4WD Caliper install and work log

[1st Gen]

I had been posting this in my work log but it's turned into such a project in itself that I made a new thread for it.

The car is a 1990 Protege 4WD and I've been in the process of restoring it. Part of that process has been to replace all the brake calipers and disks. I thought I was going to upgrade to some SS brake lines too but found the rear ones aren't available according to CorkSport. I just cleaned up my OEM ones as best as I could with some 1200 grit emery paper and a wire brush. They're still definitely scaly but better. Putting duct tape on the back of the emery paper gave it a nice stiffness that made it easier to work with. I was pretty timid about over doing it with the sand paper but think it turned out well I think. I blew off all the debris with some compressed are and cleaned the line as best as I could. So far so good.

The E brake doesn't work so I'll have to take a look at that. I kind of wish I had taken the time to install the LSD while I had it all apart but it's such an unknown and I just want to get this rig rolling.

You can't really see it in these pics but the struts are shot. When I pull it apart for the new springs and struts, probably next spring, I'll toss that rear end in there. No worries.

Front bakes are next.

Edit-Any guesses how much brake fluid this is going to take?
I think I found some lines too. It's a later thing now though.
The Tire Rack

[1st Gen]

I didn't take a pic of the cracked like 4ell front brake line. No need. The front lines are easy and cheap to replace so I'll take care of that tomorrow. If all goes well, I might try and get the axles in tomorrow too. We'll see.
I didn't get the backing plates for the front pads. I would have though that it would come with the pads I bought but nothing. The manual says I'm supposed to put the brake grease in between the piston and the pad but with out that plate, I'm not doing it.

[1st Gen]

reserved 01

[1st Gen]

reserved 02

[92_2_fast]

Just a bit of advice: you should lube all moving parts. Pull the sliders out (the insert that the mount bolt goes through) and lube it with either brake part grease or simply anti-seize. The two pins that hold the pads should also ble lightly coated. Lubricating the back of the pads just help to eliminate extra brake noise. I hopee this info is usefull. Oh and as far as the amount of brake fluid, buy a liter bottle or something about as much. I would suggest either DOT 4 or a full synthetic. Ford racing makes a nice fluid. If you convert to something other than DOT 3 than make sure to remove the resevoir from the master cylinder and clean it with brake cleaner. Than run as much fluid through the system until you are 100% sure you have all the old stuff out. DOT3 and 4 don't mix.

[me109]

I'm running SS lines on mine. They are the regular 2wd rear disc ones from Corksport. They work just fine.

[SgtRauksauff]

those 'backing plates' are nothing more than anti-squeal shims that limit some NVH. completely un-needed, unless a little noise under heavy braking bothers you. I only use them when they're pre-adhered to the pads. They affect the FUNCTION of the brakes exactly ZERO.

I'd recommend the highest-boiling-point fluid you can find. Flush the entire system.

--sarge

[Lex]

It's looking good. Is it going to be running for the winter?

[1st Gen]

It's looking good. Is it going to be running for the winter?

I don't know yet, I'm running out of both time and money. I have a house and yard that needs attention desperately and my sons fafsa awards have yet to come through. (Class started yesterday and his rents due tomorrow) It's starting to rain more and more often now too.

It's getting close though if I can stop agonizing about things like brake lines. If I was true to my priorities, I would have been down to the parts house and gotten some regular lines coming in. My main obstacle now is the exhaust and I don't need that to be able to get it in the garage.

I sure am glad that I went new on those calipers. When I got to looking at how rusted and messed up they were, I realized it would have been a nightmare trying to make them work right. I forget who gave me that advice right now but thanks loads.

Thanks for asking.

[1st Gen]

Ok, got the back yard mowed, pick up is all loaded up for a trip to the dump, need to trim hedges and clean the gutters still. Eh, it's not so bad after all. Fafsa is coming. It's just a wait now. I'm waiting on the new axles anyway so no biggy.

