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Mazdaspeed Protege Springs, Struts and Stabilizer Bars Installed

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    #16
    Thanks for posting the photo NegatiZE. I'm sure it will make things a lot clearer for those who want to do this mod.

    02 DX Millenium Red
    02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
    MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
    MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
    Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
    MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
    Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
    Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
    Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
    Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
    Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
    Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
    Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
    Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by goldstar
      The Stabilizer Bar kit is $368 ($450 sugg. retail) at: www.mazdastuff.com
      The BN7H-28-156E bushings were $26 for the pair at my local dealer.

      02 DX Millenium Red
      never mind. I see it's for the kit. I thought it was for one bar..

      okok that's not bad.
      I may look into that for my 2nd gen.
      photo album|photo album 2 (pbase)

      dbest1a AT yahoo DOT com

      Comment


        #18
        Mazdaspeed Trailing Links Installed

        I'm resurrecting this thread not only because I've expanded on the original material but I'm also adding new material related to the MSP suspension and it makes sense for search purposes to keep it all together rather than dispersing related material throughout several different posts.

        Stage 3, Trailing Links
        TheMAN discovered that the MSP trailing links, as well as the front upper strut mounts have stiffer rubber bushings than the standard components. To complete my MSP suspension odyssey, on August 15th, 2006 I ordered a pair of trailing links from my dealer. The parts numbers are:
        B3OJ-28-250B (left side)
        B3OJ-28-200B (right side)
        The cost was US $94.60 + $6.63 state theft for a total of $101.23.

        Later in August I installed them on my car. Since the other MSP suspension components had been previously installed and I was fully aware by now of their performance characteristics, it was relatively easy to note any additional differences attributable to the new links. I have a series of "test twisties" that I use to compare tire and suspension differences so that I can rule out road surface and curvature variables as contaminating factors, for the most part.

        The first and most striking difference, as you would expect, was the increased rear suspension stiffness either straightline or in corners. During hard cornering, there was a sense of increased stability in the turn leading to a more pronounced feeling of that "on rails" quality compared with the OEM links. Additionally, it was now possible to enter curves at a somewhat higher speed than previously (and maintain that speed throughout the turn) with the same feeling of security, undoubtedly due to the greater stability. I don't know how the increased stiffness of the MSP link bushings exactly contribute to these effects but I'm confident about the differences I experienced. I would definitely suggest that those who already have the other MSP suspension components' kits also consider purchase of these links. The cost is minimal and the benefits are obvious - definitely a worthwhile mod.

        Overview of my Suspension Mods to Date
        Some of you know my intention was to build a daily driver that is both fun to drive yet suitably comfortable for long trips. I believe I've achieved these goals. Starting with an already good handling car, the addition of the MSP suspension components have transformed it into a really excellent-handling, fun-to-drive machine. At the same time, despite the overall increase in suspension stiffness, coupled with the 45 aspect ratio tires, the ride is definitely very firm but not harsh. Now I realize that this factor is a highly subjective one but both my wife and son agree that the ride is quite acceptable even on long trips. I seem to have lucked out here.

        Well, the only thing that remains is to replace the front upper strut mounts with the MSP versions. If that ever happens I'll report back to you my findings.

        Happy Motoring!
        Last edited by goldstar; 04-29-2010, 11:38 PM.
        02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
        MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
        MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
        Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
        MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
        Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
        Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
        Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
        Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
        Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
        Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
        Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
        Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

        Comment


          #19
          Rear Stabilizer Bar Bushing Maintenance

          In December 2007, a rubbing, squealing noise started emanating intermittantly from my rear suspension. I assumed this was the beginning of the dreaded MSP clunk (presumably due to the pronounced inboard location of the stabilizer bar mounting points). Although the dreaded clunk never developed, the rubbing noise persisted so I knew it was time for bushing inspection. Because it was largely intermittant, I decided to wait for warm weather before checking things out. Actually, I've nothing to complain about since I installed the MSP rear bar in November 2004 (along with the modified crossmember and the latest bushings), and the assembly had been silent until then. That's ~ 3 years before the noise appeared - not bad.

