and died. From redline in 4th to buggerall nuthin just like that. We spent the next 26 minutes trying and failing utterly to find the problem. We had fuel, spark, and air. No reason whatsoever for it to not run. it didn't give a **** about that. Dead as a doornail. Then it decided we'd suffered enough and it started, with no hint of a problem and we finished the stage and finished the rally. We never did find out why it did this to us. I've never had a more love/hate relationship with, well, anything... we went from overall stage win on Crane Creek to completely out of the running the very next stage, for no damn reason other than that car had a mind of its own and was a codependent beeyotch. Here's hoping you find out why yours doesn't wanna cooperate. Oh and yes that green disty wire is mission critical.'90 AWD Protege, full GTR drivetrain swap, ~320 whp daily driver, RIP, and
'90 AWD Protege, yet another GTR swap, Open class rallycar with a Toyota GT4 gearbox swap, thus crossing the line between hobby and mental illness. And a Brabus E55 K8, removing all doubt.
http://www.wihandyman.com/forum/vbpi...?do=view&g=110
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2599486
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