Got a little work done this week. Nothing earth shattering, but important non the less.

Blew the hard lines out with compressed air. Cleaning these lines would have been hard to do without an air compressor so I'm glad I had one. I had to disconnect all the hoses so I could do this but I feel better about the lines not having a bunch of cruddy fluid in them. There's going to be a little contamination from the old fluid still but since I'm using the same fluid, Dot 3, I can't imagine that it's going to matter much.

Got the new front brake lines installed. It was easy enough to do but I had to wait until I blew out the old lines so it was a bit of a mile stone.

Got brake grease on all the calipers moving parts being careful not to get any on the disk or the pads.

Picked up a big bottle of Dot 3 brake fluid. I think all I have left to do is install the front disks and calipers and I can pressurize the system again. I'm a bit nervous at this since I sure don't want to do it again but I can't see that I've missed anything.

When I installed the rear disks, I sprayed them with brake cleaner washing off the protective coating that comes on it. As a consequence, I'm getting a little surface rust now. Nothing serious but I'd rather not have it at all. When I go to install the fronts, I'm going to leave that coating on and wait until I'm ready to put the car on the ground before I spray them.

[92_2_fast]

A littlesurface rust is no big deal. This can happen just from letting the car sit over night when it rains. If you mount the brake pads onto the rotors and don't have them clean first, than you run the risk of the oil getting absorbed into the pads.

[bent]

looking good! nice to see another AWD pro in the NW. We even have the same color! where did you get your calipers from and how much? I just put in some new rear pads on mine and need to adjust the E-brake as well.

[Ace]

If you haven't put the fluid in yet I would get some DOT 5.1 fluid, Its synthetic and has a boiling point of 585*F. Dot 3 is 401*, Dot 4 is 446*, Dot 5 is 500*
Dot 5 brake fluid is a silicone based fluid, You shouldn't mix DOT 5 with any other brake fluid. It's got a purple color to it so it's easy to distinguish. It doesn't mix with the other Polyglycol fluids, it seperates like oil and water. After just taking a brakes course in college I would recommend using 5.1 for its great characteristics. Also, technically since 3,4, and 5.1 are Polyglycol they can be mixed with the only side effect being a lower boiling point. In a pinch you can mix 5 with the others but it's not recommended.

Now you may think, you don't really need anything special but when your brake fluid boils and your pedal goes to the floor you'll wish you had spend the few extra bucks on the better fluid. Regular everyday braking gets up to about 300 degrees. So if you plan on driving the car you really need something better than dot 3.

[1st Gen]

If you haven't put the fluid in yet I would get some DOT 5.1 fluid, Its synthetic and has a boiling point of 585*F. Dot 3 is 401*, Dot 4 is 446*, Dot 5 is 500*
Dot 5 brake fluid is a silicone based fluid, You shouldn't mix DOT 5 with any other brake fluid. It's got a purple color to it so it's easy to distinguish. It doesn't mix with the other Polyglycol fluids, it seperates like oil and water. After just taking a brakes course in college I would recommend using 5.1 for its great characteristics. Also, technically since 3,4, and 5.1 are Polyglycol they can be mixed with the only side effect being a lower boiling point. In a pinch you can mix 5 with the others but it's not recommended.

Now you may think, you don't really need anything special but when your brake fluid boils and your pedal goes to the floor you'll wish you had spend the few extra bucks on the better fluid. Regular everyday braking gets up to about 300 degrees. So if you plan on driving the car you really need something better than dot 3.

Good information but a little late. It will add value to my work log which is something I think is important, especially the way you break it down so it's easy chew.

Thanks. Filed away for future reference.

[1st Gen]

Got em painted finally.
Took a wire brush to the surface rust then wiped it all down. Masked off the areas I didn't want painted and shot em. I took two paper towels, one soaked in lacquer thinner and one dry, then cleaned the disks as best as I could. I should have shot them before I put them on but it turned out okay.

Edit-On looking at the pics, I may go back and touch them up a bit.