          In May 2008, after lifting the rear of the car and placing it on jackstands, I attacked the stabilizer bushing bracket mounting bolts and found, to my surprise, that they were loose. Holy cow, I know when I installed them that I used the correct factory torque specs (32-44 ft/lbf; 44-60 N-m) so I concluded that my frequent hard cornering, coupled with the inboard mounting, puts a considerable strain on the bar that perhaps tends to loosen the mounting bolts over time.

          Once the bushings were removed, it was obvious that they were dry although the bushings themselves did not appear worn, as far as I could tell. Now, what grease to use to lube them up? Aha! Why Energy Suspension bushing grease of course, which I'd already obtained. Why? Because a number of Protege enthusiasts had said it was the bees's knees, that's why. After lubing the bushings I buttoned things up and went for a test drive. The result: a totally silent rear suspension and the knowledge of another job well done.

          I don't remember what brand of grease I used for the original installation. I obtained the grease from the friend of mine who helped me with the installation, but he doesn't remember the type either. Unfortunately, that data is lost in the mists of time.

          Update on Bushing Maintenance
          Sadly, about a week later the noise started to come back again; the usual rubbing sounds and groans. I concluded that contrary to my initial inspection from which I deduced that the bushings didn't need replacement, in fact the bushings were too worn for continued use. I guess that's not surprising after ~ 3.5 years of service.

          When I took things apart the first time to do the grease job, I didn't have replacement bushings lying around, and wanting to quickly finish the job I guess I just hoped the bushings were still good, and when I checked them out I saw what I wanted to see. So now I had to do the job all over again.

          If you're going to do a job, do it right the first time.

          I ordered two new bushings from my Mazda dealer (part no. BN7H-28-156E). They cost US $43 for the pair + $3 state theft.

          After obtaining the new stabilizer bar bushings from the dealer, I drove home, let the exhaust system cool down, supported the car, removed the old bushings and replaced them with the new ones. As before, I liberally greased them with the Energy Suspension bushing grease.

          Then, I went for a road test. Not only was the noise totally gone, but the car rode more smoothly, and handled somewhat better with increased stability in turns. This was particularly noticeable in fast 90 deg turns! Obviously, as the bushings progressively wore out, there must have been a slow degradation in handling performance over time, gradual enough to escape my attention.

          Those of you with MSP suspensions might also want occasionally to check the condition of your bushings to maintain optimal handling performance.

          This time, I think I've done the job right.


          Happy Motoring!
          Last edited by goldstar; 04-27-2010, 04:21 PM.
          02 DX Millenium Red - The Penultimate Driving Machine
          MP3 Strut Tower Bar kit; Cusco Front Lower Arm Tie Bar
          MSP Springs, Struts, Stabilizer Bars, Trailing Links, #3 Engine Mount
          Kartboy Stabilizer Bar Bushings; Nyloil Shifter Bushings; Red Line MT-90 Gear Oil
          MP3 Shifter, Knob and Aluminum Pedal Set
          Suvlights HD Wiring Harness; Osram Night Breaker H4 Bulbs; Exide Edge AGM Battery
          Summer: 5Zigen FN01R-C 16 x 7" Wheels; Yoko S.drive 205/45-16s
          Winter: Enkei OR52 16 x 7" Wheels; Falken Ziex ZE-912 205/45-16s
          Modified OEM Air Intake; Racing Beat Exhaust System; Techna-Fit SS Clutch Line
          Denso SKJ16CR-L11 Extended Tip Spark Plugs; Magnecor Wires
          Power Slot Front Brake Rotors; Techna-Fit SS Brake Lines; Hawk HPS Pads
          Red Line Synthetic Engine Oil; C/S Aluminum Oil Cap
          Cyberdyne Digital Gauges: Tach; Ambient Air Temp; Voltmeter

          Comment


            #20
            *rear strut removal*

            Hi, I'm looking for some "how to" information. I need to gain access the top of my rear struts; on a 1999 SE model.

            I haven't been able to find the top bolts yet, I took the trunk lining out and I'm looking in the back seat, now, but the plastic molding isn't coming out.....any one done this before? Thanks

            Comment

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