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Can't turn over after sitting a few months (1986 323 B6 SOHC)

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    #31
    Do these models have a conventional EGR valve on them? I can't seem to find where this one might be, but I'd like to check it. Also going to pull and backflush/clean the injectors for good measure just in case - they may well be partially gummed up from sitting for a few months. Trying to find low-cost wins because cash is a bit tight at the moment and I'm reluctant to keep replacing parts that don't solve the actual issue. 15 inches of steady vacuum does likely suggest ignition timing, but I already have it at a rock-solid 10 degrees and can't really improve that at all.

    I'm familiar with how to get the OBD codes off of Festivas... I gather the process is siimlar for BF's? Some sort of jumper and a warning light on the dash?

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      #32
      I don't think it has any kind of EGR system at all. They didn't in the US. Not even in California.

      OBD retrieval should be similar to Festivas, if not the same. Exactly as you described.
      1990 Protege 4WD
      GT-X BP26 swap [AT->MT]|Cup holder cut to fit|Synthetic gear oil|Synthetic brake fluid|Corksport SS brake/clutch lines|Mazdaspeed HV oil pump|GT-X front STB|Corksport type I rear STB|Matching full-size spare wheel|Homebrew Brass shifter bushing|Speed Source brass shifter cable bushings|EDM headlights/corners|FMIC|EDM cabin vents

      1 3 5
      ├┼┤
      2 4 R


      Seeking: Canadian 4WD seatbelts.

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        #33
        I did some injector cleaning, new seals, and re-did the throttle body and intake manifold gaskets today. It seems to have improved the car's running performance considerably though only at idle. Most of the white-ish smoke I had before from the tailpipe is also gone, and I had to reset the ignition timing as it was way off. That tells me the intake manifold gasket definitely needed doing. Under load, the popping is still prevalent and anything more than 15% throttle proves futile. Thinking coil or weak spark at this point, but will be compression testing shortly!

        Forgot to run the OBD retrieval, but hopefully can get to that in the morning.

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          #34
          Here are the compression results: https://imgur.com/a/tp9l2.

          Cold: 130-90-125-140
          Warm Dry: 140-140-140-150

          Chilton's (often not a reliable source) says the B6 has a 9.3:1 compression ratio, so the cylinder pressure is definitely lower than what I had hoped.

          Questions I have:

          1. Is it possibly my cam timing is still off a tooth with numbers like that? It's so evenly distributed but on the low side that it has me curious what could do that.

          2. Spark plugs two and three (fewer than 50Km/30Mi on them) had white tips, indicating overheating. Does that indicate anything useful that it was the middle cylinders exclusively?

          3. I can't seem to find an effective walk-through on testing the efficiency/power of the coil, but haven't confirmed it's rock solid - any documentation I can reference on the forums here?

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            #35
            New coil, new cap, and new rotor. Had noticed that I could unplug spark plug wire one without being jolted and the engine wouldn't die. Cap was chipped so I figured $15 at RockAuto for the three was a good call. Full spark to cylinder one has got me back to 15inHg at 8-10*BTDC. I'm insanely frustrated that the idle is still low and the car is completely undriveable... one can't even put it into gear without it dying and refusing to start eight times out of ten. Backfires like crazy and rumbles uncomfortably.

            Going to get the exhaust uncoupled and attempt to soak/clean the cat up. Don't have the financial resources to replace the cat just yet, though I'd love to chop'n'clamp in a newer unit eventually. 31 years of deposits and combusted-petroleum filth probably hasn't done it many favors.
            Last edited by Aaronbrook37; 11-27-2017, 01:53 PM.

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              #36
              Well, giving the cat a bath/wash/rinse/dry seems to certainly have improved things quite a bit. After replacing it and torquing everything to spec, I'm now getting 17inHg with basically zero flutter on the needle. The cat spring-bolts were a bit loose admittedly - I think a friend who was helping me forgot to torque them down. Either way, the car seems to idle a lot better... but it continues the earlier-described behavior the second one puts it into any gear other than P/N. Starting to wonder whether my transmission could use a flush and some fresh fluid, or what else might disproportionately cause issues in gear under load compared to at idle.

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                #37
                Haven't made any progress here... really starting to wonder if I should just scrap the project altogether. It's been such a fuss for the past six months and it's certainly doing me no favors sitting around in my parents' driveway. *sigh*

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