My Question is What is the purpose of this Fuel pressure regulator Control Solenoid Valve. It's mounted on the side of the engine behind the distributor. Mine is missing and almost ready to install my 1.8L BPT GTR engine into my MX3. Would i be able to eliminate it by just connecting the two vacuum lines together so the fuel pressure regulator sees full vacuum all the time? Or Can i get a solenoid valve from another mazda model thats easier to get then a GTR one.
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Fuel Pressure Regulator Control solenoid Valve (GTR)
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This valve was meant to help restarting a hot engine. It raise the fuel pressure for an amount of time, when restarting, to enrich the fuel mixture. The GTR engine is some kind of low compression ratio (8.2:1) and if you're using a high octane grade fueling, it's more resistant to pressure and firing.
You can disable it, the worst it could do is to take 3-4 sec. before starting. There's 2 kinds of fuel pressure regulators. First is a 2 nipples vacuum that I mostly saw on 92 GT-R and the second is a one nipple vacuum like the one I got on my 93 GT-R familia.
I removed mine when I installed MS.
If you want to disable the check engine light, open the ECU (whatever the one you got) and cut "1E" contact, this will make your light to never go on.
Hope this help-1993 Familia GT-R, 3" stainless exaust, 0.100" oversize Supertech pistons, ported and polished head, "hemi" style combustion chamber, Supertech 1mm oversize valves, megasquirt, 880cc low-z, MSD HVC, custom SS ramhorn turbo manifold, GT3076R ar.63, 25psi, 3" SS custom exhaust. Soon to be MS3X, COP and 28psi!
-2008 Mitsubishi Evolution X MR, AEM turbo inlet system, 3" magnaflow exhaust.
-2006 Pimped Grand Caravan 3.8L GT40...I'm kidding, it's stock
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^ This is correct. I'd like to add that it is not just for starting the motor but also for idling and low load conditions when the motor is heatsoaked and has been restarted. The intake air temp sensor (IAT) reads artificially high when the engine has been shut off and restarted a short time after due to the high underhood temps and no airflow around the sensor. This causes the ECM to deliver less fuel causing the engine to run too lean until enough air passes around the IAT to bring it down to normal temperatures. So, the ECU uses this solenoid to allow the FP regulator to see atmospheric pressure instead of vacuum pressure increasing fuel pressure to overcome the momentary lean conditions on a hot restart.
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i ditched mine from day one, and have never had a problemEscort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts
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the service manual is describing the 2 port style which i have never seen an example of in real life.Escort GTR -- 11.87 @ 117.6 mph -- 320 HP / 325 Ft. Lbs. @ 23 PSI
... The first FWD BG with a Toyota E153 transmission conversion in the USA!
Looking for BP x Toyota E153 adapter plates? PM me or contact me on Facebook: Riel Performance Parts
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ya just plug a vacuum to the regulator.-1993 Familia GT-R, 3" stainless exaust, 0.100" oversize Supertech pistons, ported and polished head, "hemi" style combustion chamber, Supertech 1mm oversize valves, megasquirt, 880cc low-z, MSD HVC, custom SS ramhorn turbo manifold, GT3076R ar.63, 25psi, 3" SS custom exhaust. Soon to be MS3X, COP and 28psi!
-2008 Mitsubishi Evolution X MR, AEM turbo inlet system, 3" magnaflow exhaust.
-2006 Pimped Grand Caravan 3.8L GT40...I'm kidding, it's stock
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I now have an Escort GT. It recently stranded me on the highway. I am getting a code 25 for this valve.
I notice that the valve's 2 prong wiring harness is disconnected. I would guess that this was done by the previous owner.
The car won't presently start and I am trying to rule this out as the cause.
If everything else was connected besides this harness, would the car still start?
I think it should. I reconnected it and it made no difference...the car still wouldn't start.
Any ideas?
Thanks!93 EGT 5M, Bimini Blue
132k miles, DD only
0w20, EG Fram Oil Filter for Probe 2.5L, Magnetic Drain Plug, ebay cone filter, 03 Protege Rotors, moog sway bar end-links on rear sway bar, mx3 seats, Power Sunroof, Miata Valve Cover Bolts, Gatorback Belts, Timing *14 on 87 Oct, Autolite 3924 @ .043 - 35 mpg at 67 mph (95% highway driving) with A/C and headlights on. Untested for fuel economy: Sylvania EcoBright 9004, .717 5th gear with D6 ATF, NGK wires, 195/65/15 Kumho LRR 4 wire tps
Former Car: 92 Protege DX 5 spd.
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Originally posted by dx92beater View PostI now have an Escort GT. It recently stranded me on the highway. I am getting a code 25 for this valve.
I notice that the valve's 2 prong wiring harness is disconnected. I would guess that this was done by the previous owner.
The car won't presently start and I am trying to rule this out as the cause.
If everything else was connected besides this harness, would the car still start?
I think it should. I reconnected it and it made no difference...the car still wouldn't start.
Any ideas?
Thanks!Cincinnati, ohio Bengals for life
"Who Dey"
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Originally posted by bomdoutscort View PostYou need to start a new thread in the escort section and also check your timing belt.93 EGT 5M, Bimini Blue
132k miles, DD only
0w20, EG Fram Oil Filter for Probe 2.5L, Magnetic Drain Plug, ebay cone filter, 03 Protege Rotors, moog sway bar end-links on rear sway bar, mx3 seats, Power Sunroof, Miata Valve Cover Bolts, Gatorback Belts, Timing *14 on 87 Oct, Autolite 3924 @ .043 - 35 mpg at 67 mph (95% highway driving) with A/C and headlights on. Untested for fuel economy: Sylvania EcoBright 9004, .717 5th gear with D6 ATF, NGK wires, 195/65/15 Kumho LRR 4 wire tps
Former Car: 92 Protege DX 5 spd.
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